Factory Re-Bluing?

[fuzzi4844]

I'm new to this site, and am a collector, with just a few S & W's. However, my dad has a very rare (apx. 200 left of 23,000) model 56. These were made for the USAF in early '60's, then recalled and destroyed a year later.
Unfortunately, someone has had it nickel plated. I was curious if he could (should?) have it reblued by the factory, or by someone else? It looks in very good condition, other than the nickel. It has been documented as authentic by S & W's historian. Thanks for any help!

 

[Engine49guy]

Hello Fuzzi4844 and welcome to the site!
Im new also and recently posed a similar question regarding restoring an old 22.
I will post a copy of the reply at the bottom, BUT,,,,

First let me say that if you repost this question in the modern hand ejector section with the headline:
"HELP with rare model 56" instead of just "reblue question" in the title, I think you will get a landslide of responses.

That being said,
The experts seemed to agree David Chicoine in NC was the guy to restore old Smiths.
I looked up your model in the Smith book and they say its so rare they cant even estimate its value.

Try the repost and include a picture of your gun so the experts get a chance to see it and Im betting you get a big response...
Good Luck with your dads gun and POST SOME PICS of that rare beauty!

I will copy and paste here :

"If you were to ask for a recomendation on who to send this gun to for repairs, most would say David Chicoine at Oldwest Gunsmith in NC. You can look him up on the internet. He's the authority on repairing older S&Ws. He currently has one of mine in the repair process. On top of the repairs, you are probably looking at about $450-600 for a reblue. "

 

[robertrwalsh]

You want to be very careful who you let work on that thing, so it doesn't accidentally disappear. Make sure it is insured. Reblue on Smiths is an art, I'd send it to the factory myself, but that's not to say no one else can do a good job.

 

[ronterry]

Wasn't aware that Smith & Wesson Blues there own. I thought they sent them off to third parties...
This is one of the sciences (Yes more science than art!) I plan on, when I get my gunsmithing deal going.
I have all the goodies to blue via rust or caustic, it just takes space which I don't have right now.
All I'm doing right now is friends & family locally cause I don't have my FFL-01 yet...

BTW: I could see charging maybe 200-300+ for rust blue, and maybe 100-150 for caustic. It all depends on what prep work is needed.
Say, if the gun just need to be dunked for hot bluing, than I couldn't imagine more 40 bucks- for real...
So your realy paying for the prep...

 

[H Richard]

In your case, the Nickle will have to be stripped off first. That adds to the cost. But good info to really watch who does it, and that is a rare revolver. I don't think the factory will work on a gun of this vintage.

 

[HAWKEYE10]

Originally posted by ronterry:
Wasn't aware that Smith & Wesson Blues there own. I thought they sent them off to third parties...
This is one of the sciences (Yes more science than art!) I plan on, when I get my gunsmithing deal going.
I have all the goodies to blue via rust or caustic, it just takes space which I don't have right now.
All I'm doing right now is friends & family locally cause I don't have my FFL-01 yet...

BTW: I could see charging maybe 200-300+ for rust blue, and maybe 100-150 for caustic. It all depends on what prep work is needed.
Say, if the gun just need to be dunked for hot bluing, than I couldn't imagine more 40 bucks- for real...
So your realy paying for the prep...

when you start making a living gunsmithing you want think thats to much.

don

 

[WR Moore]

Just a little warning about finishing/refinishing. The guys who finish the high grade guns at the Smith factory have years & years experience finishing lower grade guns on the buffing wheels before they're allowed to work on the high dollar stuff. It's real easy to round edges, remove markings, dish surfaces that are supposed to be flat etc.

In other words, it's an art form.

 

[ronterry]

Proper buffing angles, proper grit size, watching your temps, and avoiding a concave flat - is more of a science to me...
If you void consistency, than sure it's an art...