Ejector rod stuck. Will not unscrew.

[andyo5]

I have a new 686+ that went back to the factory a few months ago because it had a bad extractor. The ratchets were poorly machined. Whoever worked on it replaced the extractor with a different one. What I am finding now is that the extractor rod and extractor appear stuck together. I cannot separate them.
My procedure is to clamp the extractor rod in a vice, using wooden blocks to protect it from damage. Load seven empty cases into the cylinder, and try to turn the cylinder clockwise (due to reverse threads). The extractor rod always turns with the cylinder, no matter how much I tighten the vice.
So far, no damage to any of the parts. But I am reluctant to try and use more extreme measures.
Is my method correct? I think it is.
Is there something I have overlooked?

Thanks!

 

[armorer951]

You might try clamping the rod in the vice with a different protective barrier like leather or similar. Also, it helps to have as much of the rod as possible in the jaws of the vice, so that the force of the vice is distributed evenly, all along the surface of the rod. Rosin, if you have any, will also help keep the rod from turning inside the compressed fixture, whatever fixture you are using, or decide to use.

Soaking the entire assembly in something, like Kroil perhaps, might also help.

 

[andyo5]

You might try clamping the rod in the vice with a different protective barrier like leather or similar. Also, it helps to have as much of the rod as possible in the jaws of the vice, so that the force of the vice is distributed evenly, all along the surface of the rod. Rosin, if you have any, will also help keep the rod from turning inside the compresed fixture, whatever you are using.

The other aspect of this is that I am surprised that so much force is required to unscrew the extractor from the rod. Normally they break free without the need to exert so much force. Am I wrong?

 

[armorer951]

The other question is whether or not intrusion into the assembly is required.

 

[andyo5]

The other question is whether or not intrusion into the assembly is required.

You mean, like cutting it apart?

 

[walnutred]

I think he is trying to say that disassembly that far is not part of routine maintenance.

 

[walter o]

like is it necessary to remove the ejector rod assembly ?

 

[steelslaver]

Some guys use a 1/2" drill chuck tightened on the rod to hold it.

You could Take a piece of aluminum or brass 1/2" thick or thicker. Drill a ejector rod size hole through it. Use a hack saw, port a band or what ever to split it in half right in the center of the hole. Use that as "pads: on the rod clamped tight tight in the vice and you should be able to use the cylinder with cases to unscrew it.

My rod tool is basically a brass 1/2 x 1" bar that I drilled a couple of ejector side holes in the center line of 1" side holes in, then turned on its side and drilled a 17/64" hole near each end of the 1/2 side. Then I sawed it in half down the 1" center line and the holes in it. Tapped the end holes on one side to 5/16-24 and drilled the other side holes out to 11/32. Bolted tightly together on a rod it really clamps on to a rod.

Similar to this tool
Power Custom Revolver Extractor Rod Removal Tool

Ya, good point. Why are you taking it apart anyway.

 

[AveragEd]

The Power Custom tool is exactly what I use with no problems whatsoever. The right tool for the job and all that...

Ed

 

[armorer951]

You mean, like cutting it apart?

No, I'm just wondering why you're trying to take it apart in the first place? Parts replacement perhaps?

That's really not a group of parts that you should need (or want) to regularly disassemble.

 

[ken158]

You just had it factory repaired so why are you taking it apart well past recommended cleaning procedure? Maybe the factory guy thought someone had been messing with it and installed loctite?

 

[andyo5]

No, I'm just wondering why you're trying to take it apart in the first place? Parts replacement perhaps? That's really not a group of parts that you should need (or want) to regularly disassemble.

The factory guy installed an extractor that is still rough and not much better than the original. I want to take the ejector off so I can file off some bumps that don't belong there, without risking the file accidentally touching the cylinder itself. This should not be difficult.
If the factory guy used loctite, it would have to have been red loctite because blue loctite would have let go by now. He also may have cross threaded the threads. In either case, it should not be permanently attached. Most of the time there is an issue, it involves ones that are too loose, not too tight.

 

[andyo5]

You just had it factory repaired so why are you taking it apart well past recommended cleaning procedure? Maybe the factory guy thought someone had been messing with it and installed loctite?

Ken, nobody had been messing with it. I never attempted to remove the original part. There is absolutely no good reason to loctite the parts together.

 

[Tom S.]

A trick I learned to use with drill chucks to help avoid drill bits from turning is tighten it with the chuck key, then move the key to the next hole and tighten some more (there's almost always more "give"). As for tools for the job, I have a pair of Brownell's devices that are both old and capable.

 

[hogblue]

If it’s under warranty call the plant when this virus thing is over and send it back. It’s still on their dime.

 

[andyo5]

If it’s under warranty call the plant when this virus thing is over and send it back. It’s still on their dime.

Recent experience with the factory warranty tells me that if I really need expert help to seek a qualified local gunsmith. Remember, it was a factory guy who put this extractor on in the first place.
The only time I have had any issues with extractor rods were when they loosened and the cylinder would not rotate properly. I have never heard of one that was so tight that it would resist the method that I have already tried today.

 

[andyo5]

Here's what I am talking about. The arrow point to protrusions that the hand has to drag over after cylinder lockup. I have dealt with it by using the thin wooden blocks to stand the extractor away from the cylinder while I worked on it. A few file strokes on each ratchet tip removed most or all of this. It feels alot better and I think I will call it quits. I still think the extractor should be able to unscrew. If I ever need to do it on this one, its probably going to a gunsmith.

 

[oldbrownhat]

Is there something I have overlooked?

Ummm.... is it LH or RH thread?

 

[walnutred]

I'm no expert but I would polish those without removing the extractor. I'd remove the cylinder and put it in a padded vice. Open the ejector and place a piece of wood under the star to hold it up. If your worried about dust or filings getting in the chambers simply shove a cotton ball into each chamber from the chamber mouth. Not to sound harsh but if you don't think you can polish those out without damaging a chamber maybe you should rethink the project. To my untrained eye that looks like a simple hand tool polish job, which a power tool like a Dremel could make go south fast. But I'm no gunsmith and don't play one on the internet.

 

[federali]

Threading

Smiths use left hand threads on the extractor. Turn it right to unscrew.