Endurance Package Installed on 29-2 "UPDATE"
- Thread starter 243winxb
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Protocall_Design
Vendor
The erosion around the forcing cone is caused by the 296 ball powder. In the high pressure loads, ball powder is sandblasting the back of the barrel every shot. The H110/W296 is a good magnum powder except for this aspect of it.
Dieseltech56
Member
Usually it's pretty easy to tell but honestly I can't determine if that's erosion or leading, usually erosion is more uniform and not as jagged if that makes sense. Do the charge holes on the front of the cylinder have lead rings too?
A 250 cast if it's not hard enough or sized properly will definitely lead with 23 gr H110, that is definitely a max or near max load.
A 250 cast if it's not hard enough or sized properly will definitely lead with 23 gr H110, that is definitely a max or near max load.
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23 grains of H-110/W-296 with a hard cast lead 250 grain SWC should be close to, but not beyond safe pressure levels. I do think that slow burning ball propellant is not the best choice for cast lead bullets. You might have less leading and you will have less erosion with a flake powder like 2400.
No leading on cylinder front. I do add linotype to the wheel weight & scrap. Dont test hardness.
Shooting the same 296/250gr load for many years. Sized to .430" works best.
Tried the match throat diameter thing, with larger .4315" Produced poor accuracy.
Barrel slugged at .4295"
Shooting the same 296/250gr load for many years. Sized to .430" works best.
Tried the match throat diameter thing, with larger .4315" Produced poor accuracy.
Barrel slugged at .4295"
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My 29 Classic Hunter developed the backwards rotating cylinder and was sent back for the Endurance Package upgrade during the late 80's. Came back with whatever they did to it at no charge. During the last 30+ years it hasn't failed me once. Sorry to hear your repair didn't last.
S.B.
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It has always been my impression that all the Classic revolvers of 30 years back came with the Endurance package installed?
Steve
If the cylinder stop doesn't hold, it may be because of recoil. Severe frame recoil can cause the cylinder stop to move forward, as the frame moves rearward. This can cause the ball of the stop to cam down slightly, despite the cylinder stop spring tension attempting to hold it in place. Because of this, the stop can disengage momentarily, and the cylinder can rotate.
You might double check to see that the cylinder stop ball is going fully up into the cylinder stop slot. If it is, there should be a slight mark at the bottom of the cylinder slot, indicating that the ball is resting there when the gun is in battery. If there is undisturbed debris in the bottom of the stop slot in the cylinder, this can indicate that the stop is not fully engaged into the bottom of the slot.
If the stop is not "bottoming out" in the slot, you could clean the slot thoroughly, then "let out" the stop slightly by removing material from the adjustment step, as indicated in the photo below. Removing material from the adjustment step will cause the stop to come up higher. This may help the stop hold under recoil. A slightly heavier cylinder stop spring may also help. These "XP", or extra-power springs are available from Wolff.
Prior to adjustment, be sure to check that you have enough (proper amt) material on the trigger hook and cylinder stop bevel interface to accommodate this slight adjustment on the step, as the point of the cylinder stop bevel will be a bit higher when the stop is at rest after the adjustment step has been altered. Adjustments in the cylinder stop adjustment step should be made in small increments, while checking to confirm proper function.
You might double check to see that the cylinder stop ball is going fully up into the cylinder stop slot. If it is, there should be a slight mark at the bottom of the cylinder slot, indicating that the ball is resting there when the gun is in battery. If there is undisturbed debris in the bottom of the stop slot in the cylinder, this can indicate that the stop is not fully engaged into the bottom of the slot.
If the stop is not "bottoming out" in the slot, you could clean the slot thoroughly, then "let out" the stop slightly by removing material from the adjustment step, as indicated in the photo below. Removing material from the adjustment step will cause the stop to come up higher. This may help the stop hold under recoil. A slightly heavier cylinder stop spring may also help. These "XP", or extra-power springs are available from Wolff.
Prior to adjustment, be sure to check that you have enough (proper amt) material on the trigger hook and cylinder stop bevel interface to accommodate this slight adjustment on the step, as the point of the cylinder stop bevel will be a bit higher when the stop is at rest after the adjustment step has been altered. Adjustments in the cylinder stop adjustment step should be made in small increments, while checking to confirm proper function.
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StakeOut
US Veteran
This is a link to an old thread about the endurance package parts.
629-3 Mountain Gun Unusual Hand
629-3 Mountain Gun Unusual Hand
notsofast
Member
No, the first endurance package in the 29-3 would be marked as Model 29-3E. Longer cylinder stop notches were introduced with the Model 29-5. If your Model 29-3 has a cylinder with long stop notches, then it is either some sloppy machine work (it did happen and chances are that the elongation varies in length from notch to notch) or it is a replacement cylinder.
Pisgah
Member
I will bet a dollar to a donut that the "endurance package" they installed was nothing but a stronger cylinder stop spring. This is the identical "endurance package" I installed in my 29-2 30 years ago, and it's still working...
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