Double-action trigger problem 629-3

MJF

Member
Joined
Jan 2, 2003
Messages
48
Reaction score
54
Location
East Lyme, CT
Just bought a used 629-3. Condition seems excellent.
Operates correctly single action, or double action with a strong squeeze of the trigger.
When I try to fire double action with a deliberate, slow squeeze, the trigger stops just before let-off. It takes extra pressure to make the trigger travel the last fraction and release the hammer. This seems to happen on only 4 cylinders.
The cylinder stop seems to be working correctly. Ideas? I'm stumped.

Should note that with the cylinder removed, the issue disappears - trigger operates correctly. Does this mean the problem is with the hand or ratchet?
 
Last edited:
Register to hide this ad
Loose ejector rod/ crud under the ejector star or a bent ejector rod. There could be other causes but that is the easy stuff to check. Have you cleaned & lubed it?
 
Most likely cause is long ratchets on the four offending chambers. The ratchets may not have been properly fit.

Try dry firing DA after opening the cylinder and holding the cylinder latch back. If the trigger moves smoothly through the entire cycle with the cylinder open, it's probably a long ratchet problem.

Dirt and shooting debris in the hand slot and on the ratchets can make the problem worse. A thorough cleaning and re-lubrication of these areas may help. The probable permanent fix is to have a qualified gunsmith fit the ratchets properly, or perhaps, if the carry up is sufficient to allow it, to install a slightly (-.001") thinner hand.
 
Last edited:
Thank you, armorer951, you got me thinking in the right direction. The hand measures .0944 - just barely too thick (found the specs in the Kuhnhausen book.) I stoned it down to .0941, and the problem is much improved - almost gone. A few more strokes with the stone should do it.
 
Are you sure it wasn't .094" ?

Make sure you don't take too much off. Check carry up on all the chambers as you go.

Also, it is a good idea to place a couple of empty casings in the chambers to "line up" the extractor when doing the carry up checks.
 
Last edited:
The proper way to fit the ratchet is to work on the offending ratchet itself to fix carry up. Thinning the hand with a stone changes the hand for all the ratchets. You could very easily end up with 4 that work fine and 2 that are late in carry up and won't lock.
 
+1 on flintsghost post. Thinning the hand is not the way to adjust ratchets! They need to be done individually to mesh with the hand or you will affect carry up.
 
Thank you for the cautions regarding the hand. I'm going to stop where I am. Don't think I'm up to fooling with the ratchets, so we'll see if dry-firing helps it wear in. If not - back to factory for re-fitting.
 
I suggest in the future ask where the advise giver got his information or knowledge. Over time, if a high racket is the cause, the chrome hand will cut it! There is a trick to cutting the correct ratchet and it is really easy for the uninformed or untrained to destroy one! You can use a mic, you may have to use it now that you thinned the hand to get the next thickest it any one will sell you one.
 
Last edited:
The proper way to fit the ratchet is to work on the offending ratchet itself to fix carry up. Thinning the hand with a stone changes the hand for all the ratchets. You could very easily end up with 4 that work fine and 2 that are late in carry up and won't lock.

Flintsghost:

While I do agree that IF the problem IS that the Ratchets were not properly fit they SHOULD be brought into proper spec, HOWEVER since the problem occurs in 4 out of 6 (66%) the offending part might very well be the Hand. ALSO, I doubt many here have the skills, know-how and tools to properly file and fit Ratchets without ruining them. If one were to ruin a Hand, it's easily and inexpensively replaced and fit. EVEN if the Hand were to be stoned on the thin side but still within minimum spec, it might just be enough to get the 4 offending cylinders to work. IF the hammer fell slightly premature on two of the cylinders (only when trigger is pulled very very slowly) with the larger Ratchets, the inertia would more than likely lock up the Cylinder before the hammer fell when the Trigger is pulled in the normal fashion. I have seen MANY revolvers that have slow lock-up of Cylinders when the Trigger is slowly and deliberately pulled DA, but operates perfectly normal under real time Trigger pulls. Colt DA Revolvers were famous for this and Colt did not usually see that as a "defect" unless it was grossly out of time. There are PLENTY of Smiths out there that are similar!

Of course the PROPER fix is to send it to the Factory or competent GS to have it repaired properly - with both the Ratchets and the Hand being within Factory Specs and all working properly.

I am also wondering if the problem could be a poorly fit DA Sear or bent Yoke but impossible to know without seeing and feeling the gun in person.
 
Last edited:
Flintsghost:
HOWEVER since the problem occurs in 4 out of 6 (66%) the offending part might very well be the Hand.

EVEN if the Hand were to be stoned on the thin side but still within minimum spec, it might just be enough to get the 4 offending cylinders to work.

IF the hammer fell slightly premature on two of the cylinders (only when trigger is pulled very very slowly) with the larger Ratchets, the inertia would more than likely lock up the Cylinder before the hammer fell when the Trigger is pulled in the normal fashion.

Hoping that a 44 mag out of time will carry up with inertia is a disaster waiting to happen.

Get it fixed right.
 
Back
Top