ever punch an extra hole in a gun belt?

hyena

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I don't want to name the brand, but I have a 1.5 inch gun belt, nearly a quarter inch thick leather. It has holes one inch apart. (Wish they were 3/4.) I would like to punch a hole between two others - one is a hair loose, the other a hair tight. I called the company. They didn't say NO, but they did say it would weaken the leather, and to "be careful". If it will ruin the belt, I can live with the one slightly loose. Anybody here done it? I'm probably over thinking it. Thanks. I can see now why some insist on buckle holes 3/4 inch apart.
 
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I've punched Bianchi, Lawrence and Hunter to name a few. I
use a hammer and punch on most of them. Those punches that
have the different sizes on a wheel that come from hardware
stores don't work well on heavy leather. I have a punch for
sheet metal that has a set of punches with it. It does a perfect
job if the leather thickness will fit in the throat.
 
If it will ruin the belt, I can live with the one slightly loose. Anybody here done it?

If the belt is not satisfactory I think it is already ruined. I have never punched holes between holes but I have added holes when a belt was too long. I have used the punches with a wheel for 1/4 in. leather. Larry
 
I like my belts to be finely adjustable, so on all of my belts, gun and other, I punch holes midway between all of the standard holes. My gun belts are from Relentless Tactical, and I've had no problems with them.
 
Thanks, guys. Walkinghorse - either way! :) I got it last year, and it just seems like the ideal spot is right between two of the existing holes. I've got a drill press, plus many punches, but none designed for leather. I think I'll get a $5 set from Amazon that are made for leather, and go ahead and put another hole in it.
 
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I don't want to name the brand, but I have a 1.5 inch gun belt, nearly a quarter inch thick leather. It has holes one inch apart. (Wish they were 3/4.) I would like to punch a hole between two others - one is a hair loose, the other a hair tight. I called the company. They didn't say NO, but they did say it would weaken the leather, and to "be careful". If it will ruin the belt, I can live with the one slightly loose. Anybody here done it? I'm probably over thinking it. Thanks. I can see now why some insist on buckle holes 3/4 inch apart.

I wish you would name the brand, because they're idiots. Absolutely will not weaken the belt. Period. Ever unless dry rot has set in, in which case the entire belt is disintegrating.

It's not uncommon to encounter antique/vintage belts of a hundred years' age and older, with additional holes that were put in when the belt was new or new-ish.

In the gun biz we do have a tendency to make the holes 1" apart. But there would be no harm in making them 3/4" apart except its more holes to punch! Big makers, though, use single punch-press die to put the holes in, or put then into the clicker die, so not a biggie. Fashion belts are more likely to be found with the holes closer together.
 
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If the belt's made of true full grain leather, there should not be any significant weakening of the belt caused be putting holes between the holes. 'Specially if that leather's nearly a 1/4" thick.
I'd wonder if it was made of a lower quality leather like top grain.

Meaning no disrespect, let's be careful of terminology like "top grain".

By law there must be a distinction, but in fact there is not necessarily a functional difference; to wit:

Leather has a hair side and a flesh side; the strength is in the hair side. Once the hair and flesh are removed, the hair side is now what creates the leather's strength against tearing.

"Full grain" is that hair side, with hair removed, in which that surface is entirely whole: it has not been sanded or otherwise "corrected".

"Corrected grain": see above.

"Top grain": is another way to say 'corrected grain'; that is, all of the grain side is there but cosmetically it has been sanded and sometimes even painted to remove/conceal blemishes.

So: nothing wrong with top grain leather if you want strength, but you won't get what we often called an 'aniline' finish because all the natural grain is displayed like finely figured timber.

A split leather, that has had a finish put on one side to make it look like top grain, has yet another name that eludes me at the moment. This is NOT strong.
 
If it is solid thick leather I anticipate no troubles. Measure carefully!

Some dress belts are made of two paper-thin layers of smooth leather, laminated good-sides-out around a core of some non-leather material. Never add a hole to one of those, they will begin to split at the new hole.

I have made many holes in belts using a cheap set of punches bought at Harbor Freight.
 
Meaning no disrespect, let's be careful of terminology like "top grain".

By law there must be a distinction, but in fact there is not necessarily a functional difference; to wit:

Leather has a hair side and a flesh side; the strength is in the hair side. Once the hair and flesh are removed, the hair side is now what creates the leather's strength against tearing.

"Full grain" is that hair side, with hair removed, in which that surface is entirely whole: it has not been sanded or otherwise "corrected".

"Corrected grain": see above.

"Top grain": is another way to say 'corrected grain'; that is, all of the grain side is there but cosmetically it has been sanded and sometimes even painted to remove/conceal blemishes.

So: nothing wrong with top grain leather if you want strength, but you won't get what we often called an 'aniline' finish because all the natural grain is displayed like finely figured timber.

A split leather, that has had a finish put on one side to make it look like top grain, has yet another name that eludes me at the moment. This is NOT strong.
The top grain leather I've had to deal with must've been a lower grade. It didn't have near the strength of full grain. I'll never use it again.
I've seen split leather with an applied finish called "genuine leather".
Worst of all is bonded leather.
 
I have not done it but I did have shoe repairman do it for me. He put three holes in the belt right where I wanted them, and thy looked like the factory mad holes. It cost me $9, and he used a mechanically driven punch. One bag for each hole.
 
Yes, I've added extra holes to belts. Unfortunately, it's been to fit a larger waist. :rolleyes:

What I hate and can't abide is adding extra holes to guns. It should be a criminal offense.

...yeah...there's no room for holes on the end I need them on...
 
Of course this is all nonsense. The resourceful boy would take his wife out for a steak dinner. Then the next time he feels his belt is a bit loose, he'd go get himself a hot fudge sundae (double dip). Instead of feeling the loose hole, the one only a half inch too wide, he'd realize it was a gift from God. Its contraction that is difficult, not expansion. Or go out still another hole and begin carrying your concealed carry gun inside the belt.

In life, we all need to be able to adapt. Both to happy and unhappy situations. With something so trivial as a half inch belt measurement, don't even bother to calculate if its a good thing or a bad thing. Just compensate with another of your strengths. In this situation, diet will easily cover the problem and be enjoyable.

Sure, I've cut additional holes in my belt over time. I've still got the little wheel thing we used back in 4H maybe 60 years ago. It always seemed a durable tool but its not real good for mens belts. Dress belts, its OK. I gave my youngest son (42) one of my very lightly used belts. Too small for me but still too long for him. He's been spoiled from the start and took it to a shoe repair place for the shorter hole. :(

Right now I'm wearing a Galco fancy belt I really like. But I'm on the last hole the wrong way. I had my wife order another online, but its the same length as the one I'm wearing but marked 2 inches longer. I'm convinced they do that for cost savings. Make them all the same length but mark some shorter rather than longer. But I have a solution. I'm just going to begin wearing my "western" style belt buckle. Its a genuine S&W sterling silver one. It adds 2" to your belt at the hole you use. As long as I don't suffer Dunlaps disease, it should be good to go. You all know about Dunlaps, where your gut has "done lopped over your belt". They used to call it the spare tire disease.
 
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I've punched Bianchi, Lawrence and Hunter to name a few. I
use a hammer and punch on most of them. Those punches that
have the different sizes on a wheel that come from hardware
stores don't work well on heavy leather.
Maybe the ones from the hardware store don't, but I have one I bought at the local Tandy Leather store and it works great!


I lost 140 pounds 2-3 years ago and had to "take in" all my belts. That's when I bought my punch and it has worked very well punching multiple holes in half a dozen of my belts.
 
Maybe the ones from the hardware store don't, but I have one I bought at the local Tandy Leather store and it works great!


I lost 140 pounds 2-3 years ago and had to "take in" all my belts. That's when I bought my punch and it has worked very well punching multiple holes in half a dozen of my belts.
Good job on the weight loss. I thought I did good losing just 75 pounds.
I also punched the extra holes in my belts then I took a strap end cutter and cut off the excess.
 
Rather than buy a punch, I took it to a Red Wing shoe repair shop. They told me on the phone they would do it for a couple bucks. She did it using one of the wheeled punches, then wouldn't accept any money. Might have recognized me from having boots resoled there. The interesting thing. When I first showed her what I wanted, she asked, "Are you sure, because it will weaken the belt". This belt is advertised as "14 ounce solid full grain steer hide. I can't imagine it will be significantly weaker. Time will tell.

Sincere thanks for all the replies.
 
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