Did you get trigger job...how did it turn out?
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THEWELSHM
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My 29-2 has had a trigger job by the previous owner. Probably a Wolf trigger kit? Love it, I had a Ruger done with wolf total cost is talked $65 worth the money in my op
Thewelshm
Thewelshm
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It really costs me nothing because I have done my own work for many years now. The only part that I actually replace is the Rebound Spring. I bought 13 pounders in bulk many years ago and they were under a buck or so each. You can get lighter RB Springs but I dislike tardy trigger returns. There are a few Revolvers that I have gone with lighter RB springs but they get shot 99% single action mode and only at Range.
I do remove burrs, smooth out rough pieces, slightly shorten strain screws, polish certain parts, but never replace Main Springs and NEVER stone the Hammer/Sear engagement surfaces. I also always lean on the side of reliability and don't try to get actions too light. I am more interested in SMOOTH & RELIABLE rather than light and maybe! I do have a few Target ONLY guns that are a bit on the light side but they NEVER see a holster and are ONLY used at the Range for paper punching and competition. I've never had any FTF, but even if I did, I only risk messing up a target or at worst loosing match - not my life.
I have also slicked up a few 1911's but more specialized tooling is required (but readily available from Brownell's). Again - err on the side of caution and safety and SMOOTHNESS, CRISP and CREEPLESS actions are what I strive for.
NOTE:
Any gun I own that has been altered or modified always has a note in the box stating exactly what was done along with the original parts so it can be restored to Factory specs. I never modify original parts and have bought plenty of extra RB Springs and Strain Screws. I also have my share of Hammers, Triggers and Grips that I sometimes will swap out - but the un-altered originals are always in the box.
I do remove burrs, smooth out rough pieces, slightly shorten strain screws, polish certain parts, but never replace Main Springs and NEVER stone the Hammer/Sear engagement surfaces. I also always lean on the side of reliability and don't try to get actions too light. I am more interested in SMOOTH & RELIABLE rather than light and maybe! I do have a few Target ONLY guns that are a bit on the light side but they NEVER see a holster and are ONLY used at the Range for paper punching and competition. I've never had any FTF, but even if I did, I only risk messing up a target or at worst loosing match - not my life.
I have also slicked up a few 1911's but more specialized tooling is required (but readily available from Brownell's). Again - err on the side of caution and safety and SMOOTHNESS, CRISP and CREEPLESS actions are what I strive for.
NOTE:
Any gun I own that has been altered or modified always has a note in the box stating exactly what was done along with the original parts so it can be restored to Factory specs. I never modify original parts and have bought plenty of extra RB Springs and Strain Screws. I also have my share of Hammers, Triggers and Grips that I sometimes will swap out - but the un-altered originals are always in the box.
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A good gunsmith will charge you from $65 to $150 for a good trigger job.
Find someone that's been in business for a number of years and then try some of his/her guns to see what the triggers are like.
I've been using the same gunsmith for 40 years. I trust him. He won't go past a 7 lb trigger and it's light but will bust any primers I use. The last few years I've learned to do my own trigger jobs on my Competition guns and can get them to about 5 lbs with 100 per cent reliablility.
I still have him do my carry guns. My latest work in progress.
Apex Tactical does the best triggers. I've had him do three of my competition revolvers and Randy will set up a 4 - 4.5 lb double action trigger that is 100 per cent reliable if you use Federal primers.
He charges $165 unless his prices have gone up.
Find someone that's been in business for a number of years and then try some of his/her guns to see what the triggers are like.
I've been using the same gunsmith for 40 years. I trust him. He won't go past a 7 lb trigger and it's light but will bust any primers I use. The last few years I've learned to do my own trigger jobs on my Competition guns and can get them to about 5 lbs with 100 per cent reliablility.
I still have him do my carry guns. My latest work in progress.
Apex Tactical does the best triggers. I've had him do three of my competition revolvers and Randy will set up a 4 - 4.5 lb double action trigger that is 100 per cent reliable if you use Federal primers.
He charges $165 unless his prices have gone up.
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kilo charlie
Member
I installed APEX spring kits in my 642 and 640 PRO. Easy, cheap, and makes a world of difference.
joeintexas
US Veteran
I used a local gunsmith here that has a great reputation and he did a fine job on a 1911 that was a little strong. He dropped it to 4.5 pounds and it is silky smooth. It was a few years ago but I think he charged me $65.00.
I am with Chief38.
#1. after some dry firing or use check all the mating surfaces, high spots will show up shiny. Use small hard stones to polish high spots smooth. The rebound slide sides and bottom and where it rides in the frame sometimes need a bit of polishing. Check the safety bar and channel. Hammer and trigger bosses. Just remove any high spots, Little grooves are not a problem and help contain a bit of lube. Any rub marks on side of hammer/trigger where they are rubbing on the frame can usually be fixed with a shim. The hammer rubbing is a double whammy because it adds some friction both to trigger pull and slows hammer and means less power to the firing pin. Carefully remove any burrs on the extractor, NO more. Use something like an Optivisor to see what your doing. Slow and cautious.
I to use a full power main spring, but after everything else is good, I take used brass and just reprime it with CCI magnum primers. Then back the strain screw out 2 turns and see if the gun fires. I play with the strain screw to find out where it starts to cause misfires then turn it in 1/2 a turn and fire a bunch of primers making sure it doesn't miss fire. Once I know it won't missfire, I count how many 1/2 turns till it is tight again. Then remove the screw and measure its over all length. It is a 32 to the inch thread and every .0156 is 1/2 turn. I then slowly remove the appropriate amount from the overall length of the screw leaving the end of the screw just slightly rounded. I always leave it about .01 longer than where I figured. Then reinstall and tighten.
Smooth and reliable is better than light. I have never had a S&W with what I felt was a bad enough single action trigger for a handgun to mess with. Most of them I don't do anything at all to because they are so smooth to start with.
#1. after some dry firing or use check all the mating surfaces, high spots will show up shiny. Use small hard stones to polish high spots smooth. The rebound slide sides and bottom and where it rides in the frame sometimes need a bit of polishing. Check the safety bar and channel. Hammer and trigger bosses. Just remove any high spots, Little grooves are not a problem and help contain a bit of lube. Any rub marks on side of hammer/trigger where they are rubbing on the frame can usually be fixed with a shim. The hammer rubbing is a double whammy because it adds some friction both to trigger pull and slows hammer and means less power to the firing pin. Carefully remove any burrs on the extractor, NO more. Use something like an Optivisor to see what your doing. Slow and cautious.
I to use a full power main spring, but after everything else is good, I take used brass and just reprime it with CCI magnum primers. Then back the strain screw out 2 turns and see if the gun fires. I play with the strain screw to find out where it starts to cause misfires then turn it in 1/2 a turn and fire a bunch of primers making sure it doesn't miss fire. Once I know it won't missfire, I count how many 1/2 turns till it is tight again. Then remove the screw and measure its over all length. It is a 32 to the inch thread and every .0156 is 1/2 turn. I then slowly remove the appropriate amount from the overall length of the screw leaving the end of the screw just slightly rounded. I always leave it about .01 longer than where I figured. Then reinstall and tighten.
Smooth and reliable is better than light. I have never had a S&W with what I felt was a bad enough single action trigger for a handgun to mess with. Most of them I don't do anything at all to because they are so smooth to start with.
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Big Cholla
Member
Good write ups and advise from steelslaver and chief38. A word to the wise: really light trigger pulls are for paper puncher handguns only. A light trigger pull is a liability on a CCW or otherwise self-defense handgun. There have been many unintended shootings of people that deserved to have a gun pointed at them, but did not warrant being shot and then the myriad of problems that come with unintended shootings. Yes, you want a smooth trigger pull, but not a light one. The natural adrenaline surge thruout your body in a self-defense situation will be more than adequate for you to easily pull that 6 to 9 lb. trigger IF required..........
varmint243
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I Bubba my own trigger jobs these days with spring kits and parts kits. I can make an improvement but they really don't compare to my Bill Davis PPC gun or the guns I have had done by my local smith. IMO you can't beat someone with real training and experience. My guns are range guns, they are either loaded and being shot, or unloaded and put away. I wouldn't trust a Bubba trigger job on a carry or SD gun.
My guns are for self defense, not target. Do you recommend a trigger job for self defense snubs?
My guns would be hammerless. The Smiths seem kinda hard with trigger pull. I was looking to improve them. But I want the same reliability as I got with new guns.
Recently I bought a new Ruger LCR .327. It jams right out of the box. Every few pulls the trigger gets stuck. I have to work the trigger to get it to return. The action is also rough, worse than the cheapest revolver out there...I'm done with Ruger.
Snapshots : Photo
I wrote Ruger last week and still have not heard from them. If the Smiths trigger on the snubs will be less reliable with a trigger job then I will leave them as-is.
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CATI1835
US Veteran
I got a trigger job on my 432PD, DAO. Done by Teddy Jacobson, about $200 shipped. I am very happy with it. More detail here:
http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-revolvers-1980-present/446889-update-trigger-job-j-frame.html
http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-revolvers-1980-present/446889-update-trigger-job-j-frame.html
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I've sent an M686+ and an M69 back to S&W for their Master Revolver Action Package for $165ea. Considerable improvement in DA. SA about the same, which is quite good anyway.
I didn't know Smith did trigger jobs. That may be the way I will go.
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What I have described in my above post is really not what I'd call a "trigger job" because as I posted - I NEVER touch the trigger (or hammer for that matter). It is more of an action job. The action is smoothed and while it does get somewhat lighter it is more because the action is getting smoother. Kind of like a worn in machine or engine. All the burrs are gone and resistance is minimized as much as possible but still left reliable.
Any Gunsmith who tells you he will stone a Trigger or Hammer engagement surface - I'd run from!
In answer to your question, I'd do nothing more that what I have posted above which is to de-burr smooth out and replace a Factory weight Rebound Spring with a moderate one (but one that still allows proper and robust trigger return). Shoot the heck out of it - which will also help a great deal! If you are talking about a K Frame Snub the Strain Screw might require a slight shortening but be CAREFUL not to go beyond a reliable solid hit of the firing pin to primer.
If you are not doing this yourself, I'd seek out a QUALIFIED GS. This procedure takes under an hour and is not a big deal kind of procedure.
Any Gunsmith who tells you he will stone a Trigger or Hammer engagement surface - I'd run from!
In answer to your question, I'd do nothing more that what I have posted above which is to de-burr smooth out and replace a Factory weight Rebound Spring with a moderate one (but one that still allows proper and robust trigger return). Shoot the heck out of it - which will also help a great deal! If you are talking about a K Frame Snub the Strain Screw might require a slight shortening but be CAREFUL not to go beyond a reliable solid hit of the firing pin to primer.
If you are not doing this yourself, I'd seek out a QUALIFIED GS. This procedure takes under an hour and is not a big deal kind of procedure.
keithherrington
Member
Performance Center Master Action Job
I've been sending revolvers to the Performance Center for trigger jobs since the mid-90's. By now I've sent 25-30 there for work. With only two exceptions I've been entirely happy with the results, and both problems were corrected by the PC very quickly. However, over the last couple of years a shooting buddy (a S&W trained police armorer) has been doing work for me. Light stoning of the high points as described above, AND careful balancing springs, primarily rebound and mainsprings. My favorite combination has turned out to be a 15 pound rebound spring and a Wolff Factory Weight Power Rib Mainspring. Lighter than stock DA pull but 100% reliable with any primer that I've found, and with a snappy trigger return. Sometimes I can get away with a 14 pound rebound, but ONLY if the action is very smooth.
Keith
I've been sending revolvers to the Performance Center for trigger jobs since the mid-90's. By now I've sent 25-30 there for work. With only two exceptions I've been entirely happy with the results, and both problems were corrected by the PC very quickly. However, over the last couple of years a shooting buddy (a S&W trained police armorer) has been doing work for me. Light stoning of the high points as described above, AND careful balancing springs, primarily rebound and mainsprings. My favorite combination has turned out to be a 15 pound rebound spring and a Wolff Factory Weight Power Rib Mainspring. Lighter than stock DA pull but 100% reliable with any primer that I've found, and with a snappy trigger return. Sometimes I can get away with a 14 pound rebound, but ONLY if the action is very smooth.
Keith
dmy
Member
Questionable trigger job
To answer the OP's original question - $60 to smooth & polish the action and he charged me another $60 to clean the gun. I opted for another $60 to polish the chambers. The much longer version is this:
I had a stock 625-2 with a 10-11# DA trigger and 4.5# SA trigger. I shopped for a good gunsmith in the Northern California Bay Area, but could not get a good recommendation from several LGS or the shooting ranges. Looked online and chose one with several good reviews and no bad reviews. I called him to discuss various options. I was a little hesitant to simply change the mainspring and rebound spring because every thread discussing spring kits included several posts about the gun not going "bang" and having to use Federal primers.
The GS recommended deburring and polishing the action rather than changing the springs which would decrease the DA pull. When I dropped off my gun, I requested and he let me try his M-29 with a similar action job and it was good.
When I picked up my 625, the DA was much smooother and lighter (7 - 8#) and the single action was the same. HOWEVER, I immediately noticed that the trigger had a hitch when it reset. I asked about this and he said to take it out for a test fire. Since that time, I have put 400+ rounds through it. The DA is smooth and getting even smoother, but the reset hitch is becoming worse. It also feels like the DA is now a two-stage trigger because it stages after the cylinder reaches lock up mode just before the hammer drops.
I spoke with my GS after shooting the initial 200 rounds through it and he said shoot it some more and he will be glad to do what it takes to make it right. I certainly plan to give him another chance after I put a few more rounds through it.
My thought is that he certainly had the correct recommendation of smoothening the action rather than installing new springs. Kudos for that. I am also pleased that he is willing to stand behind his work to make it right. I was a little hesitant about $60 to "clean" my gun, but he did a great job. With the exception of the lock-up ring around the cylinder, the gun was spotless without any soot marks and looked like it just came out of the box. My only comment is that he appears to be relatively new at gunsmithing (guestimate of 5 years of experience with his own shop).
IMHO, every competent GS should be able to make a Smith revolver as smooth as silk. It is the equivalent of a good mechanic being able to work on a 350 Chevy engine. It is as basic as it gets. We'll see how it turns out.
To answer the OP's original question - $60 to smooth & polish the action and he charged me another $60 to clean the gun. I opted for another $60 to polish the chambers. The much longer version is this:
I had a stock 625-2 with a 10-11# DA trigger and 4.5# SA trigger. I shopped for a good gunsmith in the Northern California Bay Area, but could not get a good recommendation from several LGS or the shooting ranges. Looked online and chose one with several good reviews and no bad reviews. I called him to discuss various options. I was a little hesitant to simply change the mainspring and rebound spring because every thread discussing spring kits included several posts about the gun not going "bang" and having to use Federal primers.
The GS recommended deburring and polishing the action rather than changing the springs which would decrease the DA pull. When I dropped off my gun, I requested and he let me try his M-29 with a similar action job and it was good.
When I picked up my 625, the DA was much smooother and lighter (7 - 8#) and the single action was the same. HOWEVER, I immediately noticed that the trigger had a hitch when it reset. I asked about this and he said to take it out for a test fire. Since that time, I have put 400+ rounds through it. The DA is smooth and getting even smoother, but the reset hitch is becoming worse. It also feels like the DA is now a two-stage trigger because it stages after the cylinder reaches lock up mode just before the hammer drops.
I spoke with my GS after shooting the initial 200 rounds through it and he said shoot it some more and he will be glad to do what it takes to make it right. I certainly plan to give him another chance after I put a few more rounds through it.
My thought is that he certainly had the correct recommendation of smoothening the action rather than installing new springs. Kudos for that. I am also pleased that he is willing to stand behind his work to make it right. I was a little hesitant about $60 to "clean" my gun, but he did a great job. With the exception of the lock-up ring around the cylinder, the gun was spotless without any soot marks and looked like it just came out of the box. My only comment is that he appears to be relatively new at gunsmithing (guestimate of 5 years of experience with his own shop).
IMHO, every competent GS should be able to make a Smith revolver as smooth as silk. It is the equivalent of a good mechanic being able to work on a 350 Chevy engine. It is as basic as it gets. We'll see how it turns out.
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When I picked up my 625, the DA was much smooother and lighter (7 - 8#) and the single action was the same. HOWEVER, I immediately noticed that the trigger had a hitch when it reset. I asked about this and he said to take it out for a test fire. Since that time, I have put 400+ rounds through it. The DA is smooth and getting even smoother, but the reset hitch is becoming worse. It also feels like the DA is now a two-stage trigger because it stages after the cylinder reaches lock up mode just before the hammer drops.
Something does NOT sound right here........
First off a DA pull of 7 pounds is TOO light (IMHO). Secondly it's virtually impossible for your SA pull to have increased to more than double of what it was stock out of the box (S&W SA pulls are usually under 3.5 pounds - stock)!
I do not know what he did to the Trigger but it sounds like he might have clipped the original Rebound Spring shorter (not recommended) or replaced it with one that is just too light causing a slow and struggling trigger return . Anyway, he said he would make good on his work so see what you get back from him.
You always want work done on a gun to "wear-in" and be perfect after firings, NOT wear-out because the job was brought too close to minimal functioning to begin with.
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jtcarm
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I DIY mine as well. I screwed up a hammer once when I first started out almost 30 years ago, but have always gotten a smoother, lighter DA pull, and without any additional parts. I grind a little off the sides of the mainspring. Not a big fan of tampering with the rebound spring.
I work on the DA only and don't touch the SA sear.
I work on the DA only and don't touch the SA sear.
I'm not really sure why you say this since part of a decent action job does normally require stoning the SA bevel on the 'trigger'. Now of course you NEVER touch the hammer ledge as this is but a few thousandths deep and you'll never get a SA to hold safely and you'll need to buy a new hammer. But stoning the trigger SA bevel is a process taught in all good gunsmithing schools and as far as I know Brownell's still sell stoning fixtures for almost all revolvers and autos especially 1911's. I might add that with a good fixture you can lighten or increase the trigger break poundage - it goes both ways. I've salvaged a decent number of do-it-to-yourselfers triggers using good stone and a fixture. Sharper the bevel edge heavier the break.
Now when I was in business I often turned away guys who walked in and wanted just a TRIGGER JOB but usually there was something else about the guy or the gun that prodded that decision. Anyway if you walk away from any gunsmith who stones a S&W trigger bevel your going to find your options getting pretty thin and I'd say less skilled.
Regards
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