digital scales

My primary scale is Frankfort Arsenal that I got on sale for under $20. My test weights and Ohaus 1010 say it is trustworthy.
I've owned 2 much more expensive digital scales that required continual re calibration and would not hold zero for extended periods of time. I couldn't be happier with the cheap little Frankfort Arsenal scale and I guess many have turned to them since the price of them has almost doubled over the last few years.
 
My Cabela's scale is wonderful after it warms up. Accurate, repeatable and a good value. Have checked it against Metler high price scales and check weights and it comes in on top of them.
 
I bought a Gem-Pro two years ago, the first thing I found out was that it didn't like trickling, the second thing I found out was that it wouldn't weigh the same weight more than once and give the same value.

I returned it.

I guess I got a lemon, but I decided not to chance getting another one.

My Chargemaster works just fine, and I cross check with my 1010 and check weights.

I also have a Micro Touch 1500 that I bought just for weighing bullets n cases n such, and the foolish little thing surprised me with how well it works, must have got a good one.

I have four scales and I cross check them against each other frequently.
 
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Digital scales are a hot topic on every reloading forum you go to. Guys love them and hate them. Beam scales aren't infallible, but they aren't affected by some of the things that can affect digital scales. Digital scales can be effected by battery vs AC adapter use because the adapters have to step the voltage from 120 down to 5 to 9 volts and change it from AC to DC. This process leaves a DC voltage that isn't as clean as battery can provide, especially if the adapter is cheaply made. Also, the adapters can be affected by voltage fluctuations. Very few power companies provide AC at a steady 120 volt average, and the adapter has to be able handle these fluctuations too. And you can't get a cheap electronic scale without a cheap adapter. The electronics in an electronic scale can also be affected by outside electric/magnetic fields, such as those created by the ballasts in fluorescent lighting fixtures. Again, this shows up more in cheap scales, but some higher priced can be affected too. Another problem area with electronic scales are how the scale's platform is mounted in conjunction to the electrical components used to measure and determine the weight. For example, the Dillon scale I have has four plastic posts that are used to transfer the weight from the platform to the inside of the scale. Moving a weight around on the platform will change the weight reading. One last item that will effect an electronic scale is air currents, even those created by the reloader him/herself moving. Because of magnetic dampening, beam scales are less susceptible to these currents.

If all this sounds like I dislike digital scales, let me say I don't. By understanding what can cause them to have problems, you can mitigate those problems. Eliminating the first few problems should be pretty obvious: avoid cheap scales. I've found the same advice holds true in other cheap digital products such as digital micrometers or the popular calibers. These aforementioned products may be close enough for some purposes, such as determining a bolt diameter, but for close work, quality pays, it doesn't cost. That's especially true when we're talking about powder charges. Consistency is a key when using any scale, and electronic units can especially benefit from this. Make sure the scale is level. Avoid placing it anywhere there are vibrations, like next to your press, or air currents, like near a ventilation duct. Again, beam scales are magnetically dampened, so these vibrations and currents will have less effect on them. Check the scale before use with a weight that is as close to the weight you plan to measure. RCBS makes a set of weights that are handy for this. And place charges consistently on the same place of the scale's platform each time. Following these tips will help ensure accuracy of any scale, but are more important for electronic than beam units.
 
I use an RCBS range master 750 digital scale that has always been spot on. I believe it's now discontinued though. With any electronics, let them warm up before you calibrate. The 750 will run on batteries also for portability.

For beams, I use a hornady beam scale. Pretty accurate but I made up a couple tiny teflon inserts that I place between the walls of the scale body and the balance beam, 1 on each side. They keep it centered and makes it very accurate. Thing with using beams is you need to always have your viewpoint the same each time. A little up or down and you read it differently.

In either case, I always throw a tenth or two short and then trickle in to finale.
 
That's news......

That's news about the MTM digital. I'm still of the mind that if you want a digital you'd better get a good one, usable scales starting at $79 on up (and up) so I haven't been able to fork out the dough for now.

When I had access to very fine laboratory scales (a rep came in once a month to check all of the scales in the lab) they were a joy to use. They ran from about $500 to a couple of thousand.
 
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IMO, anyone having "good results" with a cheap FA or sim has been very lucky or you aren't using it enough to see the issues. Drift is the biggest deal with cheap scales, I know, have tried several under $50. Weigh a charge, then remove the pan, wait 15sec & weigh again. Do that 10x, if it is always the same, you are gtg. If that happens for under $100, buy lottery tickets.
 
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Ha Ha Ha Ha.....

Very few power companies provide AC at a steady 120 volt average, and the adapter has to be able handle these fluctuations too.

Oh man, if that's not an understatement. That's like saying that the very best apples don't go into applesauce. Motors here often labor due to the low voltage. When I travel and plug in my hair dryer it almost leaps from my hand because I'm used to it starting up at home with a pu-u-uu-u-u--u-r. I was buying air conditioners for my workplace and kept sending them back saying they were no good because they kept breaking down. I got suspicious and monitored the line. It was running mostly near 180 volts on a 220 line! I didn't tell the people that were supplying the A/Cs. I think power conditioning is a good idea on important electronics. Especially when dealing with gunpowder.


Ok, maybe this is thread drift, but I had to share.:D
 
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