crimson trace on a 637

mydogtaz

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i just bought a crimson trace for my 637,(not sure why),but that being said ,i installed it,have not shot it yet,but it seems uncormfortable compared to the grips i had before.my question is,are crimson trace really necessary? do they really help that much?i never in all my shooting life needed them,but my older friends say they are the greatest thing since sliced bread.need opinions,should i sell or keep??????????????.............sidenote,i just got this gun las month.ihave not had a chance to shoot it yet.
 
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I guess the first question to you would be: What model did you get? Crimson Trace offers three different models for JFrame pistols (105/305/405) each with particular characteristics... We can go from there.
 
I have 405s on my 637 and I think they are just as good as the factory grips; slightly thinner and no longer. As to whether the CT grips are necessary depends on how you want to use them. I consider them both an aiming aid as well as a deterrent effect.
 
they are the lg105's .it's just where my finger catches the button.just doesn't feel right.i 've read on some other threads where they were not always necessary to use.like i was saying,iv'e never had one on a handgun,so i don't know what or how helpful they would be,or if i really need it at all.
 
I had them at one time on a kimber 1911. They were a good training aid in breathing exercises/trigger pull.
But you need to remember that since the laser is mounted on the side of the gun, once you zero it in at a specific yardage, any shot you take beyond that set yardage will be off not only by elevation but by windage as well.

Not meant for pin point accuracy if your yardage varies.
Not a substitute for target sights or learning to point-shoot.

Great if you plan on firing at a target without lining up the regular sites (hip shooters???).
Just watch the dot and fire.
I wasn't sure that they made me a better shooter.

I'm perfectly happy with the tried and true sight systems on my Smiths.
 
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CT

I agree with Safearm, Ihe CT's are available in different sizes for the j-frames and costly if you only want one for plinking. I have one on my 442 which is used as a utility weapon (car gun, HD and occasionally ccw) for me and serves well in that capacity. The CT's are great little sights and do very well on the j-frames.
Jim
 
I just installed my first pair on a model 49 .
They are perfect on a nightstand gun as they They work in the dark and instantly relay the message you meen business.

Placing a red dot on an uninvited intruder is his "Warning shot"....
 
I have Crimson Trace grips on three handguns, and would not consider buying a handgun that Crimson Trace did not make a set for. You may consider me sold on them. I have the LG305 Crimson Trace grips on my 637. When I bought the revolver eight years ago, they were the only model available. As someone pointed out, there are now three models. Each has its own set of characteristics. The primary advantage of the LG105 set is price. The second advantage is enhanced concealability due to its shortness. It has several disadvantages. First it is made of hard polymer and does not cover the backstrap, so it will kick like a mule. Second, I at least find that, due to the shortness of the 105 grip, my pinky has no place to go, which adds to the controllability problems. The LG305 grips (that I have) has two advantages. First, it is made of rubber and covers the backstrap, thus providing some (but not all that much) protection from recoil. Second, it is long enough to provide room for my pinky. On the minus side, its full length detracts somewhat from concealed pocket carry for those who wear tight-fitting trousers (but not for those who wear slacks as I do). It also is a third more expensive than the 105 set. The third model is the LG405. Its primary feature is a sort of shock absorber high up on the backstrap, right where I tend to create, and pop, a blister if I don't put a bandaid on the web of my hand. It costs as much as the 305s, and also has no place for my pinky.

Since you haven't yet fired your 637 Airweight, you have an experience coming. Many, including me, find it punishing to shoot more than twenty rounds at a session. Then there is going to be the shock of watching that red dot jerk all over the target. That is YOU doing it, not the laser. For the first time, you will see just how bad you are. For many, that is too much, so they quit and thereafter have nothing good to say about laser sights. I was discouraged at first, but stuck with it. I now have the pleasure of watching a black hole appear in the target where the red dot used to be. I still practice with iron sights as well, but in a home/self defense situation (which is what I practice for) I would use the lasers.

Cordially, Jack
 
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I installed a set of 405's on my 640 and was very happy with the results. For the pinky finger thing just curl it tight under the pistol butt. There is a learning curve with laser sights, don't chase the dot on the target; try to ignore your regular sights when using the dot and vice versa. And as with all small pistols hang on tight, loose holds hurt.
 
thanks guys for the insight,i need to go this week and test drive it at the range.we'll give a range report later..................
 
Another point you guys skipped over is some of the newer models have an on-off switch on the bottom. It allows you to just turn off the thing if its not wanted. The alternative is to pull the batteries. (you can move them to the recess on the off side, or carry a spare set there. The big ugly screws they provide can be opened by almost any screwdriver or maybe a worn out dime. (you can make one of those in a pinch by putting it on the concrete and scuffing both sides for a short time. :) )

I had a real beef with CT years ago. I bought a set with a clear factory defect. The epoxy or potting compound they used to secure the laser to the grip was pushed out (or they used way too much.) As a result, when I tightened the grips down, the dot tended to move toward the right. The adjustment screw didn't have enough travel to bring it back to where the gun bore pointed. The problem was they had the lousiest service department on the planet at the time. The only recourse I had was to return it to the dealer where I got it. I was in Kentucky, but I bought it in Salt Lake. The 1600 mile trip wasn't practical for the next Crossroads show.

I went round and round with them on the phone. They wouldn't pass me up to anyone with a brain (I concluded there might not be such a person at their business.)

So my approach was two pronged. First, I just got out my handy dandy Dremel tool and ground the offending excess off. A little at a time until it was the same height as the surrounding plastic. Then I swore to trash the company every time I saw a post that raved about the company. I did it double when anyone called into question my comments about their customer service. They all swear now they've corrected the problem.

As for usefulness of the product, once you get it correctly aligned so it hits pretty much where you want it, you can really do the job on other shooters when you're out plinking at dusk. Good for watermelons and tomato's. Can's are dead meat.

A workable initial setting for the dot is just aim the gun across the room or basement, maybe 30 feet or so. Then move the red dot to where your iron sights point. Not exact, but a great starting point. If you're recoil sensitive, use 148gr wadcutters. A good, light load. When you get it to where it puts them where you want them (usually a few 5 shot strings), then test that same setting using any carry ammo you're in love with.
 

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