Early K-22 Extraction Issues

[OutWest50]

There are frequent posts regarding the known issues of early era K-22's having difficult extraction until the condition is remedied by use of a cylinder reamer.

I have a Model 17 from mid-1970's that has never had extraction problems, but my 1958 Model 18 definitely did until I reamed it.

I have not heard anyone say whether the early K-22's had difficult ejection issues "back in the day" with ammo from THAT era. IF not, that may indicate that ammo has changed over the years in some manner (i.e. higher pressure?, thinner brass?).

I've never read any discussion whether or not the early K-22 cylinders were difficult to eject with early ammo or only with ammo produced from the ~1970's foreward.

Maybe somebody on the forum has some insight into the issue?

 

[Bruceboy]

A switch to Federal Value Pack resolved all my issues with my .22 S&W revolvers. Cheap, available & accurate. Worth a try,

Al

 

[alwslate]

I have a pre model 17 made in 52 or 53, K 191069 that has no extraction problems. My 18-4 however was basically unusable until I reamed the chambers. From reading many posts on here about chamber problems with various S&W 22s I think the problem is with individual revolvers and is not model or production era specific.

 

[SkunkApe]

I have a pre model 17 made in 52 or 53, K 191069 that has no extraction problems. My 18-4 however was basically unusable until I reamed the chambers. From reading many posts on here about chamber problems with various S&W 22s I think the problem is with individual revolvers and is not model or production era specific.

I have an 18-8 that is very tight when chambering most brands (CCI Mini Mags being the exception.)

I have scrubbed the heck out the the chambers, but the problem persists.


I’m considering buying a reamer. Can you tell me which brand/model you have?

Brownells has Manson reamers, but they offer a “finisher” and a “finisher cylinder”, and the difference is not clear to me.

MANSON PRECISION Rimfire Cartridge, .22 Long Rifle Finisher (Cyl) | Brownells

 

[Protocall_Design]

The difference is the pilot on the end. For a cylinder, the pilot is bullet size to fit the throats at the front of the cylinder. For a regular one, semi auto, single shot, rifle, etc., the pilot is smaller to fit in the rifling, as the chamber is part of the barrel.

Manson reamers are the best ones. You want the "finisher cylinder" style.

 

[alwslate]

Mine looks like the "finisher cylinder". The reamer is for the cylinder and is straight to a cutter that will square up the rear face of the chamber that the ctg. rim seats on.

 

[SkunkApe]

The difference is the pilot on the end. For a cylinder, the pilot is bullet size to fit the throats at the front of the cylinder. For a regular one, semi auto, single shot, rifle, etc., the pilot is smaller to fit in the rifling, as the chamber is part of the barrel.

Manson reamers are the best ones. You want the "finisher cylinder" style.

Thanks to you as well.

 

[Marlin57M]

The difference is the pilot on the end. For a cylinder, the pilot is bullet size to fit the throats at the front of the cylinder. For a regular one, semi auto, single shot, rifle, etc., the pilot is smaller to fit in the rifling, as the chamber is part of the barrel.

Manson reamers are the best ones. You want the "finisher cylinder" style.

Yes, I bought a Manson. It is a great reamer and have loaned to others for use.

My Model 17 shipped in 1964 required reaming, my K-22 shipped in 1952 did not, but my 22/32 Target (pre Model 35) shipped in 1955 did require reaming.

 

[steelslaver]

I really do not think in this case that it really matters if it is a cylinder or bore pilot reamer. Your just removing a very tiny uniform amount from the chamber. Every one I have done the reamer goes 1/3 to 1/2 way in before it even starts to cut and then they only cut very fine chips. There is no reason that either would not cut and stay centered doing so. Unless you were grossly heavy handed you couldn't cock either type and if your that heavy handed you shouldn't even be taking a side plate off.

But the regular reamer pilot is about .208 (I have both cylinder and bore type, as well as a 22 mag reamer) so it rides on the lands so you can cut a complete chamber from a raw bore.

A cylinder reamer has a groove sized pilot that should match your cylinder throats.

 

[alwslate]

The cylinder of my 18-4 required removing a considerable amount of metal from the chambers. I had to ream each chamber in several steps, cleaning the chips from the reamer and reinserting it. So they are not all the same and the "finisher cylinder" was definitely needed.

 

[cmansguns]

remove cylinder, soft jaw vise, use tap handle for reamer

I had to ream a 1972 M 17-3 and both of my M 34-1 revolvers, but not my K22's (1947 and 1948).

In all cases where I needed to ream, I used the Manson Finisher Reamer, a tap handle that fits the drive lug on the reamer, and a soft jaw vise. The reaming process is not heavy machining, it is just very lightly turning the reamer (in ONE direction only), while keeping some generous drops of Tap Magic or equal cutting fluid.

My results were no chips of discernable size, mostly shaving dust. Remember to leave the extractor rod and star in stalled while reaming so that the seat of both cylinder and star are "skimmed" lightly at the same time.

I don't think it is ammo related at all because mine wouldn't seat any brand unril reaming and all are fine now.

 

[cmansguns]

Don't forget to disassemble and clean thoroughly!

I forgot to add that which should be self evident, but a friendly reminder if you have never been involved with machining metal.

After reaming, you MUST disassemble the extractor rod, star and spring from the cylinder and really, thoroughly clean all residue, machining chips and dust, residual cutting fluid, debris from all pieces before reinstalling into the revolver.

Remember that the modern guns have left hand thread. To avoid bending or excessive force you may wish to use a S&W extractor rod tool. It saves you some grief and comes in handy for all S&W revos, even ones that don't need reaming.

 

[alwslate]

cmansguns your reamer is the "finisher cylinder" reamer.

 

[steelslaver]

A rougher reamer is slightly under sized and would produce a very tight or unusable chamber. They are general used on bottle neck cartridges to remove the majority of the metal be for using a finishing reamer. This keeps the finishing reamer from wearing.

If you could get a 22 round in your chambers there is no way you would remove that much metal. If you ream a unchambered 22lr bore you will partially fill the slots between cutters with chips maybe 5 or 6 times

When I turn a 44 mag cylinder into a 45 colt, I firs go with a reamer that has a .429 pilot and .452 cutters, then use a 45 chamber reamer with a .452 pilot. When running the chamber reamer I cut about 1/4 depth remove clean oil, 1/2 remove clean oil etc till finished and I am cutting way more metal than a reworking a 22lr chamber. I have cleaned up some 22 lr chambers I do those by hand. Cutting actual chambers, I use my mill at maybe 50-60 rpm. Making a 32 chamber from a 22 chamber I first ream with a 17/64 (.266) then a 19/64 (.297)), then use a .297 piloted chamber reamer

 

[SkunkApe]

https://i.imgur.com/CVe4trO.jpg

Got the reamer today, and did it. Now the rounds slide right in: snick, snick, snick.

Used the pictured pin vise to hold the reamer, and did it by hand. Reamer is a .250 round shank, with a flat spot. (Tap hand won’t work.)

Kind of a PITA - if I do another, I’ll probably use the drill press.

But I didn’t want to mess up - I really like the 18-3, and I’m pleased with the results.

Thanks to all who advised.