favored lubricants for revolver actions?

[RalphK22]

I have a model 10, that judging from the dried and caked on oil on the exterior surface, would probably greatly benefit from removing the side plate and giving it a thorough cleaning. I was just curious if anyone has a favorite brand of gun oil etc. that they would recommend to re- lubricate.

 

[therevjay]

S&W spray dry lube. Or Outers 'Tri-flow'. (also a 'Dry' lube) The liquid carrier gets into all the spots that need some lube, then evaporates and don't draw dust & grime. Or turn to varnish like oils do. (granted that takes alot of time)

 

[dfariswheel]

For customer revolvers, and still in my own, I use Super Lube.
This is a clear-white synthetic Teflon lube.
It's a "thin grease-thick oil" substance, that stays put and won't run off or evaporate like thinner lubes.

I've opened up revolvers that I'd serviced years ago, and while the lube was dirty it was still present and lubricating.
For high friction areas like the interfaces between the hammer and trigger, I use Super Lube grease.
This is a thick, stiff grease that works very well.

You can buy the Super Lube "oil" in small oiler tubes or in 4 oz bottles, and the grease in small tubes on in larger cans.
While you can buy the small tubes and oilers from Midway and Brownell's, I buy it in the larger sizes direct from Synco.

Grease | Oil | Synthetic Lubricants

 

[robertrwalsh]

Breakfree is not too shabby and is easy to find.

 

[HEADKNOCKER]

I prefer Rem-Oil for the action inside revolvers..
It's thin & migrates well also has teflon & leaves a nice slick action & doesn't gum up..
Only takes a couple drops to lube the entire action including the yolk..
Gary/Hk
moistureguard-rem-oil

 

[500 Magnum Nut]

Everybody has their favorite brew,
I use Break free CLP on everything.

 

[Centenniel]

I have used Pro Shot Zero Friction for years with excellent results. The oil provides good lubrication and rust preventative properties and the plastic container is equipped with a small metal "spout" that makes precision application with little or no waste very easy.

 

[tomcatt51]

I prefer Rem-Oil for the action inside revolvers..Gary/Hk

+1 Rem Oil

 

[WR Moore]

I've had a 40+ year preference for Dri-Slide. It's a moly lube in an evaporative carrier. Doesn't dry out, migrate or collect dust, powder residues or other contaminants the way wet lubes do.

 

[adweisbe]

I have found Mobil 1 synthetic 30w to work ok. Apply sparingly to the pins, bosses, and bottom of the rebound slide.

 

[n4zov]

I actually don't think it makes a lot of difference as long as you use a quality gun oil or light grease made specifically for firearms and use it sparingly. Right now I am using Break Free CLP primarily because it is on my gun bench and handy to reach. I would avoid ultra thin penetrating type oils or thick grease lubricants. Whatever you use, apply it lightly and only to areas where there is metal to metal contact. No need to flood the action with lube.

 

[H Richard]

I picked up a 15-2 a while back, and it "felt" dirty and a little greasy. Was just an average condition gun. I pulled the side plate, and the entire action was packed with some white paste lube. It took me a couple hours to clean it all out, starting with brake and parts cleaner on all the parts which I completely stripped out and getting into all the nooks & crannies of the cavity. Once cleaned up and a light lube with Break Free, it ran like a sewing machine.

 

[daa9mm]

I also use Mobil One synthetic oil to clean and lube moving parts - rebound slide, hammer and trigger sides, etc. I put Mobil One synthetic grease on all the pivot pins (hammer and trigger) because it doesn't harden until in sub subzero cold and won't run until near the boiling point.
I've also filled the insides up with CLP and it works fine too but is much messy than using the synthetic lubes.

 

[Maine Garda]

i like Tetra gun oil.

 

[markush]

I've used Rem Oil for over 20 years. I've just recently started experimenting with the latest and greatest synthetic lubes, but I still find myself loving the Rem Oil for ease of use.

I've been guilty of using the little straw the comes with the aerosol cans to flood internals of revolvers till the stuff flowing out becomes clear. The liquid carrier evaporates off in a day or two leaving the Teflon behind...there is no need to pull off the side plate. Repeat this "cleaning" process if/when necessary or just use small amounts to lubricate the action. Doesn't get much easier.

 

[NE450No2]

Break Free is always good. Here lately I have been using a product called Prolix.

It dries and does not attract dust or dirt.

 

[ImprovedModel56Fan]

I use RIG +P Stainless Steel lube very sparingly on all the high-pressure areas of contact, and a SMALL amount of Anderol (not made any more, I don't think, but probably most gun oils are OK) elsewhere. Of course, I don't use the +P on any .38 Special made before 1957, and sometimes I wonder whether it's OK even on my 19 or my 66.

 

[Robert Finegan]

TW25b slick stuff! Great for load bearing surfaces



-Robert

 

[HAM]

NE450No2, I've been curious about Prolix since I read an article by Chuck Hawks extolling Prolix it. Hawks seems to know what he's talking about. Where did you buy Prolix? I can't seem to find Prolix where I live. Would you recommend the spray or the liquid?

Here's the article by Hawks.

Gun Cleaning

HAM

 

[NE450No2]

You can get it from Heritage Arms in Salt Lake City or directly from the maker.

Prolix Lubricants Home Page

The spray and the liquid are the same thing, the Spray just has a "sprayer".

They also have a little thicker lube called Xtra T Lube.

It is like a light grease. Good stuff too.