Dust cover for the 15-22

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I do like the look of the 15-22 with just the exposed bolt, but is there anyone like me who wouldn't mind also seeing some kind of after market dust cover? Though applying it would probably void the warranty...I don't know, it seems like a cool idea.
 
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It wouldn't be hard at all to add a spring loaded dust cover, but you would have to drill some holes, and yes that would probably void the warranty.

However, it may be possible to make something that attaches to the picatinny rail right above the ejection port.
 
Yeah. I know the ejection port isn't the same size as a regular AR, but imagine some kind of miniature version. Lord knows there is definitely enough machining know-how on this forum to fabricate one. I just wanted to see others opinions on the matter...
 
However, it may be possible to make something that attaches to the picatinny rail right above the ejection port.
It could be something that attaches to the rails, like you said and then sort of drapes down and frames the ejection port. It could also be set up with rails built in on top so you don't lose any rail space. Though it would be like a riser....
 
A frame is a really good thought. You can have the springs and latch all integrated and not have to do anything other then attach it.
 
Yeah, I think we're on to something. I can do some concept drawings to better illustrate what I'm talking about. All we need is someone to fabricate it....
 
The bolt on an AR forces the latch on the dust cover open. Our 15-22 bolts don't have a recessed area to allow the latch to close. I think that machining the bolt would definitely void the warranty.
 
The bolt on an AR forces the latch on the dust cover open. Our 15-22 bolts don't have a recessed area to allow the latch to close. I think that machining the bolt would definitely void the warranty.

Simple fix. You have a small wedge on the inside of the dust cover that protrudes into the ejection port slightly. When the bolt closes it forces the cover open.
 
I need a dust cover to go over my rails. When I carry my 15-22 on my atv the dust goes in the holes of the rails and gets my barrel dusty. I blowed the dust out with a air compressor. I just but a barrel nut wrench,now I can take rails off and clean barrel good.
 
So here is a very rough sketch of what I was thinking. The bracket/frame is in green for clarities sake. Obviously it would be black to match the rifle. I left the door because it is obviously what it is.

The bracket would/could either attach to the rail like a ladder style rail cover or, and I didn't put this in the sketch, you could have it be a combined riser to mount a scope on....again just a thought.

The frame would be a thin but sturdy plate that hugs the contours of the upper.
 

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Not a dust cover per se

I got a nasty brass burn at my indoor range awhile ago and put a deflector on my guns. It does shield the port but doesn't seal it.

Hobie
 

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Well, as per someone with too much time on their hands, I made a mock-up of an ejection port cover.

Before you guys bash it, just remember it is a crude, unrefined model of something that someone here with machining skills/tools could professionally do. And no, it isn't made out of aluminum foil. It's sheet metal...

Thinking about how one could fasten it to the side of the gun, I think the best option for not voiding the warranty would be to use 3m double sided automotive tape ( I know it kind of makes me cringe too, but short of a rail mounting system you'd have to screw it in ). The tape is super strong in all weather and would definitely hold something of little weight like this without problems.

Anyway, have a look and please remember, it's just a mock-up...
 

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I can see it happening. Clip Draw uses the double sided tape for their Clip Draw holster clip. Add a spring and a catch and this is a great option.
 
Imagine it as a part that is precision machined and parkerized. I think it would look good on the 15-22. But is this something people would be interesting in seeing get produced or do you guys think I'm wasting my time? I don't have the tools/skill to actually make this the way Belt_fed or some of the others could, I am just trying to spark some interest here.

What do you guys think?
 
im in, id like to see someone come up with some thing the average guy could attach himself.
 
Have you considered gluing something like a rubber refrigerator magnet to the inside of the cover?
If you spring load the cover and fit it so it extends about 1/8" all around the opening and fit the magnet inside the opening it should stick to the bolt itself.
It will stay closed only as long as the bolt stays still.
The first time the bolt moves, either cambering a round or firing, the cover will pop open with no need for any kind of machine work on the bolt itself.
You might have to fiddle around with the magnet mounting to get it in far enough, maybe double or triple layer it to touch the bolt body. But it should be doable.
 
Have you considered gluing something like a rubber refrigerator magnet to the inside of the cover?
If you spring load the cover and fit it so it extends about 1/8" all around the opening and fit the magnet inside the opening it should stick to the bolt itself.


The cover I've been working on now has a "T" like ridge in the center where it used to be simply round like the contour of the upper around the bolt.
I wasn't planning on doing anything to the bolt though. The magnet idea is interesting but would there be any chance of a magnet disrupting the springs
and firing pin inside the bolt? I thought about using a magnet as a way to keep the cover open.

I don't have a real AR so I'm at a loss as far as how the real ejection port covers work. I see they are a simple hinge wih a spring
to keep tension on them to stay open or closed, but how do they stay locked open? Are they meant to stay closed and only open to let a spent casing out?
 
Even for a mock-up that is pretty impressive. For my attempt I'm going to try use black plastic so I can heat shape it, and use some little brass hinges.
 
Thanks! It's looking even better now that I've started painting it. Are you figuring on spring loading yours? Or making it so it blows open when firing? Post some pics I'm curious to see your idea..
 
The magnet idea is interesting but would there be any chance of a magnet disrupting the springs
and firing pin inside the bolt? I thought about using a magnet as a way to keep the cover open.

The magnet needed to have that kind of effect would permanently stop your wrist watch. So no, the kind of magnets used on a fridge would work just fine and I suggested using the rubberized version to reduce the chance of it scratching the bolt.

I don't have a real AR so I'm at a loss as far as how the real ejection port covers work. I see they are a simple hinge wih a spring
to keep tension on them to stay open or closed, but how do they stay locked open? Are they meant to stay closed and only open to let a spent casing out?

The dust cover is spring loaded to the open position and needs to be manually closed. It snaps into position with a recessed ball at the top. It operates like the lock on a socket wrench handle.
It can be 'latched' closed while the bolt is in the open or closed position. There is an angle cut on the front of the bolt carrier to knock it open as the bolt closes and a notch in the middle that will kick it open if its closed.
 
The magnet needed to have that kind of effect would permanently stop your wrist watch. So no, the kind of magnets used on a fridge would work just fine and I suggested using the rubberized version to reduce the chance of it scratching the bolt.



The dust cover is spring loaded to the open position and needs to be manually closed. It snaps into position with a recessed ball at the top. It operates like the lock on a socket wrench handle.
It can be 'latched' closed while the bolt is in the open or closed position. There is an angle cut on the front of the bolt carrier to knock it open as the bolt closes and a notch in the middle that will kick it open if its closed.

Okay, I see now. Thank you. I will try the magnet idea out and post how it works out. I need to get to the hardware store and find an appropriate spring for the hinge. I'll also post some more photos later to show the progression of the cover.
 
Man I love this place its like arts and crafts back in high school :D Too bad most of us don't have metal shops like belt-fed my girlfriend would dump me I never would be home hahah
 
Man I love this place its like arts and crafts back in high school :D Too bad most of us don't have metal shops like belt-fed my girlfriend would dump me I never would be home hahah

Tell me about it. I've been doing this with a dull pair of tin snips, a leatherman, sand paper and my bare hands...If my girlfriend wasn't so busy with nursing school she'd of dumped my *** long ago! Haha!!
 
Thanks! It's looking even better now that I've started painting it. Are you figuring on spring loading yours? Or making it so it blows open when firing? Post some pics I'm curious to see your idea..

No spring for me, I'm going to put a flat 3mm magnet on the top and bottom of the port and on the cover so it "locks" open or closed. If it doesn't interfere with ejection, I'll let it blow open. Other wise I'll attach a small wedge on the inside that the bolt will smack when it closes and pop it open.
 
No spring for me, I'm going to put a flat 3mm magnet on the top and bottom of the port and on the cover so it "locks" open or closed. If it doesn't interfere with ejection, I'll let it blow open. Other wise I'll attach a small wedge on the inside that the bolt will smack when it closes and pop it open.
Your better off spring loading it open, holding it closed for any lenght of time more than needed is probably going to cause feed/ejection problems.
I don't believe that an empty .22LR shell case has either the mechanical advantage or mass needed to reliably knock open the port every time if the magnet your using is big enough to hold it closed under normal handling conditions.
Using a spring will also force the door to open faster and wider while keeping it from bouncing up in the way of successive ejected cases.
Putting a wedge on the door might work fine if your going to run around with the bolt held open all the time.
But without a cutout in the side of the bolt the door is not going to be able to close when the bolt is in battery.
 
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Putting a wedge on the door might work fine if your going to run around with the bolt held open all the time.
But without a cutout in the side of the bolt the door is not going to be able to close when the bolt is in battery.

But if the bolt is closed, why do you need a dust cover ;)

The magnets are tiny, and without a spring, there is not any force to overcome to keep the cover closed.
 
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