Cylinder release frozen

[1echo77]

Did the domed end sheer off? Any chance you can disassemble the ejector rod? I would like to see the entire pin if possible. I've not yet seen one that broke off at the extractor. Not saying it isn't, just curious...

 

[bigggbbruce]

Agreed looks funky... do you know how to disassemble the cylinder(left hand threads)

Here is a video on servicing the yoke area from Power Customs.. notes torque specs and much more..[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XhRvNOCaWXM[/ame]

 

[bigggbbruce]

Best to loosen the strain screw.. not good to have full tension on the internal pins unsupported with the sideplate removed.

In your picture you will see where I circled, the bolt interferes with the hammer unless the center pin pushes it rearward when the cylinder is closed.

The hammer needs to be removed to clean that area. Caution though, plunger and spring in end of bolt can be launched and lost.Gun looks clean doubt it's needed.

 

[Muley Gil]

Make sure you have some empty cases in the chambers before you remove the ejector rod.

 

[Jason Demond]

I was hoping she was just a dirty girl. It sure does look like the tip is broken off. Not something I have ever seen.

 

[DeplorabusUnum]

Did the domed end sheer off? Any chance you can disassemble the ejector rod? I would like to see the entire pin if possible. I've not yet seen one that broke off at the extractor. Not saying it isn't, just curious...

Agreed looks funky... do you know how to disassemble the cylinder(left hand threads)

Here is a video on servicing the yoke area from Power Customs.. notes torque specs and much more..Power Custom - S&W Yoke, Extractor Rod Alingment, & Endshake Correction - YouTube

Best to loosen the strain screw.. not good to have full tension on the internal pins unsupported with the sideplate removed.

In your picture you will see where I circled, the bolt interferes with the hammer unless the center pin pushes it rearward when the cylinder is closed.

The hammer needs to be removed to clean that area. Caution though, plunger and spring in end of bolt can be launched and lost.Gun looks clean doubt it's needed.

1echo77: OK, I did disassemble the cylinder. The ejector rod was sheered off. Looks nothing like the cylinder rod on the 629. I cleaned all the parts and put back together. It's not bent. It springs in and out freely, but what you see sticking out of the ejector is as far as it will come out.

Bigggbbruce: First thing I did after removing the side plate was take out the strain screw and tension rod before removing all the parts. I took them all out and cleaned them. No lost or broken parts. Thanks for the video. I will check it out.

I have ordered a new extractor rod. When it arrives I'll take a picture and compare the two. Thanks for all the help. Much appreciated.

 

[BLUEDOT37]

Cause and effect

I pushed the cylinder release as far forward as it would go, and was able to get it open with a light whack with a plastic mallet.

The ejector rod was sheered off. Looks nothing like the cylinder rod on the 629.

I'm guessing the center pin/rod was originally stuck, either gummed up or rusted, & couldn't be depressed normally.

Then the whack with the mallet sheared the tip of the rod off.

Hopefully nothing else is damaged.

.

 

[Kp321]

Not that it was the problem here, but the last N frame I had in with that problem just had a loose retainer on the thumb piece. It was allowing the thumb piece to tilt rather than push the center rod far enough to unlock.

 

[BigBill]

This is why I use a moly paste or antiseeze instead of gun oil. Gun oil gets sticky as it dries.

 

[K-22]

Locking Bolt

Might also want to put a drop of oil on the spring loaded pin that engages the front of your ejector rod, at the tip. If it is binding, it can also cause the same issue.

Larry

Larry,
That is great advice.
The locking bolt may be gummed up and keeping the ejector rod from moving properly. A little penetrating oil there, may well solve the problem.
Best,
Gary

 

[Walter Rego]

I have had what seemed like a frozen cylinder release on my Smith & Wessons on two occasions. Both times were with recently purchased used guns. The first time, I had cleaned the gun but not detail stripped the cylinder. A couple of days later when I went to the range, I could not open the cylinder as the thumb release just wouldn't move forward. It really blew my mind as the gun seemed ready to go after cleaning it a few days before.

I stood the revolver upright, and dripped a little Kroil on the little spring loaded pin that sticks out of the barrel lug, let it sit overnight and then heated the cylinder up with a hair dryer and got it to open.

What I determined had happened was that in cleaning it, I got just enough solvent around the center pin and extractor that it emulsified the old oil which then dried again and locked everything up. A detail strip revealed that the center pin had what looked like a coat of varnish on it. A cleaning and lube with modern oil fixed that issue.

A few years later, the exact same thing happened with another used gun. That time I knew the cause and the fix. It taught me to always detail strip and thoroughly clean and relube any 50, 60 or 70+ year old used guns that I buy. Some of the moving parts on those old Smith & Wessons were fitted so closely that it doesn't take much in the way of old hardened oils or lubricants to retard or totally resist movement.

 

[DeplorabusUnum]

I have had what seemed like a frozen cylinder release on my Smith & Wessons on two occasions. Both times were with recently purchased used guns. The first time, I had cleaned the gun but not detail stripped the cylinder. A couple of days later when I went to the range, I could not open the cylinder as the thumb release just wouldn't move forward. It really blew my mind as the gun seemed ready to go after cleaning it a few days before.

I stood the revolver upright, and dripped a little Kroil on the little spring loaded pin that sticks out of the barrel lug, let it sit overnight and then heated the cylinder up with a hair dryer and got it to open.

What I determined had happened was that in cleaning it, I got just enough solvent around the center pin and extractor that it emulsified the old oil which then dried again and locked everything up. A detail strip revealed that the center pin had what looked like a coat of varnish on it. A cleaning and lube with modern oil fixed that issue.

A few years later, the exact same thing happened with another used gun. That time I knew the cause and the fix. It taught me to always detail strip and thoroughly clean and relube any 50, 60 or 70+ year old used guns that I buy.

That's a good tip. I have a few now that I need to do that with, although with this particular gun, the center pin was shiny and pristine with no evidence of varnish build-up.

 

[DeplorabusUnum]

Update

The new firing pin arrived from Midway. The crucial end was the exact right size. The long end had to be ground down a couple of hundredths. The tip was indeed broken off.

Fits like a glove and the cylinder locks up tight and releases as it should. The extractor pin was too short to reach the extractor rod release in the barrel lug. Thanks again for all who helped and to armorer951 for the link to a new extractor pin.

 

[BC38]

I'm guessing the center pin/rod was originally stuck, either gummed up or rusted, & couldn't be depressed normally.

Then the whack with the mallet sheared the tip of the rod off.

Hopefully nothing else is damaged.

.

My thoughts exactly. I bet there is a little 3/32" piece floating around somewhere that sheared off and fell out when you whacked it with the mallet.
Definitely needed replacing after that. Hopefully the hole in the recoil shield that the tip of the center pin fits into isn't buggered up. Inspect it closely. You might have to remove some burrs.

 

[DeplorabusUnum]

My thoughts exactly. I bet there is a little 3/32" piece floating around somewhere that sheared off and fell out when you whacked it with the mallet.
Definitely needed replacing after that. Hopefully the hole in the recoil shield that the tip of the center pin fits into isn't buggered up. Inspect it closely. You might have to remove some burrs.

Although possible, I don't believe so. I took everything apart and there was no gum or varnish anywhere on any part. Everything moved freely, and all the springs were fine. The gun wasn't over oiled at all by the previous owner. It was exactly the same after cleaning it as before. Anyway, glad it's back to normal. i will definitely inspect the hole. Thanks again everyone.

 

[Steve St.]

Last night I pulled out my 25-2 to clean it and The cylinder wouldn't open. I pushed the cylinder release as far forward as it would go, and was able to get it open with a light whack with a plastic mallet.

I took off the cylinder to make sure the ejection rod was screwed in tight, and it was. Put it back together and the cylinder still won't open. Can't pull the hammer back. I took off the cylinder release knob and it seems stuck. It will move toward the grips, but will not move all the way forward toward the cylinder.

Anything else simple that I should check before heading to a gunsmith? Also, if I need a gunsmith, anyone know of a good one in western Oregon? Any info greatly appreciated.

I recently bought a very lightly used 27-2 do that had the same problem.

I got it open, by tapping on the release, and disassembled it. The parts inside had small drops of moisture on them. I put all the parts in my cleaning pan and covered them with mineral spirits to clean them. The insides of the frame had gummy residue in it that I feel was the original packing grease.

I cleaned all the nooks and crannies with mineral spirits and removed the spirits with brake parts cleaner. After it dried I lubricated it well and reassembled it. It works smoothly and I am looking forward to getting it to the range.

I was amazed at the lack of ring on the cylinder and the barrel had very little residue in it. I'm betting it hadn't had more than a couple of boxes of shells through it.