Dry firing SW40VE

wonl2

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Does dry firing a SW40VE damage the pistol. I have read that dry firing will ease the trigger pull. I just bought the pistol and don't want it ruined. Thanks in advance for the replies.

WONL2
 
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Does dry firing a SW40VE damage the pistol. I have read that dry firing will ease the trigger pull. I just bought the pistol and don't want it ruined. Thanks in advance for the replies.

WONL2
 
It will also get you more acquainted with the gun. I constantly dry fire my gun. I had a tendency to snatch the trigger. A lot of dry firing has helped immensely with this issue. Dry fire a way you will not regret this gun.
 
I bought a snap cap for my 9VE, but it's not needed. (And it's a pain in the butt to cycle w/o either ejecting the cap or pinching the crap outta the web of your hand..
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But as others have said, dry firing only makes the sigma better!! I dry fired mine at least 1000 times when I first got it, and I would swear the trigger got smoother and lighter.. But it wasnt until I smoothed/polished the back of the sear/block (that rides the poly ramp) that my trigger got the crunch out of it.. It's very smooth and reasonable now! Go for it!!
Note: My buddie just got a 40VE and his trigger is very smooth right outta the box.. A little stiffer than mine, but no cruchy feel.. Just an FYI..
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When I first bought my Sigma the dealer told me to dry fire it often to improve the trigger. Right out of the box it was much stiffer and crunchy but with the dry fireing it's much better now.
 
Originally posted by wonl2:
Does dry firing a SW40VE damage the pistol. I have read that dry firing will ease the trigger pull. I just bought the pistol and don't want it ruined. Thanks in advance for the replies.

WONL2

Dry fire the hell out of it!!!
 
Dry fire it every chance you get. You'll notice a smoother and slightly lighter pull after a few hundred pulls or rounds at the range. At least I have with mine.
 
Originally posted by 990LQA:
Does anyone know if dry firing this recommended for the SW99QA/990L DAO models?

S&W on there web site "FAQ" says only the 22 cal. guns need to use snap caps, all others dry fire the snot outta it!
 
Why have we heard in the past that dry firing was "bad" for guns. (Maybe it still is for some guns.) Would somebody explain the dangers of dry firing and why they do not apply to the VE's.

Thanks
 
Originally posted by cAlvis:
Why have we heard in the past that dry firing was "bad" for guns.
Thanks

Because you were reading or talking to a moron?

Dry firing will not harm any well made modern centerfire pistol or revovler. S&W's web site says it is OK and the old owner's manual/instruction sheet that came with their guns used to recommend dry firing. I am talking about the folded instruction sheet, not the current "owner's manual."

Some guns are cheaply made and dry firing is not recommended. If it is harmful, it will say in the instructions. For some reason, I seem to remember that Kel-Tec has a warning against it in their owner's manual.

This is from the S&W web site:

Can I dry fire my S&W handgun?
Q: Can I dry fire my Smith & Wesson?

A: Yes, except for the .22 caliber pistols which includes models 22A, 22S, 422, 2206, 2214, 2213 and 41.

.22 caliber revolvers such as models 17, 43, 63, 317 and 617 also should not be dry fired.

Q: Why can't I dry fire my .22 pistol or revolver?

A: Dry firing a S&W .22 pistol or revolver will cause damage to the firing pin.
 
I dry fired the heck out of my SW40VE and eventually the striker broke. I have it in for that repair right now. When talking to the gunsmith (an authorized repair shop by S&W) he said that this is a common problem after dry firing so much. When I get my gun back I will still dry fire but I will be using a already spent shell in the chamber for the striker to hit.
 
From the old days certain rifles and shotguns were sudden death to dry firing. It became a habit for some of us old timers to avoid dry firing when at all possible..
 
Originally posted by tonytgman:
I dry fired the heck out of my SW40VE and eventually the striker broke. I have it in for that repair right now. When talking to the gunsmith (an authorized repair shop by S&W) he said that this is a common problem after dry firing so much. When I get my gun back I will still dry fire but I will be using a already spent shell in the chamber for the striker to hit.

An already spent cartridge really won't provide you with much protection once the striker has struck it a couple of times. The primer surface can only push in so far before the striker will no longer reach it anyway.
 
cshoff;
Yes I do realize that, but I have a lot of spent shells so when I notice that the striker is getting to the point that it wont be hitting the primer anymore I just get another spent shell. Why spend more money on Snap caps when I've got plenty of spent shells. To tell you the truth you really don't need to dry fire anyway. If your just trying to smooth out the trigger all anyone really needs to do is simply just keep pulling the trigger with the striker not engaged with the sear...
 
Originally posted by tonytgman:
cshoff;
Yes I do realize that, but I have a lot of spent shells so when I notice that the striker is getting to the point that it wont be hitting the primer anymore I just get another spent shell. Why spend more money on Snap caps when I've got plenty of spent shells. To tell you the truth you really don't need to dry fire anyway. If your just trying to smooth out the trigger all anyone really needs to do is simply just keep pulling the trigger with the striker not engaged with the sear...

Actually, the added tension from the striker being engaged will greatly speed up the process of "smoothing out". Personally, I prefer to do my trigger pulling on the range with a mag full of live ammo.
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