Does every M&P 15-22 need trigger work?

Hey guys i'm new to this forum, and also new to the S&W M&P 15-22, and AR's for that matter. I just had a question hopefully you guys could help me out with. Is the 15-22 lower mil-spec? say for example if i wanted to swap the trigger, or just change some things with the stock trigger to get a lighter trigger pull, would mil-spec components be compatable?

No the lower isn't really "milSpec". That said, it will take any AR FCG you want to put in it. The not milSpec part is to prevent someone from putting a center-fire upper on it.

Lots a folks have after-market FCGs in their rifle, including me.
 
That's what I used in my ar and my 15-22 the yellow and red springs and a little polishing on the advice of a local gunsmith that builds competition ar's and couldn't be happier with my trigger...
 
No, imo I don't think that all of them need trigger work. As a matter of fact the triggers on my 15/22's were better out of the box than my Colt AR, sad but true. The Colt was the grittiest trigger I've ever pulled. Took about 5 minutes to fix that though.

I posted a question earlier on another trigger topic wondering why guys put $ into a new trigger on a plinker gun like the 15/22 when the stock is actually pretty good. Quite a bit of creap, but smooth and reasonable pull. For the range of a 22lr, and accuracy of the 15/22 a great trigger won't get you anything a reasonable trigger will.

Again, this is the great USA, so if it tickles your fancy, go for it!
 
I posted a question earlier on another trigger topic wondering why guys put $ into a new trigger on a plinker gun like the 15/22 when the stock is actually pretty good. Quite a bit of creap, but smooth and reasonable pull. For the range of a 22lr, and accuracy of the 15/22 a great trigger won't get you anything a reasonable trigger will.

If one is content with a 4-5 lb trigger pull, you are correct. If one doesn't shoot speed matches, you are correct.

For someone with under 3 lb pulls on all his rifles, the factory trigger is not suitable.

Amazing that no one complains when someone puts a $300 trigger on a 10/22. :D

As you say, to each his own.
 
"All things add up" I've said before... even on the 15-22 I got my springs for five buck a set out the door... I do mod to my guns so that they're more efficient... my trigger was ok now it's better... makes me happy and hopefully I have a better shooting gun... "All things add up"...
 
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If one is content with a 4-5 lb trigger pull, you are correct. If one doesn't shoot speed matches, you are correct.

For someone with under 3 lb pulls on all his rifles, the factory trigger is not suitable.

Amazing that no one complains when someone puts a $300 trigger on a 10/22. :D

As you say, to each his own.

I'm not complaining, just wondering... And I would ask the same of a 10/22.

All of my bolt guns wear Timney's and are set at 2lbs, but there again, they are also expected to shoot well under MOA, out 500 - 1000 yards depending on caliber. On a gun like the 15/22 which is 2-3 MOA it doesn't help much for accuracy.

Now speed would be another thing, there is a heck of a lot of creep in them. And if your competiting with it, gotta use every advantage out there...
 
Just shot my new 15-22 for the first time today and the trigger is laughably bad. Granted, I'm probably a little spoiled and don't have any prior experience with AR triggers, but the thing was so bad it was almost good in that if you squeeze very slowly, you can feel the pull weight let up right before it breaks and almost use it as a set trigger. It's not so much the weight as the huge amount of creep and inconsistency.
 
I'm not complaining, just wondering... And I would ask the same of a 10/22.

All of my bolt guns wear Timney's and are set at 2lbs, but there again, they are also expected to shoot well under MOA, out 500 - 1000 yards depending on caliber. On a gun like the 15/22 which is 2-3 MOA it doesn't help much for accuracy.

Now speed would be another thing, there is a heck of a lot of creep in them. And if your competiting with it, gotta use every advantage out there...

All your posts are about accuracy and i dont think anyone every mentioned anything pointing to accuracy.... We are just looking for a better trigger pull either it be from a trigger mod or a replacement trigger... I myself just like the feel of a nice smooth trigger pull with a crisp break and the standard AR platform trigger isnt it...
 
I saw a video on YouTube of a guy fixing the trigger creep by using a set screw in the screw hole for the pistol grip. Has anyone else done this? And how well does it work?


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I saw a video on YouTube of a guy fixing the trigger creep by using a set screw in the screw hole for the pistol grip. Has anyone else done this? And how well does it work?


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Works very well, and is part of the installation of Jard triggers.
 
I just got my JP springs and thought I could fix the creep too when I put them in. I was worried with the set screw in there too that there may be a problem getting the grip bolt tight enough.


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I just got my JP springs and thought I could fix the creep too when I put them in. I was worried with the set screw in there too that there may be a problem getting the grip bolt tight enough.


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The proper set screw is only 3/8". There's more than enough room for the grip bolt.

Springs have nothing to with creep, one way or another. Creep is a function of the engagement of the hammer and trigger hooks.
 
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I only mentioned the JP springs because I figured while I install them I can polish the FCG and fix creep also.

So I then a 1/4"-28 x 3/8" set will do? YouTube guy said 1/4" long. I guess if 3/8" is too long I can grind some off the screw. Hopefully i can find the set screw at the store. Thanks.


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My 1st rifle and my pistol were terrible; yellow springs and a good polishing took care of them. My new rifle is much better; I was suprised how much better it feels. Ordered yellow springs for it anyway
Best upgrade for the money.
 
we'll see? i just ordered 2 sets of JP springs from Brownells and was sent her(by dogzapper) to research "how can i improve my factory trigger" on my MP-15 22?
i have flitz
 
I only mentioned the JP springs because I figured while I install them I can polish the FCG and fix creep also.

So I then a 1/4"-28 x 3/8" set will do? YouTube guy said 1/4" long. I guess if 3/8" is too long I can grind some off the screw. Hopefully i can find the set screw at the store. Thanks.


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A 1/4" long works just fine. I just happened to have a 3/8" one laying around that I used.
 
After reading the various threads and posts and watching some of the YouTube videos of trigger replacement, 15 minute trigger job, etc. I decided to take my trigger group apart and see what is looked like close up.

First, I was surprised at how much dust, grit and debris was inside the lower and on the trigger group. I removed the parts and cleaned the guts and parts with Hopps cleaner. Much nicer.
I decided to work on the trigger. Looking at it I could see the front was ridged from the grinding and the top was coated like the trigger itself.
I did not want to use my Dremel and polish because I wanted to keep the profiles and angles the same. I just wanted to polish the surfaces.
I decided to use my Lansky "fine" diamond sharpening hone I use on my knives. I felt the fine would remove material leaving a smoother surface and keep the angles the same.

It worked very well. I took my time, using a light sanding motion and only 20 strokes then checking progress. I probably polished the front with 100 strokes. The surface was smooth, shiny and grind mark free. I did the same to the top area. This area took maybe 150 strokes and is not as shiny as the front surface but nearly so and much smoother that at the start.

After reassembling and dry firing I felt a very noticeable improvement in the smoothness at the release of the hammer compared to before. I went to the range today prior to this and put 100 rounds through it so I had a very good feel for the trigger feel up to and at the release point. It is much smoother now and I can't wait to hit the range next weekend.

Thanks to everyone for their discussion on this subject and the YouTube videos which are great for watching how the parts are dis/assembled. I may try replacing the springs next.
 
Out of my 6 15-22's...
The best trigger out of the box so far...has been on the Performance Center rifle... it has a 2 stage match trigger in it... and it is NICE.!!!!!

All of the other stock ones have felt gritty, and some are heavy...so they will all get a 10 minute polish on them... then I will go from there as to changing out springs or parts...

HTH,
Paul
It is nice somewhat. When I first got my PC model I was not used to a 5# + trigger. Put JP Yellow springs in and it got pretty good. Then I got better and I found the trigger would not reset as fast as I could shoot in competition. Then I went to the Geissele S3G and all my issues went away. The S3G is faster than I am so I still have room to improve. Plus it matchs the trigger on my Stag 3-Gun AR.
 
if i were shooting competition,i would spend a bit more that $10 on a trigger job too.For "improvement" over factory. just using" flitz" packed in there and catching the hammer 100 times or so, made a difference right away! I cant wait till the mail comes today as my JP springs from Brownells should be there?
6/25rd mags loaded and ready to rock!
now all i need to do is find some more CCI's?
 
HELP

I just did the 15 Minute Practical Trigger Job for the m&p 1522 and the trigger feels great however when I pull the trigger lightly, it doesn't fire. Looks like the firing pin is not hitting the hull hard enough. I can pull the trigger harder and it will fire. Any ideas on how to fix this.
 
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