I guess perhaps my method is too complicated, but it always works even on the most stubborn dovetailed sights as on rusted milsurps and crazy tight commercial guns.
Yes I've moved a ton of them by the 'Hold it down against the work bench or shooting bench' method as well,,and it does work if the sight isn't overly tight in it's dovetail (and they shouldn't be).
I've used the method w/o any help holding the gun in position too.
But a stubborn one, or one that's never seen moved before,,I'll wait to get at it with a vise available.
Having no idea here what the OP is up against here,
I opt to advise the OP for a better set up to avoid any damage.
I have no idea how tight S&W runs those small dovetail sights into position. Maybe they are easy to push around, I don't know.
A sight that refuses to move to a misguided punch strike to the gun resulting from what was supposed to be rigidly against the bench and wasn't isn't pretty & not easy to cover up.
..and it isn't necessary.
If you have a lot of experience doing this kind of stuff, and feel confident with the (I'll call it) free hand method,,then do it.
Both methods work, the difference is only in the experience and skill of the person swinging the hammer and holding the punch (and the gun).
It's not a big deal,,but neither is removing and replacing a simple screw.
But look at the nightmares this causes around the hobby and business.
Want to see how they adj dovetail type bbl sights in the Factory Ranges??
The the shooter wacks the sight with a plastic mallet while still sitting in their shooting position.
Maybe that's a better option....
We take much time and effort to buy and or grind the correct screwdriver or pin punch for working on these beauties.
Why not take an extra few minutes to cinch the gun up in a vise securely so there's no vibration or movement.
You don't need an assistant to hold the gun.
You don't need to remove the cylinder as it is outside of the grip of the vise jaws.
Pistol grips can stay in place as well.
That's about all I can say.
