End shake, Crane stretcher, shims, reamers etc

[Model29-26.5]

I have a few models with some end shake that need addressing.
I’ve watched some very helpful videos on Y YouTube, that demonstrate the shim method and the crane stretch method.
The Crane stretch method in someways, seems to be almost a more simple fix, and a more permanent one and so far as that you do not need to unscrew the cylinder from the rod..

Have any of you guys had any experience with these methods?
Any advice??

Brownell’s is out of crane stretchers and reamers right now.

I could take it to my local gunsmith, but frankly, I’m wanting to do this myself as it’s all part of the hobby and learning.
I figured at least one or two of my recent purchases would have an issue or two, so I figure I need to buy some tools for these and any future purchases, as well as other models that might develop problems later on.
Good to be prepared.

Thanks

 

[robertrwalsh]

I have done both. I have not actually done any crane stretching for years. I learned it at the S&W revolver armorers school. I prefer the washer method as it is much harder to screw up. Unscrewing the rod is not that big a deal, at least not after you break it loose. Sometimes they REALLY stuck and don't want to come apart. But I never did a LOT of it either way so maybe I was just more comfortable with one over the other.

 

[Protocall_Design]

Fixing endshake is maintenance as well as repair. If you shoot a revolver long enough, even with light target loads, eventually it will develop some endshake.

I prefer the crane stretcher for that job. The end of the crane is always rough and not square. For either stretch or shim, you need to true up the end of the crane tube with a piloted cutting tool. The pilot is 5/16". If you don't square the end, the cylinder is just riding on a high spot on the end, and will develop endshake again fairly quickly as the high spot gets hammered down by recoil. With a full contact end, it takes a long time for endshake to come back.

Some cranes have an undersized hole. In that case, you need a .3135 chucking reamer with a handle on it to straighten and size the hole. Once the hole is correctly sized, the pilot will easily slide in. You also need a 5/16 steel mandrel in there if stretching, to keep the tube from getting swaged smaller in that part. This also gives the tube metal only one direction it can go, which is lengthwise.

It's common to stretch a bit over and need to trim back a thou. or two with the piloted trim tool. The stretching is not an exact thing like using shims. The older cranes are a lot softer metal than newer ones, so you need to regulate how much force you are using with the stretcher, depending on the metal you're dealing with.

You can square up the end, measure the starting length with a caliper, stretch a little bit, measure your progress, keeping track of how much you are moving it.

 

[Vtgw938]

I to have done both with basic tools, no special ones. I use the shims now and I use a Lee case trimmer with a .308 pilot as I recall to square the yoke. You have to work to get them to come out during cleaning.

 

[USBP SW]

I have shims but I have not used them, I have used the crane stretcher. The last time I used it was on a model 28-3. I was checking out the revolver at the lgs and used the endshake to negotiate an eighty dollar discount on the asking price.

 

[Model29-26.5]

Much appreciated guys. Great info.

 

[WR Moore]

While the yoke barrel stretch is the factory approved method, there's an issue with it. Actually several, but those extras are the tooling needed.

The major issue with the yoke barrel stretch is that you're reducing the cross section of the tube. This makes it a weak spot.

OTOH, the shim system doesn't involve creating more potential issues with a mostly factory only part (the yoke) and is easily modified if/when needed.

 

[chief38]

I prefer Stainless Steel Shims. They are easily adjustable with adding or removing and can be removed if necessary.

 

[Model29-26.5]

While the yoke barrel stretch is the factory approved method, there's an issue with it. Actually several, but those extras are the tooling needed.

The major issue with the yoke barrel stretch is that you're reducing the cross section of the tube. This makes it a weak spot.

OTOH, the shim system doesn't involve creating more potential issues with a mostly factory only part (the yoke) and is easily modified if/when needed.

Yes. I figure if you’re stretching, then the yoke is thinning making more potential for it to get squashed again under stress and create end shake again.
In the video I saw, the guy said to stretch close to the end. What difference would it make? Wouldn’t you want to stretch just a little by little all the way up the yoke so that the stretching is uniform??

With this all said, these are not going get fired much.
I’ll get them all in sheet and shoot the shooters, and I’d be surprised if I put more than 50 rounds a year through them.
I would like to get them in shape though.

 

[pantannojack]

In all my life, I have never lived close to a functioning G Smith. They all seem to be thousands of miles away. So I have used the shim method, but I believe the stretcher to be better if done carefully.

 

[Model29-26.5]

In all my life, I have never lived close to a functioning G Smith. They all seem to be thousands of miles away. So I have used the shim method, but I believe the stretcher to be better if done carefully.

I love pretty close to one who I will soon visit, but really I’m wanting to get to know an enthusiast who can show me the ropes when it comes to basic fixing. End shake.. anything that doesn’t require lot of practiced skill. Some reloading etc, although I may see a lathe in my future.
We’ll see.
I have a 28-2 “polished” bubba gun with which to perform Frankenstein practice surgeries, and experiment a little.
Certainly nothing major that will end up with me having 8 fingers and one working eye..

 

[dfariswheel]

A stretcher can be made from a small tubing cutter by rounding off the cutting wheel so it rolls a groove, not a cut.

Properly done a washer installed with grease is usually a lifetime repair.

Before installing a stainless washer trimming the end of the shaft to true it up gives full contact, and of course this is needed after the stretching method.
In a pinch, just installing a greased washer requires little tooling and is easier.

Bottom line is that either method is extremely long lasting, if not for the life of the gun, and neither is really better then the other.

It's smart to learn proper cylinder disassembly to avoid possible damage.
Disassembly can be done with a padded vise and three empty cartridge cases.

 

[Model29-26.5]

A stretcher can be made from a small tubing cutter by rounding off the cutting wheel so it rolls a groove, not a cut.

Properly done a washer installed with grease is usually a lifetime repair.

Before installing a stainless washer trimming the end of the shaft to true it up gives full contact, and of course this is needed after the stretching method.
In a pinch, just installing a greased washer requires little tooling and is easier.

Bottom line is that either method is extremely long lasting, if not for the life of the gun, and neither is really better then the other.

It's smart to learn proper cylinder disassembly to avoid possible damage.
Disassembly can be done with a padded vise and three empty cartridge cases.

Thank you.
I also figure that if the crane metal has become slightly compressed, if the washer method is used, the compressed metal of the crane will last longer than a stretched crane.
I guess we’re talking about thousands of rounds though which I doubt I will ever shoot

 

[raljr1]

I had to look up a video on crane stretching...the name misled me...i am smarter now, well, maybe not