Epic 686 jam

[460harry]

Squib bullet is backing out of the forcing cone just enough to reach the cylinder hole. Can't remove cylinder because the squib is locking the cylinder from the forcing cone, and there is a loaded round in the same cylinder hole the squib is backing into.

Is the gun gone? I see no safe way of fixing this. My only though is to perhaps try to get some kroil penetrating oil into the loaded round's gun powder to neutralize the gun powder and then mash the squib and the loaded bullet back into the case enough to open the cylinder.

 

[oysterer]

how? The squip should block the cylinder with the empty shell behind it, how could the cylinder have turned to the next round when then squip had blocked the cylinder from turning?

 

[tominboise]

Well, a gun smith might be able to set it up in a mill and D&T the stuck bullet. Then screw in a long rod, like a cleaning rod, and pull the bullet out the front.

 

[Peak53]

I once had to use a jeweler's saw to cut a lead squib. It is a tiny cable with diamond teeth that fit in the cylinder gap behind the forcing cone. Then I could open the cylinder and drive the squib out

 

[NYlakesider]

how? The squip should block the cylinder with the empty shell behind it, how could the cylinder have turned to the next round when then squip had blocked the cylinder from turning?

Was wondering that also. As a RO I have cleared a lot of slugs trapped by pushing back into chamber/ empty case.

 

[RGNewell]

Well, a gun smith might be able to set it up in a mill and D&T the stuck bullet. Then screw in a long rod, like a cleaning rod, and pull the bullet out the front.

Or remove the barrel

 

[JimCunn]

Squirt Kroil down the barrel. Let sit for a day.
If the round is a hollow point, insert a plastic soda straw into the barrel to protect it, put a flat washer over the muzzle end of the barrel,, and screw a lag screw through the flat washer into the hollowpoint to extract it. Measure the lag screw first to make sure it isn't long enough to reach the live round.

If the bullet is solid nose, run an undersize drill bit into te bullet first -usinh a drill stop to make sure you can't reach the live round, the perform the extraction described for the hollow point.

You might want to use a thin brass tube instead of a soda straw to provide more barrel protection

 

[Doug44]

Maybe you should remove the firing pin. What bullets you using. If a lead bullet might try drilling a hole thru the one stuck in the forcing cone then run a small screw into it with a fine piece of wire to pull the bullet a bit more into the forcing cone. Maybe a fine piece of wire like a guitar string between the cylinder and barrel to possibly cut the bullet into two pieces.

 

[460harry]

Maybe you should remove the firing pin. What bullets you using. If a lead bullet might try drilling a hole thru the one stuck in the forcing cone then run a small screw into it with a fine piece of wire to pull the bullet a bit more into the forcing cone. Maybe a fine piece of wire like a guitar string between the cylinder and barrel to possibly cut the bullet into two pieces.

I removed the spacer between the hammer and the firing pin but cannot remove the firing pin itself because the gun's mechanics are jammed.

 

[460harry]

how? The squip should block the cylinder with the empty shell behind it, how could the cylinder have turned to the next round when then squip had blocked the cylinder from turning?

When I turned the cylinder by cocking it again from single action, I think the squid fell back into the cylinder on the next round. I felt like something was weird because I got such low velocity on the chronograph, so I lowered the hammer. I did not realize what had happened until I tried using a rubber mallet on the cylinder because I assumed the ejector pin had come loose again. By hitting it with the mallet I must have stuck the squib more firmly in place because for whatever reason the hammer will not cock again. I can however see the squib between the forcing cone and the cylinder, and of course looking down the barrel.

 

[460harry]

Squirt Kroil down the barrel. Let sit for a day.
If the round is a hollow point, insert a plastic soda straw into the barrel to protect it, put a flat washer over the muzzle end of the barrel,, and screw a lag screw through the flat washer into the hollowpoint to extract it. Measure the lag screw first to make sure it isn't long enough to reach the live round.

If the bullet is solid nose, run an undersize drill bit into te bullet first -usinh a drill stop to make sure you can't reach the live round, the perform the extraction described for the hollow point.

You might want to use a thin brass tube instead of a soda straw to provide more barrel protection

I saw a gunsmith do this on youtube just now. I believe I will try it.

 

[JimCunn]

Don't put any part of your body (including your eye ) in front of the barrel.

 

[mikerjf]

Isn't there a black-powder tool for removing balls? Has a threaded cone on the end?

 

[oysterer]

Is there a factory round in there? 38 is a long round, if handloaded light maybe enough space to push the squib bullet and next bullet far enough back. I do. not believe there is a tool capable of pulling the bullet all the way through. Pushing back will be the only way with a strong sold brass rod and a 357 brass jag, cut the head pin off and hammer the squib back.

 

[SLT223]

Put piece of cloth over the muzzle and firmly tap it against a bench to see if you can move the squib down bore enough to clear the forcing cone. If that fails you are into a bullet extractor from the muzzle. If that fails I guess you're removing the barrel.

 

[jjfitch]

OOPS!

Have you tried bouncing the gun, muzzle first on a wooden block to see if the bullet will move away from the cylinder?

Sometimes the simplest way turns out to work just fine! But not usually for me!

(Looks like I was typing the same as the above post!)

 

[Nick B]

This has to be the weirdest revolver jam I've ever heard of .

 

[B_Still]

I'm a revolver newbie with less experience than the op, but the main lesson I take from this is that taking a mallet to a revolver, especially a loaded one, is something I will avoid. If I'm ever tempted to do so, I'm heading to a gunsmith instead.

Sent from my LM-G710 using Tapatalk

 

[gwpercle]

When all else fails ... remove the barrel ...
You need to know how to remove and reinstall a barrel and have the right tools to do it ... I would have my local gunsmith do the job ... but that's just me ... all I have is a pipe wrench and a metal vice and no skill.
Gary

 

[GaryHK]

Stick this down the barrel, then drill out the round through the tube with a long bit. Unsure of your barrel length but you'll need the length they use to drill through top plates in homes.

Then use a bigger bit and reverse run it until it backs out enough that you can remove the live round.

Remove the live round then continue with extraction.

Order 0.3125" OD x 0.049" Wall x 0.2145" ID Aluminum Round Tube 6061-T6-Drawn Online, Outer Diameter: 5/16", Wall: 0.049", Inner Diameter: 0.2145"