Here you go, 1 blue extractor rod for the model 36.
SMITH & WESSON : EXTRACTOR ROD, 2" BARREL, BLUE - World's Largest Supplier of Firearm Accessories, Gun Parts and Gunsmithing Tools
and one for a nickle pated model 36.
SMITH & WESSON : EXTRACTOR ROD, 2" BARREL, NICKEL - World's Largest Supplier of Firearm Accessories, Gun Parts and Gunsmithing Tools
Now a few notes.
One, the thread for the extractor rod was changed from a standard Right Hand thread to a Left Hand thread, I believe in 1959 but don't hold me to that, I'm not great with dates. The serial number of your gun can narrow down the date of production so you can make sure that your particular model 36 has a Left Hand thread. If it's an earlier gun with a Right Hand thread, you will probably have to post a notice in the Wanted to Buy sub-forum because they are long out of production.
Two, they are not difficult to change out but getting the thread started can be a bit fussy. If the extractor rod starts to bind within one to one and a half turns, DO NOT force it because you have it cross threaded. What I have found works best is to turn the rod in the unscrew direction while pushing it against the extractor star. At some point you will feel a very slight "click" as the male thread drops past the starting point of the female thread. When you feel this "click" it will then thread in freely with light finger pressure. BTW, it does take some time to get a feel for this, on my first attempt it took me at least 45 minutes. Half that time was spent figuring out about reversing the direction until I felt it "click" in. Now, it's almost automatic and takes me less than 30 seconds.
Third, you have to protect the pins that locate the extractor star in the cylinder by using empty fired casings. Take 5 empty casings and load them into the cylinder when breaking the threads loose or tightening the extractor rod down. BTW, you want fired casings because that are swelled to the diameter of the chambers and provide a tighter fit.
Fourth, an old worn out leather belt folded over the knurling and pinched between pliers will permit you do loosen or tighten the extractor rod without any risk of maring the knurling.
Fifth, DO NOT use locktite on the threads, it will just create an absolute nighmare if you ever have to remove the extractor rod. These use VERY fine pitch thread and will not work loose when properly tightened.
Sixth, it is a very fine pitch thread and it can be stripped if you try and tighten it too much. What I have done is to use my hand to hold the cylinder with my left hand and use how hard I squeeze the cylinder with this hand to create a torque limiting device. It took a bit of trial and error to determine how hard to squeeze (range trips) and what I have found to work is about equalt to a somewhat firm handshake but not one that would cause pain in the person receiving that handshake. Take the cylinder in had with a firm grip and let it slip and that should be tight enough. However, if you find that it shoots loose, use a somewhat firmer grip nest time you tighten it up. If you work up to the point where it won't shoot loose, you won't risk strippng the threads. Point is, it doesn't have to be stupid tight, just tight enough.
Seventh and most IMPORTANT. Remember that it any gun made in the last 50 years it's a LEFT HAND THREAD. So when you go to remove that extractor rod keep it in mind that you have to turn it in the opposite direction as most common screws. If you forget about this, it will mean purchasing a new extractor star in addition to the rod and a trip to the gunsmith to have that extractor star fitted and timed to your revolver.
