Does the Shield just suck or my bad luck?

[otis24]

So pressings down firmly on the slide release Un stuck the slide from the rear position, and you think it is related to the recoil guide assembly?

Yes. The SS Guide Rod is probably stiffer than the factory guide rod. The factory guide rod in this pistol, as well as the one in my previous Shield, had issues of locking up the slide if it was not oriented with the opening of the spring pointed upwards. Others have experienced this as well. If you don't think this is a phenomenon, take yours apart and orient the spring downward on a regular basis. Seeing is believing.

 

[Jeppo]

Fortunately, my experience with the Shield has been different. I bought my first one about three months ago, have run several hundred rounds through it and cleaned it 8 or 10 times. I've never paid attention to the orientation of the RSA (same as I don't on any of my other M&P's) and I've never had issues with the slide's functioning.

One thing that is critical is to verify the position of the spring when seating it. It isn't difficult to get it "off center" which could cause a world of hurt. In my owner's manual, there's no mention of the "orientation" but a big caveat on making certain it is seated properly (centered).

By the way, I do have an extremely stiff slide lock lever. I don't use it as a slide release so it hasn't been much of an issue for me.

 

[sandog]

The front of the RSA is easy. It seats into the recess at the front of the slide.
The back of the RSA is easy too, when properly seated it has to be parallel to the barrel, and parallel to the slide.
Try to reassemble when the back of the RSA is canted would lock up the slide. While the orientation of the RSA might be more critical on the Shield than other designs, it's not that hard to get it right.
Just glance at the RSA and make sure it's right before attempting to put your slide back on, and you shouldn't have problems.

 

[old&slow]

otis24, Sorry for your bad luck.
I have read on this forum several complaints about the Shield. Plus I have seen several quality issues with S&W's over the last several years.
However, I have several friends that have the 9mm Shields and are quite happy with them. So, when the rebate started I decided it was time for me to get one.

Just to make sure I really needed one. I took my brother's Shield out in the back yard with a mag of his ammo and proceeded to chew the paint about the size of a tennis ball off the center of a 10" steel plate @ about 12 - 15 yards.

The Shield I purchased shot high with my 147gr. ammo. So, I changed the front sight to change POI and put on Talon rubber grip tape.. Took it to a local Steel Challenge match and shot it.
I figure if a firearm is going to mess up,, it will do it at a match.
The Shield shot like a champ. No problems. I actually shot one of my best matches with it.

I liked it so much I purchased another one. So, far No problems with it either. It also shot high for me with my 147 gr ammo. But switching to 124 gr ammo centered up the sights just fine.

Guess I'll have to change the sights or start loading two different bullet weight ,,
Again sorry for your luck,, hope you get the bugs worked out..

 

[wingriderz]

Don't get me wrong, I do like my Shield and will keep it (probably). It is just very frustrating when a quality firearm gives you fits over what should be a basic simple function.

Copy that had an issue with my one and only Springfield (Xds 45 ) . So far never an issue with a Smith

 

[NCW Ray]

Fortunately, my experience with the Shield has been different. I bought my first one about three months ago, have run several hundred rounds through it and cleaned it 8 or 10 times. I've never paid attention to the orientation of the RSA (same as I don't on any of my other M&P's) and I've never had issues with the slide's functioning.

One thing that is critical is to verify the position of the spring when seating it. It isn't difficult to get it "off center" which could cause a world of hurt. In my owner's manual, there's no mention of the "orientation" but a big caveat on making certain it is seated properly (centered).

By the way, I do have an extremely stiff slide lock lever. I don't use it as a slide release so it hasn't been much of an issue for me.

Page 26 shows the proper RSA orientation.

 

[Will41]

I think the best thing to do is just send it in to Smith and Wesson if you think something is wrong. I did this for a Shield that seemed to be binding. They sent it back and told me it was fine. At first, I didn't believe them. But, after putting about 500 rounds though it, everything is good.

My wife's Shield didn't have this problem. Funny, since I shoot mine more than she does, mine is now a little smoother. You could also take it to a local gunsmith or back where you bought it if local.

This is why I now check the exact gun before I buy it. Some seem to be smooth right out of the box and others require a break in. However, my Shield was still reliable since new.

 

[Dad_Roman]

I hate that your having bad luck with yours. Been some good advice on the threads on various sticking/jamming problems but like many others, I have four of them and not a single problem.

I did put the SSGuiderod in the Shield9 a couple of years ago for mamma because the spring was a bit lighter. Ended up being a lot lighter and she could limpwrist a 50% failure rate. Back to the OEM and no problems.

Hope you get your sorted out!

 

[wrangler5]

I own a 40 Shield and a Glock 23. The Shield is definitely more sensitive to proper seating of the RSA and also requires more care to make sure it is seated properly. The Glock RSA seems to just naturally pop into the correct seat on the barrel lug. The Shield sometimes wants to go left or right a little bit, and that can be enough to prevent proper slide installation.

My Glock 19 and 26 have a circular recess cut into the front of the barrel lug which perfectly centers the guide rod when you're reassembling the slide/barrel/recoil spring package. The Shield design asks you to center a circular disc at the back end of the RSA on top of the circular barrel.

It really isn't THAT tough to do when you know what you're supposed to do and pay attention while doing it. But I have to wonder how hard it would have been for S&W to cut a Glock-type notch in the barrel lug, and make the correct alignment of the RSA automatic??

 

[Jeppo]

Page 26 shows the proper RSA orientation.

I think we're both trying to say the same thing. By orientation, I intended the frequently mentioned discussion about whether the "end of the spring" needs to be pointing any specific direction. This isn't mentioned in the manual and I've never given it a second thought.

On the other hand, I was trying to point out to the OP what is mentioned in the manual...that the assembly must be properly aligned and centered to the barrel.

 

[hoc9sw]

Before trashing a guy, or just selling it to unload your problems, get a return auth from CS, and send it back. Send (with the gun) a detailed description of the problems. The gunsmith will look at what the enclosures that are sitting there with the gun say, not so much what the CS person types on the form.

I went through more that my share of issues with my Shield, but they finally found the issue and got it right.

 

[dben002]

I've always been a revolver guy at heart. Never even consided plastic. I reasoned that Glocks have been around forever and they have held up well. So, reluctantly, I gave the Shield a chance. After disassembling the Shield, I had issues with the slide locking up. After less than a month, I got rid of the Shield and went back to my trusty revolver. With the recent sale price of $375 less $75 rebate, I decided to give the Shield another chance. I experienced the same issue with the slide locking up. I have since learned that the guide rod and spring have to be oriented a certain way. Reliability is a must. I decided to install the one-piece guide rod from SSGuideRod.com. Now, the slide won't release. Once I lock the slide back and drop the magazine, there is no room for the slide to move back so that it will release and separate from the frame. What gives? Any suggestions? Really wanted to like this pistol, but would opt for a flintlock over the Shield at this point.

My honest opinion is that it's your bad luck.

I have owned the Shield 9 and now the Shield 45 and mine were and are flawless....Had the 9 for 2 years, and have had the 45 for over a year now.....So flawless in fact that when the new 2.0 shield 9 is released I will purchase it also.

Don't know what to say for your situation, but do know there are over a million happy shield owners who have had no problems with their shields......As you admittedly prefer the wheel guns, that would probably be the best place to stay as that seems to be where your confidence is.

 

[mtgianni]

IIUC, the problems are consistent and only appear after you disassemble and reassemble. I understand it is a guy thing but make sure you are doing what S&W wants in your reassemble not just what seems right.

 

[bblhd672]

IIUC, the problems are consistent and only appear after you disassemble and reassemble. I understand it is a guy thing but make sure you are doing what S&W wants in your reassemble not just what seems right.

What!?!? Read the f***ing manual?

 

[wrangler5]

What!?!? Read the f***ing manual?

Yeah, I think it's part of the 21st Century, kinder-gentler-guy thing our betters are pushing on us.

Some of us continue to RESIST, though. The words I try to live by (as long as things continue to work) are those on the back of a Binford Tools t-shirt I bought decades ago at Disney World:

Real Men Don't Need Instructions

Too bad it has shrunk so badly I can't wear it any more.

 

[VaTom]

Have owned a Shield 9mm for 3 1/2 years. Was a retirement gift. They had not been on the market long at that time. Never a problem. Had carried a Glock 23 at work for ten years and the RSA is indeed easier to put into place on the Glock than the Shield.

 

[swsig]

I did put the SSGuiderod in the Shield9 a couple of years ago for mamma because the spring was a bit lighter. Ended up being a lot lighter and she could limpwrist a 50% failure rate. Back to the OEM and no problems.

I'm headed into thread drift territory here, but thanks for posting that. I've read dozens (hundreds?) of posts about the SSGuiderod, and they all say, "I've just installed mine, and it's great!" However, yours may be the first that mentions actual long-term user experience. I've always been skeptical about an aftermarket guide rod that uses only 1/2 of the Shield's factory recoil spring system, and your experience shows its limitations. I wish other SSGuiderod users would post about how theirs are working.

 

[Dad_Roman]

A quick drift with the wind while they contemplate the manual

We were skeptical also but we were looking for assistance racking the slide back in her early learning days. The experience lasted all of 10 minutes. When I ran a mag, after her, I had -0- failures. Hand it back to her and its back to 50%.

Apparently the OEM RSA is strong enough to overcome some difficulties of rheumatoid arth. sufferer's wrists.

We put the OEM RSA back in immediately after that and sold off the SSGR.

Couple of years down the road and she has no problem picking up my XDM....and it has a BEAST of a spring

 

[GL9CK]

My Shield is awesome and so far it's been flawless. The same can be said for tens of thousands of them.

You got a Monday or Friday lemon.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

 

[GSD2053]

Yes. The SS Guide Rod is probably stiffer than the factory guide rod. The factory guide rod in this pistol, as well as the one in my previous Shield, had issues of locking up the slide if it was not oriented with the opening of the spring pointed upwards. Others have experienced this as well. If you don't think this is a phenomenon, take yours apart and orient the spring downward on a regular basis. Seeing is believing.

So you are saying you reassembled it with the guide rod installed incorrectly? The slide stuck to the rear and it was able to release by not moving the slide back any more. As the rear movement is where the binding occurred.

Sorry I'm a little slow. Ya the slide release is really tight on these.

I would go back to the factory guide rod and just be sure to assemble it correctly.