Donuts on my 686 Cylinder

Steel wool

The reason for not using steel wool is that minute particles of steel wool will get embedded in the stainless steel and start corrosion in the SS.
John
 
Guys, went down to Wally World this morning, back in the Automotive Department & found a 5 ounce can of NEVR-DULL for $ 4.47. Came home & tore off a small piece.. used it on the "donuts" and whata job. Took them all off that Hoppes #9 would not remove. The ones in my picture on page one are all gone. Thanks a million for the recommendations. It really works.
Carl:) :) :) !

If you put that small piece back in the can it will absorb the chemicals from the rest of the wadding and you can use it again.
 
Some are saying the Lead Away cloth is abrasive and are recommending the Nevr-Dull product.

I recently purchased and used the Lead Away cloth and was very impressed with the results. Tonight, I bought Nevr-Dull but haven't used it yet.

While comparing the two materials it feels as if the Nevr-Dull would be more abrasive than the Lead Away cloth.

Does anyone know for sure?
 
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Be careful with using anything too abrasive on the face of the cylinder, the exit throats should be kept sharp and uniform, like the crown on your barrel's muzzle since they perform a similar function when the revolver is fired. Damage caused by improper cleaning can degrade accuracy. It hurts nothing to leave the powder fouling on. If you need to clean it, soak the cylinder in a solvent or use Slip 2000's Carbon Killer and wipe it off. Let the chemicals do the work.

Mike
Plus one! The lead removal cloths or any other mild abrasive backed by something flat, like a tongue depressor.

I have found that cleaning thoroughly with MPro7/Hoppe's Elite (and the lead remover cloths at first) then lubricating all the hot spots: cylinder bores, the cylinder face, the forcing cone, inner top strap, recoil shield, and barrel bore with a dry Teflon Lube (Elmer's Slide-All at about $5 a can) makes it easier to clean next time, cylinder face and rear included. Each time is easier, The rest of the metal gets a good gun oil. I use MPro7 Gun Oil, Breakfree CLP, or similar blown thin with compressed air.

Here's a 617 Plus cleaned that way (cylinder front):

SW617-2CylFrt.jpg


617 Cylinder rear:

SW617-2CylRearCU.jpg


629 Cylinder front, forcing cone and inner top strap:

629CylinderFront.jpg

629Cone.jpg


And a 547 Cylinder front (blued):

CylinderFace547.jpg


Elmer's Slide-All

41oIi4wjQoL._SS500_.jpg
 
BIRCHWOOD CASEY Lead Remover & Polishing Cloth, "quickly removes....leading, burn rings, and carbon residue", (for stainless steel) available at Dick's.
 
cleaning revolver cylinders

I use a worn down schotch brite pad (green) and bore cleaner. Works great on S.S. and if you go easy on blued ones.
 
Those little "donuts" are a test to see if you have OCD or not.

I'm a confirmed OCD. For me it's a soak in Nitro Solvent followed up with a wipe with Lead Away cleaning cloths. I've also used Never Dull but it's not as fast as the Lead Away and requires more scrubbing. As for the Lead Away being abrasive, I've tested the Kleen Bore brand on fully polished stainless and it had no effect on the finish. However, I would NOT use it on any blued or nickle finish. I've found out the hard way that it will strip bluing so it's a product that should only be used on stainless steel.
 
"EZ Bright Wonder Cloth" (4 bucks out the door at my local fun shop) cleaned the donuts off my Smiths today in a jiffy.....alone with putting a shine on the forcing cone, top strap, and everywhere else there was the slightest bit of buildup....
I used it to clean up my Kahr PM9 barrel today as well......
(yes, today was the dreaded gun cleaning day).....
 
I use Mothers on all my SS handguns, and GENTLY on the blue....especially where their is freckling....Mothers cleaned up the freckling on my blue steel 49 yesterday, and a good coat of paste wax made her shine...
 
Exfebee;
This is all very good stuff. But what I really want to know is this...what kind of wood are your grips made of?
Nice job on the picture, too!
 
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I use a lead free cloth and it cleans up the cylinder face really well.
 
I've always used an old t-shirt with a dab of Brasso or Flitz, both work great. We work for donuts.
 
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