Deep scoring under carbon ring in cylinder

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I just picked up a "new" 686 Plus from Turner's Outdoors. For the second time, the "new" revolver they sold me shows a suspicious about of use -- carbon rings in the cylinder, gas rings on the outside, cylinder "drag" line already pronounced, etc. Whatever, I'm not too fussy and I plan to use the gun, so I'd be doing all that myself.

BUT, I go home to clean it and the carbon rings (from .38 I assume) are really dragging on the brass bore brush. I use Hoppes No. 9 and go back and forth, but I keep feeling resistance. Finally, I switch to aturated Q-tips and scrub away until all the carbon is gone. But there is still resistance.

I look, and each cylinder is deeply scored all the way around on the inside where the carbon rings were. I can catch it with the tip of a plastic pic and feel it with a brush or Q-tip. Now that it's clean, the score marks are quite shiny. It looks like a dozen shallow rings cut in shallowly that cut deeper everytime they overlap.

This is wrong, right? I plan to send it in under warranty, but I'd like to have some idea what might have caused it. In particular, I'd like to know if it is possible that it came from the factory this way or if I need to find a more trustworthy store.

Will attach pics when I get home.

EDIT: PHOTOS ADDED. Needed sunlight for photos. They should show the circular scratches inside each chamber of the cylinder about where you'd see the carbon ring from firing .38.
 

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It looks like a dozen shallow rings cut in shallowly that cut deeper everytime they overlap.

I'm not sure exactly where those "rings" are in your cylinder but the factory has been known to send out rough cut throats & forcing cones occasionally.

Are the rings in the throats, closer to the barrel end of the cylinder or are they in the area where the chamber transitions to the throats?

If you can post a picture that would help.

The heavy carbon residue in the chambers doesn't sound like what you'd typically find from the (3) test rounds each revolver usually gets.

.
 
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Pictures would help tremendously. As for a new revolver having already been shot, the factory test fires all firearms before they are packaged for shipping. Generally speaking, S&W will test fire 3 chambers. A very faint turn line on the cylinder is normal. If it is a heavy line, then either the revolver has been dry or live fired a lot or the cylinder stop has a bur on it and is gouging the cylinder.
 
If Turner Outdoors is a brick and mortar place in your area I would be bringing it back to them . In my area the dealer takes care of the problems... What you have is not right and it probably came from the factory with the scored chamber(s). Sounds like it was fired more than a few times to build up a carbon ring also ....That's strange for a "new" gun . Ask them about that too .
Gary
 
Hard to tell without seeing it, but you could be looking at lead build-up. Try scraping a small inconspicuous area with a dental pick or the edge of a blade. If it is lead, some Chore Boy or bronze wool will make short work of it.
 
That's at a point where the bullet does not touch the transition to the throat. It's an area I've seen rough and don't concern myself..
 
Thanks for the comments

To answer some questions, the rings are definitely gouges and not a buildup of lead or carbon. The rings are inside each cylinder about where the carbon buildup from firing a .38 would be (that's what kept me from noticing. The gun had definitely been fired more than 3 times. From the fact that the gas rings were pronounced and all the chambers were filthy, I'd guess at least 50 times.

My concern is two fold: One, how do I get the revolver in the "good as new" condition I paid for? Two, what is going on at this store (Turners Outdoorsman)? Are they taking the new guns out to the range for fun? Is the factory sending out guns in this condition? They keep telling me this is how it came from the factory, but it's getting harder and harder to believe.
 
Seeing that evidence of use I wouldn't have cleaned a thing and would have refused it on the spot. It will be a more difficult issue to resolve now but I'd be having a serious talk with the dealer. It sounds like you were the victim of an unwanted sexual act.
 
My 686 after firing couple hundred rounds or so of .38spl SWC. They smoothed out some after soaking with Hoppes 9 , LSA and .40/44 brush . .357 cases may stick slightly after a few rounds but I'm done by then.
 

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Lead Fouling

jbtrucker,

Your picture looks exactly like mine! So you think it might be lead fouling? I could have sworn it was an indentation, but I guess it's hard to be sure using just a pick.

If that's right, I guess that's (sorta) good news. On the one hand, it definitely means the gun was shot a lot before I got it. On the other, it's at least something I can fix without sending it in to S&W.

I'll figure out a way to double-check whether those lines are grooves or lands and report back tomorrow.

Thanks!
 
If it is lead, a .357 reamer will take care of it. Just turn with your fingers.
The area he is looking at is the charge hole and thus is larger than .357 so a reamer won't help. If the problem area was the free bore, then yes, a reamer would help. S&WChad is spot on when he recommended a Chore Boy, but beware that it isn't one of the copper coated versions.
 
I'm not saying what it is, but I just checked, and all of my 686's have something there. This was the worst and has only had factory 158 FMJ 38sp and .357.

686P-PC.jpg
 
That cylinder has been fired several, maybe even several hundred rounds with .38 Special ammunition. Probably Winchester or Remington 130 grain jacketed ammo. It leaves a very hard and very hard to clean ring at the end of the case. Your gun was not new when you bought it!!
If they won't take it back, perhaps a very large discount equal to a used gun can be negotiated. If the dark spots were gouges in the chamber, i would want a new cylinder from the factory.
 
To remove lead and other buildup in the cylinder of my 686-6. I use flitz non toxic in the bottle. If that is buildup, a piece of cotton cloth use to apply in the cylinder. Should easily remove with out need of scrubbing.

If cylinder is ok then that amount of buildup would tend to indicate it was shot alot and not really a new gun .
 
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