bczrx
Member
Endshake on S&W revolvers should be under .003", correct?
I have two revolvers that I have measured and which need to be fixed. I'd like your input as to if I am on the right track or if I should change the shim/bearing thickness I am considering ordering from TriggerShims dot com.
29-2:
686-4+:
686-4 + is a 3.5" barreled PC Lew Horton special [with compensator port at tip] from 1996. It was having some issues with ignition on one brand of ammo. Shimming cylinder to rear should help this. BUT, this would leave a BC gap of .010-.011". This is within modern S&W specs of under .012", but seems large.
Any concerns?
Should I instead ask S&W to turn barrel down and reinstall to reduce gap and take up endshake at same time?
What are your thoughts?
I have two revolvers that I have measured and which need to be fixed. I'd like your input as to if I am on the right track or if I should change the shim/bearing thickness I am considering ordering from TriggerShims dot com.
29-2:
- Forward measurement of .0015". Rearward/thrust measurement of .011". Total endshake of .0095".
- Plan: install .008" shim/bearing, leaving around .0015" of endshake.
- Or, should I shoot for a .009" shim and leave only about .0005" of endshake?
686-4+:
- Forward measurement of .006". Rearward/thrust measurement of .011". Total endshake of .005".
- Plan: Install .004" shim/bearing, leaving .001" of endshake.
- Or, should I shoot for a .005" shim/bearing and leave no measureable endshake?
686-4 + is a 3.5" barreled PC Lew Horton special [with compensator port at tip] from 1996. It was having some issues with ignition on one brand of ammo. Shimming cylinder to rear should help this. BUT, this would leave a BC gap of .010-.011". This is within modern S&W specs of under .012", but seems large.
Any concerns?
Should I instead ask S&W to turn barrel down and reinstall to reduce gap and take up endshake at same time?
What are your thoughts?
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