Extraction from 2" K-frames

7shooter

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I have a 2 inch Model 10 that will routinely eject all six spent cases.
I also have a 2 inch Model 64 that will typically retain 4 or 5 cases.

A friend who is retired from S&W tells me that any barrel less than 3 inches will not reliably eject all six cases but my old Model 10 does.

Does anybody have suggestions for getting the Model 64 to shape up and fly right ?
 
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Could be a cleaning issue. Might need the charge holes professionally honed. Might be they're undersized and need to be professionally reamed.

Provided they're not sticking, you can also practice a gentle sweep with one hand as you extract to clear them the rest of they way...
 
Could be a cleaning issue. Might need the charge holes professionally honed. Might be they're undersized and need to be professionally reamed.

Provided they're not sticking, you can also practice a gentle sweep with one hand as you extract to clear them the rest of they way...

What is the difference between honing and reaming ?
 
Murphydog has it dead on....I use mine in IDPA and ICORE matches...be aggressive in having muzzle straight up, and briskly run the extractor rod with either your thumb or your palm bopping them out...Never have problems using that method.
Randy

I use that method with 3 and 4 inch revolvers and it works great. Doesn't work with my 2 inch Model 64.
 
The chambers may be rough (more common, in my experience, in stainless revolvers) or undersized - or just dirty.

The hotter the ammo, the more rough chambers matter.

First clean well.

If that doesn't solve things, then hone.
 
You could check for burrs with a q tip, if any cotton sticks there is a burr. Try this with the star in the normal position as well as raised up off the cylinder. if there are burrs some craytex should remove them by hand with little effort. Work slowly, if you get in a hurry you may end up somewhere you dont want to be.
 
I only have one S&W with any extraction problems.
It's a 696-1 and possibly the most accurate handgun I own.
BUT, the cases hang up in the cylinder and some of them are scratched when I finally get them out.
Not ideal in a potential carry gun.
I am tempted to send it back to S&W to have the rear of the chambers honed.
They act as if some of the chambers have been bulged slightly or were manufactured wrong.
I don't really care if the chambers have been bulged a little as I know I will never fire even Skeeter loads let alone Keith's specials.
My questions to the group are:
Will they do this work?
Will I get my gun back?
I don't think more than a few 10 thousandths need be removed during the re-cylindricalization* of the chambers.
It may need a new star as well.
The same loads that give problems extract normally in the other K and N frame 44 specials I have.

Thanks!

*Fancy new word of the day :)

===
Nemo
 
Nemo. All that cylinder needs is for someone with a new, sharp .44 Special chamber reamer to run it into each charge hole gently and correctly. Reamed properly the resulting finish will be correct for a revolver. It is not desirable to have the slickest sidewall finish on a revolver chamber because of possible excessive back thrust into the recoil shield. More than likely your problem is that the extractor star has slightly realigned itself while seating in from the original chambering position. ........ Big Cholla
 
Thanks. That sounds reasonable.
Would Smith do this if I sent it back to them and requested it?
Certainly they would be able to fit a new star at the same time.

===
Nemo
 
I doubt that you 'need' a new extractor star. The original just needs some TLC. Put a new star in and you might just be back to the original problem position after the new star 'seats' in. JMHO. ............... Big Cholla
 
Update: Got 696-1 back from S&W service and pretty pleased

Big Cholla sezzed:
"All that cylinder needs is for someone with a new, sharp .44 Special chamber reamer to run it into each charge hole gently and correctly"

I did end up sending it back to fix the extraction issue.
They did pretty much as you suggested as far as I can tell.
Looks like a new, better fitting extractor star and a mild ream of the rear of the chambers.
I can't wait to get to the range.
This is my favorite 44 special.
In the close-up, you can see where they didn't deburr the chamber mouth after reaming.
If I was super anal about it, I would stone this off but I am just going to ignore it unless a problem crops up.
I figure the micro-ridge will flatten out under fire (or not).
This is the best gunsmithing I have yet to get out of S&W.
Don't get me started on the 4" 624 they tried to wreck (but failed).

===
Nemo
 

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I hope the work done by S&W resolves the problem you were having. However, looking at those excellent photographs convinces me that it is unlikely that I will ever send a revolver to S&W for repair. And you are generous enough to point out that this is the best smithing you've ever gotten from them. Really?
 
Well my statistical sample is quite small: 2.
You have no idea how much better this is than a job I sent back to Charter Arms.
I have to say the smooth and professional way S&W dealt with me this time satisfied me completely.
I have yet to see a revolver that is perfect although I don't have any from the completely hand fit era.
If one puts all the holes in one place and isn't going to fall apart, I consider that a good start.
In many cases a good end too. :)

===
Nemo
 
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