Does every M&P 15-22 need trigger work?

adn

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I am a new 15-22 owner with a question. I just bought a 15-22 with blue bolt and trigger springs serial # DTZxxxx. I have about 500 rounds through it and I would say the trigger is not that bad. The pull is about 6-7 pounds with a little bit of creep. I have done absolutely nothing to the trigger. I know that a little strategic polishing will eliminate the creep, but will replacing the trigger springs with the JP set really make a significant change in my trigger?
 
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It's really a matter of preference, but personally I think it's the best $10 I've spent on my 15-22. I did not have blue springs in mine though, so I can't offer a comparative that would really apply :)
 
I've had the standard springs, blue springs and the JP springs.

The blue springs are only about a pound lighter than the standard and YES the JP springs in my opinion make a nice difference and definitely worth the $10. Add a little polishing and your set.

I just used Flitz on the contact surfaces of the trigger and repeatedly worked the trigger till I gained the results I was looking for. Just take the upper off of the lower and block the hammer with your hand when pulling the trigger each time.
 
+1 on the springs. I also have an older model that did not come with the blue springs, but the JP's reduced my pull noticably. Ranks right up there with a Hogue grip as the best accessories I've purchased so far.
 
+1 on the springs. I also have an older model that did not come with the blue springs, but the JP's reduced my pull noticably. Ranks right up there with a Hogue grip as the best accessories I've purchased so far.

Geez.. I have a Hogue AR grip 'round here someplace that I've never used... might have to poke around and find that thing.
 
straight-shooter-
To polish the hammer/sear do you have to take the firing apparatus apart completely, lift the hammer off the frame (partially disassemble the firing apparatus), or just put a little polish on the hammer surface after pulling the trigger (no firing apparatus disassembly required)with the upper removed?
 
straight-shooter-
To polish the hammer/sear do you have to take the firing apparatus apart completely, lift the hammer off the frame (partially disassemble the firing apparatus), or just put a little polish on the hammer surface after pulling the trigger (no firing apparatus disassembly required)with the upper removed?

I suppose you could smear a little polish in there with a toothpick or something and "work" the surfaces several hundred times... something to do while watching a movie perhaps.

It's really very simple to remove the entire fire control group though. All you need is a 1/8" drift / punch and then you have full access to the surfaces of the sear. A dremel tool with a soft polishing wheel does the trick in just a few minutes. Just make sure you don't grind away at it as you don't want to change the geometry of the surfaces.

And of course while you're got it apart, it's the perfect opportunity to throw in a $10 set of JP springs :)

Check out the instructional videos in the stickied thread.. it's really not hard.
 
Probably every recently made AR15 can benefit from trigger work, the M&P15-22 is no exception. Be especially careful dicking with the sear surfaces, they're only surface hardened and if you cut thru that layer the soft under material will wear rapidly and leave you with a hammer worse than you started.

Removal of the fire control parts is as simple as knocking out the two pins. Hammer first, then trigger. Leave the selector alone. Try the "AR15 10 minute trigger job" while waiting for your JP yellow spring set. Only costs you a little time.

Use a slave pin to reassemble the trigger assembly of your M16 or AR15:

IMG_2009_11_28_0072_s.JPG


IMG_2009_11_28_0073_s.JPG


-- Chuck
 
I just used a tooth pick and smeared some flitz on the contact surfaces and cocked and pulled the trigger about 20 times. Then I re-applied some more flitz again. I went through this routine about 6 times totaling 120 trigger pulls and the gritty feeling of the trigger went away.
 
I know nothing about the AR's, but today I watched impossible shots. Michelac (sp?) was performing his majic with a 15-22. He said the gun was (basically) stock except for the trigger. It had a gold colored trigger. I'm not sure what that means, but it sounded like it WAS NOT a S&W part.
 
good guess:D



I know nothing about the AR's, but today I watched impossible shots. Michelac (sp?) was performing his majic with a 15-22. He said the gun was (basically) stock except for the trigger. It had a gold colored trigger. I'm not sure what that means, but it sounded like it WAS NOT a S&W part.
 
It depends on what you find as acceptable. Me? I can deal with 5-8 lbs if it's crisp. My (blue springs) stock trigger felt like it had sand in it. Far from crisp.

I put the yellow JP springs in it and did some light polishing, and it's a little lighter, and a little smoother, but still some distance from "acceptable." It's still significantly worse than my stock .223 AR trigger (unaltered mil-spec parts).
 
i just did the "10 min." trigger job list night, new jp springs and alittle honning, (not much). it really made the trigger alot smoother and also lighter.
 
compatability

Hey guys i'm new to this forum, and also new to the S&W M&P 15-22, and AR's for that matter. I just had a question hopefully you guys could help me out with. Is the 15-22 lower mil-spec? say for example if i wanted to swap the trigger, or just change some things with the stock trigger to get a lighter trigger pull, would mil-spec components be compatable?
 
Ok lets get a few things correct. When people are talking in general about the "blue" springs in the 15-22 they are not talking about the trigger springs. They are talking about the the recoil spring on top of the bolt that was part of the recall/upgrade of the 15-22 to cure the OOB firings during the first year of production. However in the contect of JP FCG springs the "blue" set is the standard AR set, the "yellow" is the reduced power set and "red" is the extra power set.
So if you install a set of the "yellows" and get any light strikes or failure to fire, the correct thing to do it to put the "blue" hammer spring back in. That will give you a lighter trigger pull and a harder strike on the case rim. JP actually sells a kit with a "yellow" trigger spring and a "red" hammer spring for those with real ARs that want a lighter pull but who might use Russian ammo, which has the harder Russian primers in them.
Me I either use a Geissele Super 3-Gun trigger or an RRA National Match trigger in my ARs or 15-22 depending on what I set the gun up to shoot. An ALG trigger is a standard AR trigger that has been reworked by Geissele to clean up all the creep and other issues, but still leave it at the US military's 6# or greater trigger pull. That way any of our soldiers who want to upgrade his trigger can do it and still have it meet the mil-spec standard.
 
Ok lets get a few things correct. When people are talking in general about the "blue" springs in the 15-22 they are not talking about the trigger springs. They are talking about the the recoil spring on top of the bolt that was part of the recall/upgrade of the 15-22 to cure the OOB firings during the first year of production. However in the contect of JP FCG springs the "blue" set is the standard AR set, the "yellow" is the reduced power set and "red" is the extra power set.
So if you install a set of the "yellows" and get any light strikes or failure to fire, the correct thing to do it to put the "blue" hammer spring back in. That will give you a lighter trigger pull and a harder strike on the case rim. JP actually sells a kit with a "yellow" trigger spring and a "red" hammer spring for those with real ARs that want a lighter pull but who might use Russian ammo, which has the harder Russian primers in them.
Me I either use a Geissele Super 3-Gun trigger or an RRA National Match trigger in my ARs or 15-22 depending on what I set the gun up to shoot. An ALG trigger is a standard AR trigger that has been reworked by Geissele to clean up all the creep and other issues, but still leave it at the US military's 6# or greater trigger pull. That way any of our soldiers who want to upgrade his trigger can do it and still have it meet the mil-spec standard.

well said... me i just slap a Geissele in and call it a day...SD3G in my 15-22, SD-C to try out in my Colt and everything else got a SSA

Edit... forgot about the ALG ACT in my Retro-ish CAR15... not a bad trigger for the money.
 
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I purchased JP reduced pull springs for my 15-22 PC.. but after using the rifle a while.. the trigger pull seems fine out of the box.. so I never ended up using them. I may go ahead and try them in my M&P 15.
 
Hey guys i'm new to this forum, and also new to the S&W M&P 15-22, and AR's for that matter. I just had a question hopefully you guys could help me out with. Is the 15-22 lower mil-spec? say for example if i wanted to swap the trigger, or just change some things with the stock trigger to get a lighter trigger pull, would mil-spec components be compatable?

No, the M&P 15-22 lower is not mil-spec, but you can use mil-spec trigger groups and they will fit and work fine.
 
Out of my 6 15-22's...
The best trigger out of the box so far...has been on the Performance Center rifle... it has a 2 stage match trigger in it... and it is NICE.!!!!!

All of the other stock ones have felt gritty, and some are heavy...so they will all get a 10 minute polish on them... then I will go from there as to changing out springs or parts...

HTH,
Paul
 

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