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Anyone have experience with 1911 drop-in barrels that require no fitting?
I have built many 1911's and installed a lot of aftermarket barrels over the last 30+ years or so. During that time, I've never encountered a replacement aftermarket 1911 barrel that required zero fitting.
Some of the direct "factory" made replacement barrels for non 1911 series pistols will drop right in and function fine.
The 1911 style barrel is a little more of a challenge to fit properly due to the minumum four points of contact, link, and checking to confirm headspace. "Drop in", if they actually exist, will mean that all these critical surfaces are overcut to accommodate a variety of slide/frame specs, and because of this are very loose at the critical contact points. The inevitable result is poor reliability and sub-standard accuracy.
They don't exist, they all require fitting or tuning.Anyone have experience with 1911 drop-in barrels that require no fitting?
The barrel bushing fit on the barrel itself, the bushing fit in the slide, the locking lugs on the barrel, the barrel hood at the rear of the barrel, the barrel foot, the proper link, headspace/chamber depth.....the list goes on and on.
With this many variables, and a few more I didn't mention, the term "drop-in match barrel" becomes an oxymoron. There are "match grade" 1911 barrels for sure, and there are barrels labeled "drop-in" but these barrels won't fit an function as intended without considerable attention and modification to fit your particular brand and model of 1911. Perfect fit from the box to your make/model pistol I would label as pure happenstance.
BTW, Nowlin makes some of the finest match grade barrels out there, IMO.
A tight fitting barrel bushing on an otherwise sloppy fitting barrel may produce a slight improvement in accuracy, but usually not much. Properly fit barrels will have a consistent lockup between barrel and barrel bushing, top locking lugs and the bottom lug (foot). This creates three points of consistent contact, a tight bushing on a sloppy barrel creates only one point of consistent contact.I was under the impression that it is the barrel bushing that is critical for the M1911-cf. Colt's introduction of the Mark IV bushing.
I was under the impression that it is the barrel bushing that is critical for the M1911-cf. Colt's introduction of the Mark IV bushing.
Accuracy in a 1911 comes from a multiplicity of tolerance issues. Some are more important than others in the big scheme of things.
Colt's Mark IV bushing (finger style spring bushing) does help but at a reliability cost. If the front face of the slide is even a bit out of square the finger bushing will fail, sometimes dramatically, in just a few hundred or thousand rounds. I would not advise one to bet their hide on one. About the only way a solid bushing will fail is if both a too long recoil spring and a full length guide rod are in use. In that case, the bottom feet of the bushing will snap off. This produces a launch of the cap and probably the recoil spring. Something to be said for the dependability of the original GI style guide. If one is willing to check compressed length for each and every recoil spring goes into the 1911 then a full length guide rod will do.
A quick and easy way to improve rear lockup is to get a Wilson Combat "Group Gripper"...used to be sold as the Dwyer product of the same name before Bill Wilson bought the rights to it.
It installs easily and works by maintaining consistent spring pressure upwards locking the barrel lugs into position. I've used these for years and can say they work as advertised.
Use one of them and you really have to only worry about consistent front lockup and with a fitted barrel bushing.