Ejector Rod Fitting?

[alde]

I recently picked up a great looking 67-1. The only thing wrong with it is the end of the ejector rod is buggered up from pliers. I picked up a new rod and want to replace it. Anything I need to watch for? I have a proper tool to remove and install the rod so that's easy. I am more worried about actual fitting.

Thanks for any hints.

 

[Mike McLellan]

As long as the length is the same (all of them are not the same), and the new one is left-handed thread, it should work. Light dressing may be required at the locking bolt. Don't throw out the old one.

 

[USBP SW]

Basically, what the previous gentleman mentioned is what is necessary. The center pin must be parallel to the top of the ejector rod to release the cylinder without hanging up. Also, the bevel at the tip must be retained.

Good luck, Steve

 

[alde]

I appreciate the tips. I will try to get to it tonight and past back on how it goes.

 

[jepp2]

1. make sure you put some fired casings in the cylinder BEFORE you start turning.
2. with center pin fully pressed forward it need to be very slightly proud (protrude) from the extractor rod.
3. what ever you use to shorten it with, maintain the end as square to the rod. Don't be sloppy.
4. when you have everything apart is a very good time to do a thorough cleaning.

 

[alde]

Gentleman, We have a successful repair. I lucked out and it dropped in with no fitting. I measured them and the new one was .003" longer so I put it together and the center pin just goes flush and it opens and closes without binding.

I really appreciate all the help. I enjoy doing this stuff myself but want to do it right.

Thanks guys, Al