Defective crane/excessive play on my Model 60-14?

[Pef]

I've notice some significant side to side play in my Model 60. It's new, purchased this summer. I've shot about 100 rounds and there is no shaving, so it seems to function just fine. However, the crane/yoke seems to have some play when the cylinder is engaged - more than the crane/yoke of my other model 60, my 686+, and my 629. My 637-2 also has a bit of "yoke play", but not as much as this 60. I though I'd post some pictures to illustrate. I've read a bit on the site, and I know the SW's are known to have some play - from what I have read, the consensus seems to be "If it's not shaving, it's working within spec."

Here's a picture of the crane when I'm not pressing on the cylinder (i.e., it's in its normal position)

Now here is a picture when I'm pressing on the cylinder:

You can see a non-trivial flex/rotation. Same thing can happen when the trigger is pulled and it's locked up. When I release the pressure the cylinder returns to its normal position.

There is slight misalignment when it's flexed, but it's fine when it's in the normal position.

Is this an acceptable condition for Smiths? I ask because this side play seems to be more than my others. I'm not overly concerned - I'm not going to be shooting while pressing on the cylinder of course - on the other hand, if I have a bum crane (or something else), I might as well send it in for repair.

UPDATE 6/6/12: I'm a procrastinator, so I just sent it in a few weeks ago. Call SW today, it was in the mail room shipping back. According to customer service, the replace the center pin, locking bolt, etc. Basically the entire locking mechanism. I'll report back when I recieve it, which should be in the next few days.

Since I've posted this I've purchased several more J-frames. If you are buying new (or used), I urge you to check out the lateral yoke retention - i.e., how much the cylinder moves when in the "locked" position. Smith says some play is expected, but mine was excessive. I have also seen some new j-frames with a similar problem, although not as bad as the one I sent in for repair. Recently I passed on a new 640 because I noticed it also had a very loose yoke. My most recent purchase, a 640 pro, has a nice, tight locked yoke. (But it was the second one I looked at - the first one I passed on inspection, when I noticed the cylinder had a very rough "catch" when closing - I'm not knocking Smith, they made it right, and truth be told the guns I passed on are probably fine - but if you are picky like me, give it a good once over before you put your money down)

 

[Bluelou]

Looks a little to sloppy.I think I would send it back my friend.good luck.

 

[john traveler]

Definitely excessive crane-to-frame clearance for a new, little-fired gun.

In an older M60, it might be caused by a mis-indexed barrel, poorly fit extractor and locking bolt, or by a bent crane.

In your like-new revolver, there is no excuse for that unacceptable sloppy crane fit.

 

[TAROMAN]

Looks like Mickey Spillane owned that one. A trip to the shop is definitely in order.

 

[pinkymingeo]

That's excessive and needs fixing. You'll need to send a revolver with crane problems to Colt, though. S&W revolvers have a yoke.

 

[Pef]

That's excessive and needs fixing. You'll need to send a revolver with crane problems to Colt, though. S&W revolvers have a yoke.

Thanks for the correction I'll call them on Monday. Back to the factor to fix the yoke.... Appreciate the input everyone.

 

[Beachcomber]

Thanks for the correction I'll call them on Monday. Back to the factor to fix the yoke.... Appreciate the input everyone.

When you get it back from S&W I'd be interested in learning what they did to correct this problem???

 

[Pef]

When you get it back from S&W I'd be interested in learning what they did to correct this problem???

Ditto. I called SW today and they are sending me a fed ex shipping label.

So here's something interesting while we all wait. I stopped by my gun club from which I purchased the '60. They had another in the case and I asked to check out the yoke. Sure enough, the other brand new model 60 had a similar "gap" when pressing on the right side of the cylinder. Sitting next to it was a 640. I played with that one, too, and it had the same issue. The guy behind the counter is a revolver type, and he said his model 60 does the same thing. Odd that my old '74 locks up tight (different yoke), as does my 686+ and my 29. Again, they are all different yokes.

Any of you owners of the relatively newer model 60's - if you can do a quick check, I'd appreciate what you find out. You don't need to apply much pressure on the right side of the cylinder to make this happen.

From what I saw of the other models, I'm wondering if this is the norm. What are the odds of three loose yokes on NIB guns in the same shop if they are designed to lock up like the other models?

 

[Pef]

UPDATE 6/6/12: I'm a procrastinator, so I just sent it in a few weeks ago. Call SW today, it was in the mail room shipping back. According to customer service, the replace the center pin, locking bolt, etc. Basically the entire locking mechanism. I'll report back when I recieve it, which should be in the next few days.

Since I've posted this I've purchased several more J-frames. If you are buying new (or used), I urge you to check out the lateral yoke retention - i.e., how much the cylinder moves when in the "locked" position. Smith says some play is expected, but mine was excessive. I have also seen some new j-frames with a similar problem, although not as bad as the one I sent in for repair. Recently I passed on a new 640 because I noticed it also had a very loose yoke. My most recent purchase, a 640 pro, has a nice, tight locked yoke. (But it was the second one I looked at - the first one I passed on inspection, when I noticed the cylinder had a very rough "catch" when closing - I'm not knocking Smith, they made it right, and truth be told the guns I passed on are probably fine - but if you are picky like me, give it a good once over before you put your money down)