Electro stencil on frame and cylinder

[TheGrinch]

Hey guys I need some help on here. I'm waiting for my new model 36 from 1976 I just got off gunbroker, the cylinder and frame has an agency etching on it that is just an absolute eye sore. I'm just curious was is the best way to get around on having it removed? I plan on getting the gun refinished and I'm contemplating doing it myself or sending it to SW

 

[2152hq]

If S&W doe the refinish, it'll be gone with the polishing they do as a standard step in the refinishing process.

If you want to do the polishing and refinishing, the marking can be removed cleanly by hand methods.

It doesn't look very deep, so I'd stay away from taking even a very fine file to the area. I'd go right to grit paper,,about 220 or maybe heavier like 180 if the 220 doesn't take it down right away.
Back the paper with a wide smooth file to keep the area flat and smooth.
Work the area with the curve of the cylinder. Criss-cross the polishing marks slightly so you can see where you are removing metal.
This also makes you able to see where you have removed the coarser grit marks completely when you go on to the finer grits as you polish further.

Once the damage is gone, it's just a matter of how bright you want to polish the area up to.
If you are trying to match the surrounding areas and match the bluing that will be done, that takes some experience with both the polishing and bluing techniques.
If doing a full polish and then reblue,,then polish the complete cylinder to what ever degree you want.
Then go on to the frame and other parts as well.
Then re-blue.

If you have a belt grinder and experience with it in polishing flat and curved surfaces,,they are very useful at polishing the cylinder and other pieces.
BUT,, you can ruin a cylinder in quick order if not careful with one.
It would seem to be easy to mearly glide the cylinder surfaces around as they touch the grit belt against the backing (platen) on the machine.
But if you do that w/o compensating for the flutes not offering any support as you happily turn the surface to the belt, you will end up quickly funneling out the flute edges on each of them. Especially at the breech end of the cylinder.

It takes practice to polish w/ any power equipment while holding the parts by hand.
However the results can be outstanding. Just look at any pre-war or early postwar Colt, S&W, Winchester, etc.

Just stay away from soft wheel buffer polishes. They have made a lot of shiny metal over time, but a lot of ruined polishing jobs as well.

 

[TheGrinch]

If S&W doe the refinish, it'll be gone with the polishing they do as a standard step in the refinishing process.

If you want to do the polishing and refinishing, the marking can be removed cleanly by hand methods.

It doesn't look very deep, so I'd stay away from taking even a very fine file to the area. I'd go right to grit paper,,about 220 or maybe heavier like 180 if the 220 doesn't take it down right away.
Back the paper with a wide smooth file to keep the area flat and smooth.
Work the area with the curve of the cylinder. Criss-cross the polishing marks slightly so you can see where you are removing metal.
This also makes you able to see where you have removed the coarser grit marks completely when you go on to the finer grits as you polish further.

Once the damage is gone, it's just a matter of how bright you want to polish the area up to.
If you are trying to match the surrounding areas and match the bluing that will be done, that takes some experience with both the polishing and bluing techniques.
If doing a full polish and then reblue,,then polish the complete cylinder to what ever degree you want.
Then go on to the frame and other parts as well.
Then re-blue.

If you have a belt grinder and experience with it in polishing flat and curved surfaces,,they are very useful at polishing the cylinder and other pieces.
BUT,, you can ruin a cylinder in quick order if not careful with one.
It would seem to be easy to mearly glide the cylinder surfaces around as they touch the grit belt against the backing (platen) on the machine.
But if you do that w/o compensating for the flutes not offering any support as you happily turn the surface to the belt, you will end up quickly funneling out the flute edges on each of them. Especially at the breech end of the cylinder.

It takes practice to polish w/ any power equipment while holding the parts by hand.
However the results can be outstanding. Just look at any pre-war or early postwar Colt, S&W, Winchester, etc.

Just stay away from soft wheel buffer polishes. They have made a lot of shiny metal over time, but a lot of ruined polishing jobs as well.

Thank you for this! Yeah I'm going back and forth on if I want to do it myself or send it in and I might send it in to SW since it's only 220 to get it done

 

[Retired W4]

Did they have to put the title, sub title and the first chapter on that thing? Wow.

 

[s&wchad]

Just ignore the markings and shoot/carry it. I've got several guns with similar electro pencil ID's that were purchased cheap.

Police Departments thought that was a good idea back in the day and even loaned out the engraving tools. They did similar things to guns that were taken into evidence. What a bonehead thing to do! The guns already have unique identifying marks (serial numbers).

I wouldn't sink any more money into it. You're not dealing with a Holy Grail.

 

[MygunisaS&Wrevolver]

You could look for another cylinder and have it have it fitted by a gunsmith. Would probably save you a lot of polishing and refinishing expense. Just a thought?

 

[CH4]

Or just rotate the cylinder so the numbers are at the 6 or 12 o'clock.

 

[TheGrinch]

Just ignore the markings and shoot/carry it. I've got several guns with similar electro pencil ID's that were purchased cheap.

Police Departments thought that was a good idea back in the day and even loaned out the engraving tools. They did similar things to guns that were taken into evidence. What a bonehead thing to do! The guns already have unique identifying marks (serial numbers).

I wouldn't sink any more money into it. You're not dealing with a Holy Grail.

I know but I got a different conceal carry, I just enjoy collecting revolvers. I treat them like newborn babies and like to keep them nice and pristine they are more for showing off than carrying

 

[gmborkovic]

Hello Grinch, what did it cost you after all the fees? I know, rude question.

 

[s&wchad]

I know but I got a different conceal carry, I just enjoy collecting revolvers. I treat them like newborn babies and like to keep them nice and pristine they are more for showing off than carrying

Then you shouldn't buy guns like this. S&W made a boatload of Chief Specials and many are in excellent condition. A refinish doesn't make it new again and and it's almost guaranteed you won't recover the cost of the gun plus the refinish.

I know that's not what you want to hear, but I'm not going to blow smoke.

 

[TheGrinch]

Then you shouldn't buy guns like this. S&W made a boatload of Chief Specials and many are in excellent condition. A refinish doesn't make it new again and and it's almost guaranteed you won't recover the cost of the gun plus the refinish.

I know that's not what you want to hear, but I'm not going to blow smoke.

Good thing it's not your money

 

[TheGrinch]

Hello Grinch, what did it cost you after all the fees? I know, rude question.

500 all in

 

[steelslaver]

IF you decide to sand it off, first take a 2 or 4 oz ball peen hammer and use the flat face to tap tap rap the markings lightly. Make sure the hammer face is smooth and not marred up. The elector pencil did not remove any metal. It just displaced it. Doing as I described will move part of it back. Less sanding and metal removal needed. Use something to back up your sand paper especially on flat surfaces to keep it flat. On the J frame cylinder it is 1.3" OD so you could cut a piece of 1 1/2" pipe length wise and use the inside of it.

No way cold blue can do a big area and really look right though. I removed all the import marks off some J&G gunsmith specials that way. But I have made a small hot blue set up. The cost of having it done isn't worth it.

 

[newtonguitars]

What bothers me is that you will be removing some metal on the thinnest part of the cylinder, just over the cartridge. I would let S&W do the job, they know how far it too far.

 

[minconrevo]

Odds are that marking is a case number. First 2 letters case type, next 2 year, balance case number. Case must be resolved, otherwise the gun would not have been released. If you can find the case online in your state or another likely nearby one you can read about it if you want; don't think I'd bother.

If it were mine it would likely go back to S&W for a refinish. If they can't do a polish blue then there is always their satin.

 

[THE PILGRIM]

Just the other day I was doing a Grip Flop.
Was surprised to see some etching on the side of the grip, on the bottom.
Just glad it's hid behind the grips.

 

[stanmerrell]

I like it as is. Some dept guns are marked up, but to me, it adds to the character of the piece. It's a nice revolver as is. Just enjoy it for what it is.

 

[Elroy]

I would offer this link as applicable to your issue at hand

The Chief Gets a New Uniform

 

[steelslaver]

What bothers me is that you will be removing some metal on the thinnest part of the cylinder, just over the cartridge. I would let S&W do the job, they know how far it too far.

As none of the markings are nearly as deep as the stock notch, i wouldn't be very worried about a thousands. Plus, they now make the same diameter cylinder with the same steel in 357. If removing .001-2 of steel weakens it to the point of concern there was zero margin to begin with.

I will say that who ever came up with the idea of marking it there for what ever possible reason needs IDIOT tattooed on their forehead

 

[stansdds]

As none of the markings are nearly as deep as the stock notch, i wouldn't be very worried about a thousands. Plus, they now make the same diameter cylinder with the same steel in 357. If removing .001-2 of steel weakens it to the point of concern there was zero margin to begin with.

I will say that who ever came up with the idea of marking it there for what ever possible reason needs IDIOT tattooed on their forehead

I agree on both points. Probably perfectly safe to peen, then smooth and polish the area over the chamber and the frame is where you want a property number.