Cracked frames...

I'm beginning to think that an over torqued barrel is an over torqued barrel. And they don't seem to be guilty of it very often, but its just often enough to be aggravating beyond all belief... I do fully believe the post about non ferrous metal fatigue. Perhaps I should just man up and carry my 640. I would just so much prefer the ease of that Airweight.
 
I do not believe the cracking is due to fatigue. For fatigue to occur there must be a reversal of stress across the axis of the component which would not occur at this location. Rather, the barrel is tightened in the frame raising the stress level to higher than that for which it was designed. Upon firing a round there will be a rapid stress increase from barrel to frame which could initiate a crack at a stress riser. One must remember that metals are non-homogeneous which can result in stress risers and that microcracks are common. Repeated firing would cause a crack to propagate to the point where it becomes visible to the naked eye.
 
I noticed the discussion has been about AirWeight aluminum frames. What about AirLite aluminum/scandium alloy frames...any issues there?

If the AirLite frame is indeed stronger (should be seeing they are rated for .357's), why not spend the extra money for an M&P340 for instance rather than a 442. Just shoot .38+P's in it and have some peace of mind....

Yes, there have been issues with some AirLite J-frames as well. Here's a recent thread on the subject: http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-revolvers-1980-present/186384-340pd-cracked-frame.html
 
Glock guy, if I were you, I'd keep that Model 38....don't dump a perfectly good Bodyguard just because someone else's cracked.

I agree 100%. I wouldn't even consider getting rid of a perfectly good gun--especially one as nice as a Model 38--just because a tiny fraction of similar guns had a problem.
 
My 37 air weight has been through hell and back with no signs of cracking. Myself, I have only shot standard pressure .38 specials through it. The overall gun is a mess, but tight and accurate with no spitting of lead and great timing.
Peace,
gordon
Now I'm paranoid, gonna be worried to death every time I shoot it! It's gonna crack, I just know it. It's gonna blow up right when my life depends on it. (not really)
 
340 PD Cracked Frame

Purchased a new 340 PD back in 2006, I put in the safe where it had remained, I continued to use my 640, I read a couple of years ago of cracked frames being reported on the 340 PD, took it out of the safe, looked it over pretty good, not cracked. Last month I took it out to look it over after reading a thread on cracked frames, there is was cracked bigger than life, safe queen never fired. S&W replaced the frame, they just transferred the parts to the new frame. In my case firing had nothing to do with the crack. Asked for a no lock frame, no such luck !!!!

Best John
 
Hi:
IMHO cracked frames causes are the result of the manufacturers attempts to turn out as smaller, lighter,and powerful weapon for the CCW market.
Back in the "Day" (yet another old time tale) if you wanted a more powerful weapon, you went to a larger caliber/weapon. (all steel and wood).
Now you can get a large/powerful weapon that weighs the same (almost) as a all steel .32/.38. Yet the ammo keeps getting more powerful and the weapons keeps getting smaller and lighter.
 

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