FINALLY! Got my 686... and a dinged up ego

[wrangler5]

Travo, you've gotten some good advice here. I shot rifle and pistol (bullseye/targets) for decades before I took up the shotgun (just casually, mostly skeet). And I can tell you that, IME, the difference in sight alignment and trigger control between shotguns and single pellet guns is substantial.

I will second the suggestions to get some snap caps (and yes, Azooms are the best, IMHO, even if the most expensive) and dry fire, dry fire, dry fire. I would also recommend practicing single action - cocking the hammer before each shot. You don't lead targets, and you don't slap triggers, when the target is standing still. So you want to concentrate on maintaining sight alignment and squeezing the trigger - ideally, it will be surprise when it lets off. Once you get to the point where you can hit your target deliberately up close you can work on extending the distance, and on speed (if you want to) which will include going to double action trigger work. But double action is a hard way to learn.

For long term reference, you can cut your ammunition cost in half if you reload the empty cases you're getting from GA Arms ammo. Literally. I use Suters Choice 158g lead round nose bullets (~$35/500) and Winchester 231 powder (~1cent/round), and with primers (~$30/1000) my cost is right at 11 cents/round. That's half what you're paying GA Arms, before shipping. There is a cost to get started reloading, of course, but you will make that back in savings, quickly or eventually, depending on how much you shoot. (BTW, most shooters find that they don't really save any money, but get to shoot twice as much, when they reload - you have been warned .)

 

[Cpo1944]

Travo;
Next time try some first-line ammo - see if your shooting doesn't improve.

Larry

There is nothing wrong with Georgia Arms ammo. I have used it for years with great results. They are good people and sell a good product at very good prices .I especially like their .45 ACP bulk stuff in the metal ammo cans. I have shot their .38/.357, 9mm,.41 mag,and .45 acp, and so far never a dud .

 

[Bodyguard]

Rondo is right, The Pistol Shooter's Treasury is a great book to learn and relearn the fundamentals. First time I read it I was 8 years old and shooting my cousins M41. Helped immensely in teaching the basics, and at seven bucks you can't go wrong.

 

[Sportsterguy]

I use Georgia Arms ammo all the time and its good stuff in all the calibers I shoot on a regular basis. Hate to say it but the only S&W that I ever owned that was not accurate at all was a pre lock 2.5" 686. Been shooting S&W's since 76 and am a competitive shooter and I knew it wasn't me. Took it out multible times using different types/brands of ammo, including .38's to the range. Made sure it was well rested on the bench and had no coffee in me to rule out the human factor. From 10 tards it/I were shooting 4" groups which are terrible IMO. Had a gunsmith from Va. Beach who is a S&W expert inspect it and everything checked out well but it still was shooting horrible groups. Had him install a set of Milletts on the rear and no improvement. Ended up selling it DIRT cheap.

Lots of good advice from everyone and hope you get that revolvers accuracy up to speed. Use the advice given to you by our fellow members. SAFELY dry fire it at home before going to the range with snap caps focus on the front sight and squeezing the trigger. Swap different brands/bullet weights of ammo. Try some light .38's out to keep recoil down to prevent flinching. Rest it using bags on the bench without the barrel touching anything on your next outing to rule out the human factor. Have a bud load the cylinder leaving 1 or 2 empty to see if you are jerking that trigger. Most of my .357's like a 158 grain bullet so make sure you try them out also. My 4" 586 is a tackdriver, coming in a close second in the accuracy dept. next to my 6" 17-3. I have a set of Herretts on the 586 and they fit my hand much better than the factory grips which does make a big difference for accurate shooting.

Best of luck and have some fun!

 

[roaddog28]

Hi,
Good advice by all responses. What you need to do is practice, practice and practice. You bought one of the best 357 magnum revolvers currently made. It’s probably not your ammo. Here is some suggestions on how to improve.
1. Buy snap caps and practice everyday with your 686 double action.
2. Buy some cheap 10" paper plates for shooting practice.
3. Only practice at 7 to 10 yards.
4. Take your time and focus on a smooth double action pull and keeping your sights lined up all the way through your pull.
5. Practice with 38 special target loads only. These are light recoil rounds.
Your goal is to fire double action all of your rounds into the paper plate at 7 yards. In most cases you will put about 700 rounds through your revolver before you can accomplish this.
I know you are thinking about shooting 357 magnums as soon as possible but unless you can accomplish what I have described above, you will find yourself getting frustrated shooting 357 magnums. The recoil is much sharper and you can develop bad habits like flinching which will hurt your accurately. I have been shooting almost nothing but double action revolvers for years and I still avoid shooting full power 357 magnums. Few people ever become very accurate shooting double action with this kind of round.

Good luck,
Howard

 

[.357magger]

Great advice given so far but here's an old school method that will only cost you 40 cents.

It is to improve your double action trigger pull and was used extensively back in the day when revolvers ruled the Earth (was either the Triassic or Jurassic, don't remember which ).

Start with a quarter. Place it on the barrel rib, immediately behind your front sight. Extend the weapon to eye level and practice your trigger stroke until you can pull the trigger without dislodging the quarter. The goal is to have a steady hand and to develop the muscles necessary for a very smooth trigger stroke. Don't get frustrated if you pick up that quarter a lot, just keep repeating the exercise until your hand/trigger finger gets tired. Put it down for about 30 minutes, then repeat. Secondary goal is to be able to completely fire a cylinder without dislodging the quarter.

When you master that, move to a nickel instead of the quarter.

When you master that, move to a dime.

When you master that...start with your left hand

Assuming by this point that you have set your sights in the rested position with the ammo of your choice, you will have developed the muscles and tempo needed to be a master revolver shooter. You'll see those groups drop to the point where 3-5" groups at 25 yards will be possible, or even routine. It's all about repetition and muscle memory and there is NO substitute imo for dry fire practice. Don't get frustrated, just keep practicing and those groups WILL shrink.

Hope this helps, it should, it worked in "the day" and works just as well now.

 

[HotRoderX]

Travo;
Next time try some first-line ammo - see if your shooting doesn't improve.

Larry

I agree

Not all ammo is created equal and not all guns like all ammo. I would play around with different types of ammo. Even if you had one gun that likes a certain ammo it don't mean another will.

I agree thought the class isn't a bad idea at all. I would also do lots of dry fire practice to make sure your not moving the gun when you squeeze the trigger.

Just remember dry fire practice isn't a substitute for range practice.

 

[Hondo44]

Travo,

All that has been said already over a couple of dozen times is excellent advice and all things you should do...eventually.

However, my suggestions are not different information, just in a different priority:

1. Get the basic skills down with a .22 first and don't buy a new gun. A used and worn quality gun like an S&W double action K frame or even a Ruger Single six, single action is all you need to get started. It's almost impossible to wear out a good brand .22 revolver. The on-line auctions have thousands of choices at whatever price you can afford.

2. Shoot whatever gun you get in single action mode ONLY until you build up your confidence and learn the three basic skills: sight picture, trigger pull and a two handed hold. I'm sure you didn't learn shotgunning by starting out on doubles, right? It's not a problem with your gun or ammo!

3. Shoot to your hearts content and with wife, or kids and grandkids, (if any) for peanuts, with virtually no recoil or muzzle blast (still wear your muffs), and just have some fun with it. You'll know best when it's time to move up to .38s or 357s and double action shooting!

Bottom line: Keep it as simple as possible to start.
Good luck and have a ball, you have a whole new world to look forward to,

 

[travo]

Just wanted to give all of the responders another thanks for their advice. I will be ordering some snapcaps ASAP. I like the "quarter on the barrel". That will give me an idea of what my hand is doing during the trigger pull.

I have miles to go, thanks again guys!

 

[JohnnieB]

On another note, tomorrow is an election day in WV... So I plan on commandeering the political signage around the neighborhood, so I can use the stakes/signs to staple my targets on at the range... That way I feel something good is coming from all that evil. lol

So you're the one that beat me to all the free target holders.

Lots of good advice here.
Just wanted to add a slight variation to the old coin on the barrel dry fire routine.
I use one of those laser boresighter gadgets that your insert into the muzzle end of the barrel instead of a coin.
Watching the red dot move while squeezing the trigger is embarrassing at first, but it gets better with practice.

I wouldn't have bought one otherwise, but I only paid five bucks for the gadget at a yard sale.

As for ammo, all guns have their likes and dislike, but within my shooting abilities, all my guns are at least as accurate as I am with Georgia Arms ammo.

Practice, Practice and Practice - Be safe and good luck neighbor.
John

 

[M3Stuart]

Work up to it...

+1 on all the other comments.

I got the 686-1 6" you see on the attached (top of pic). At 44 or so oz. it was too much for me at first. So I got the 4" rossi (don't laugh - $299 at Academy) 97104 - it weighs only 32 oz - middle of pic. Guess what; same issue as you had - namely, it was going to cost too much to be good. Soooo, I got the Taurus 94SS4 4" .22LR (a mere 25 oz - bottom of pic). Now I shoot half a brick in the 94 to warm up. Then I switch to the 971 with .38 spcl or +P. Then I'm on to the 686 with +P or .357. Works like a charm! On a recent outing, when I switched to the Rossi 97104 in .38 from the Taurus 94SS4 in .22LR I immediately landed two bullseyes on top of each other at 40'.

Oh, and I cannot stress enough: move up closer until you hit it - and I don't care if that's 1' away, then 3', then 5' then 10'.

 

[.357magger]

GREAT advice imo.

 

[Cold_DeadHands]

Try loading up 5 rounds and score 5 perfect hits. If you miss, unload and do 5 perfect dry fire...don't stop dry firing till you have 5 perfect ones in succession. Rinse & repeat. Made me a much better shot.

 

[M3Stuart]

At the risk of wearing out my recommendation to practice with a revolver in .22 LR first; a 525 brick of .22 cost me $20. That same number of rounds of .38 would cost me at least $160 to $200. I save $140 to $180 per brick of .22 LR shot. So, by the end of the second brick I had, literally, paid for my Taurus 94 ($331 online at Buds). At the end of a year I saved over $1,000 with this technique, oh, and the Taurus 94 will last forever. I can now easily justify investing in the benefits of a S&W 317 or 617 as many others have - but I'm new to revolvers and somewhat broke (kids in college). AND, more importantly, I was shooting better - so, IMHO, practicing with .22LR is good practice for shooting .38 (with similar style revolvers of course) and saves a lot of $$.

Sidebar: I had problems with my Taurus 'out-of-the-box' (shells were nearly impossible to extract). So I do NOT, personally, recommend the Taurus 94SS4 at this time. Although I have had no issues with my Rossi 97104, it does not lock up nearly as tight as my pre-lock 686-1 and the trigger did eventually smooth out with no mods. So, at the risk of sounding trite; 'I got what I paid for'...