Dry firing a 617

While I've heard not to dry fire a 22 rimfire revolver, I've always done it when putting away my rifles so they wouldn't be stored in a cocked position. I think I'll add snap caps to them in storage from now on.

I've never heard that you also shouldn't dry fire shotguns. I did the same with them as I did my rifles, doing that final dry fire before storage. I guess I need to add snap caps to my shotguns as well for storage.

If you have bolt action rifles, many of them can be decocked by holding the trigger back as you close the bolt.
 
50 years ago, I was with someone when they dry fired a shotgun in the house, and the inertia sent the head of the pin across the room and hit the wall.

.....

Ha ha! That reminds me of the time i was dry firing a relatively new Python less than a week before a match and launched the front half of the pin towards the place i was aiming in the basement. Whittled a new one out of beryllium copper the next day and haven't had a lick of trouble out of it since 1997.

Things happen. T'ain't the end of the world when they do.
BTW, Brownells used to sell a handy tool to iron out burrs on the edge of .22 rimfire chambers which I've used on many folks rifles and pistols. Mostly rifles, though. Aside from the el cheapo .22 revolvers, it doesn't seem very common for wheel guns.
 
Neither rim fires nor shotguns should be dry fired for the reasons stated above. Don't think there's any way to harm a centerfire pistol or rifle though.

Art

Firing pin breakage in centerfires can still be a concern. Have seen it happen, all the way back in high school. But either keep a spare and know how to change it, or worry not until it happens and then let the gunsmith fret over it.
 
I don't dry fire a .22 rimfire. Simple as that. Don't know if it is good or bad I just don't do it.
 
Right or wrong as a rule I never dry fire without a snap cap or one I have made from a deprimed case and some rubber compound in the primer pocket for centerfire. Why risk it.
 
I flipped through the Revolvers - Modern Style- Manual and didn't see a prohibition on dry firing. If it's there what page?
 
I flipped through the Revolvers - Modern Style- Manual and didn't see a prohibition on dry firing. If it's there what page?


From the S&W website: FAQs | Smith & Wesson

Can I dry fire my S&W handgun?
Q: Can I dry fire my Smith & Wesson?

A: Yes, except for the .22 caliber pistols which includes models 22A, 22S, 422, 2206, 2214, 2213 and 41.

.22 caliber revolvers such as models 17, 43, 63, 317 and 617 also should not be dry fired.

Q: Why can't I dry fire my .22 pistol or revolver?

A: Dry firing a S&W .22 pistol or revolver will cause damage to the firing pin.
 
From the S&W website: FAQs | Smith & Wesson

Can I dry fire my S&W handgun?
Q: Can I dry fire my Smith & Wesson?

A: Yes, except for the .22 caliber pistols which includes models 22A, 22S, 422, 2206, 2214, 2213 and 41.

.22 caliber revolvers such as models 17, 43, 63, 317 and 617 also should not be dry fired.

Q: Why can't I dry fire my .22 pistol or revolver?

A: Dry firing a S&W .22 pistol or revolver will cause damage to the firing pin.

Nice to see somebody quote an authoritative source. There are often too many anecdotes about doing (whatever) for years without a problem. A wise person once said "the plural of anecdote is not data."
 
I see that recommendation often. Why would anyone do that?

Snap caps are cheap, repairs are expensive, and sometimes difficult or impossible.

To take that to the next level how about instead of dry firing the poor thing a million times at home, why not shoot live rounds a million times at the range and smooth out the action naturally while at the same time actually getting better with the gun? :p:p
 
To take that to the next level how about instead of dry firing the poor thing a million times at home, why not shoot live rounds a million times at the range and smooth out the action naturally while at the same time actually getting better with the gun? :p:p

My poor old no dash 4" 617 has been subjected to both. Especially as it's the "cheap" training alternative to shooting "a million" .38 Special rounds. In actual numbers it's probably had less than 100,000 rounds through it, maybe. Would have been more if not for the multi year .22 ammo shortage! Previously we'd just buy .22 by the case lot of 5000. Was nothing to burn through 500 or so a day at the home range or at Ft. Benning. Usually 2 cases a year for that revolver. And I've had it just over 20 years.

Stupidly enough, that revolver still has a heavy DA pull! What's amazing, though, is that it still carries up better than just about any other S&W I own, and the locking notches aren't all peened up.
 
The firing pin is free floated so after contact with the hammer, inertia carries it until it contacts the cylinder. When you measure the firing pin protrusion, you must do it with the firing pin pushed all the way forward against the spring pressure. If you do it with the hammer only pushing on the rear of the pin, you won't see the distance it travels on its own after contact with the hammer. YMMV with different guns and from chamber to chamber within the same gun. If you want to dry fire your gun, use snap caps or empty cases to cushion the pin or you will eventually cause a peen where the pin contacts the cylinder.

Best post in the thread.
 
While I've heard not to dry fire a 22 rimfire revolver, I've always done it when putting away my rifles so they wouldn't be stored in a cocked position. I think I'll add snap caps to them in storage from now on.

I never intentionally dry fire a 22 but with semiautos it happens occasionally when the gun fails to pick up a new cartridge. A quality gun is not going to self destruct the first time it dry fired. Snap caps are cheap so I advise using them but don't worry too much about an occasional accidental dry fire.

Snap caps and dry wall anchors have a limited lifetime. After one or two strikes on the same spot on the rim they no longer offer a cushion. Be sure to buy a big bag of them.

When asked Ruger will usually state it is OK to dry fire their 22s and the manual usually states the same. If your 22 rifles are 10/22s the snap caps might not be necessary. Not sure why Ruger could design a 22 that is OK to dry fire but S&W cannot but the damaged cylinder earlier in this thread is the first time I have seen someone complain about a Ruger that had a problem from dry firing. And to me it looks like that revolver had a different problem. Damage from dry firing usually shows up on all the chambers equally since it builds up.
 
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The firing pin is free floated so after contact with the hammer, inertia carries it until it contacts the cylinder. When you measure the firing pin protrusion, you must do it with the firing pin pushed all the way forward against the spring pressure. If you do it with the hammer only pushing on the rear of the pin, you won't see the distance it travels on its own after contact with the hammer. YMMV with different guns and from chamber to chamber within the same gun. If you want to dry fire your gun, use snap caps or empty cases to cushion the pin or you will eventually cause a peen where the pin contacts the cylinder.

You can't argue with the laws of nature.and physics. I made a mental note of everyone in this thread who dry fires their rimfires. If they list one for sale, I'll know to pass. LOL.
 
You can't argue with the laws of nature.and physics. I made a mental note of everyone in this thread who dry fires their rimfires. If they list one for sale, I'll know to pass. LOL.

If my 617s were vehicles, the mileage would be so high I'd be paying somebody to haul them off! And the 4"ers haven't seen many "easy highway miles" regardless....

Wouldn't have it any other way!
 
Prarieviper makes a good point. I considered only the damage to the cylinder, not that the firing pin can't take the abuse. Bought a box of wall anchors today. I'll have to look up Smith's FAQs.
 
If the manufacturer says don't do it, I don't do it.


Many of them tell you not to carry a gun with a round in the chamber.

I dry fire the **** out of almost all centerfire guns, and some rimfire. If it's a rimfire that will have issues, or poor firing pin availability I'll just use fired brass as a snap cap.
 
While I've heard not to dry fire a 22 rimfire revolver, I've always done it when putting away my rifles so they wouldn't be stored in a cocked position. I think I'll add snap caps to them in storage from now on.

When you want to relax the firing pin spring, do so by holding the trigger back while closing the action. That way, on many gun designs, the firing pin is released slowly. On a revolver, hang onto the hammer, pull the trigger and release the hammer slowly.

Or use snap caps but some people don't like leaving anything in the chamber long-term for fear of corrosion developing.

Ed
 
I always go down to the LGS and dry fire their 617's.
They are always cool with it when I tell them it doesnt hurt the gun.
I have an internet thread that proves it too
 

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