$%!!@ Finger grooves
- Thread starter gnappi
- Start date
Rpg
Member
Finger groove stocks LOOK like they're wonderful fits, but they rarely are.
I've stopped buying them because all I'm doing is throwing money away.
Magnas and Tyler Ts solve my problems, they just don't LOOK like much.
I've stopped buying them because all I'm doing is throwing money away.
Magnas and Tyler Ts solve my problems, they just don't LOOK like much.
I'm lucky......
The few grips I have with finger dents seem to fit just fine.
The few grips I have with finger dents seem to fit just fine.
SGT ROCK 11B
Member
Revolver grips are a great subject. For the last 50 years the question most people ask when you mention you have a new revolver is, "what grips are you getting?" S&W even had their grips available.
Now as collectors we want the original grips on our Safe Queens.
Now as collectors we want the original grips on our Safe Queens.
OP
gnappi
Member
That last line is profound!
BourbonCowboy
Member
I love the grooves in my HKs. They make the pistol feel like an extension of my arm - particularly the full-sized pistols with a low profile magwell.
I also put Hogue Handall grooved grips on both my Kel Tec P17s. It's the perfect fit for the pistol and my hand.
I also put Hogue Handall grooved grips on both my Kel Tec P17s. It's the perfect fit for the pistol and my hand.
mike campbell
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The only reason I have any finger grooves at all is that they can be found in nice squishy rubber.
Any gun that hits the base of my thumb hard, I can't really shoot.
Bought a m29 with nicer walnut but those hit the base of my thumb, so it now wears terrible ugly houges.
I have two of those neat ww1 s&w 45acp revolvers.
The square edge of the frame above the grips hit me right where I can't take it. There is no way I can make myself put rubber on either of those.
Maybe the answer is to belt sander off the grooves.
Any gun that hits the base of my thumb hard, I can't really shoot.
Bought a m29 with nicer walnut but those hit the base of my thumb, so it now wears terrible ugly houges.
I have two of those neat ww1 s&w 45acp revolvers.
The square edge of the frame above the grips hit me right where I can't take it. There is no way I can make myself put rubber on either of those.
Maybe the answer is to belt sander off the grooves.
hemiram
Member
I don't like finger grooves on revolvers much, and I really hate the looks and feel of Magnas and sharp checkering on any grip, but for some reason, I like finger grooves on most of my semiautos with them. Most of my revolvers end up with smooth or lightly grooved target type grips.
Like many, I have mixed feelings about finger groove stocks on revolvers and most of my modest collection wear their original S&W stocks. I do like the few sets of finger groove stocks that I have, and they seem to fit me very well. The Jim Badger stocks on my Model 28-2 are nice, as are the Hogue's on my Python. The Crimson Trace laser stocks on my 627-5 are great, and so are the Uncle Mike's on my EDC 642-2. I included my wife's Ruger LCR .22 Magnum...the stocks fit her hands very well.
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Op who is the company you mention that only sell finger grooved grips?
OP
gnappi
Member
They're a big seller on Ebay called customgungrips. I asked about a few S&W styles that did were not available with grooves and was told his customers liked the grooves. NP No sale for those who don't I replied.
They make a "few" styles without but overwhelmingly they're with grooves
They make a "few" styles without but overwhelmingly they're with grooves
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Grips are very much a personal choice. My choices are driven solely by function, not appearance or what came with the revolver.
My circumstances:
1. I have large hands, but not huge. I have to wear XL gloves, but then I have some room left at the tips of the fingers.
2. I shoot DA only. I changed when I started advancing in PPC competition and since then shoot all DA revolvers DA by preference. So between #1 and 2, I don't want too long of a LOP from the backstrap to the trigger.
3. Recoil was and is not an issue. Our duty ammo during the revolver era was the Treasury .38+P. Other than that I only shot .38 wadcutters for practice and competition.
4. I want enough traction to allow me to maintain my grasp on the revolver. Although our jurisdiction was coastal, and thus cool, most of the matches were inland, which could get well over 100 degrees.
Out of these requirements I have determined my two favorite (and only) grips; nylon Hogues and Rogers (later Safariland).
I got serious about finding the most suitable grips when I got my first PPC revolver, built up on a Ruger Six series. At that time there was not much available for this frame, not even the Ruger target grips. I was using Pachmayrs, no grooves and they covered the backstrap.
Not too long afterward Rogers and Hogue came out with grips to fit the Ruger Six square butt frame. I got both (whatever it takes for a couple more Xs). The rubber Hogue Monogrip was not yet available, so I went with nylon. I still think it is better.
It was a close call, but I ended up using the Rogers. The Rogers had just a little more of a shelf at the base which greatly aided gripping the revolver at the barricades. The stippling on the Hogue allowed greater traction between my hand and the grip. That is still the best grip traction surface I have ever found. It allows a solid grasp but not so solid as to preclude grip adjustment between shots when necessary.
To get around the lesser traction of the Rogers, I carried a rosin bag with me on the line. Messy but effective.
Since we also fired barricades on our qualification courses, I put Rogers on my duty revolver at the time, the 4" S&W 66, then switched them to my 4" 686 when we made that transition (caused my me). I also have them on my competition 586.
When I decided I needed a personally owned .357 snubby that was more robust than the K frame, I bought a 2 3/4" Ruger Security Six. On that revolver, where the weight is biased much more to the rear, the nylon Hogue is perfect - for me.
If this discourse points out anything, it is that we have our own individual needs and preferences for grips, and those needs and preferences should be how each of us determines what grips we will use.
What you will not find here is beauty. Revolvers that I shot all the time, at least way back then, were functional tools only.
On my SAAs, and all SAAs are objects d' art though, I have stag grips, some real, some faux. But I think that is somewhere written in the Code of the West, or it should be.
My circumstances:
1. I have large hands, but not huge. I have to wear XL gloves, but then I have some room left at the tips of the fingers.
2. I shoot DA only. I changed when I started advancing in PPC competition and since then shoot all DA revolvers DA by preference. So between #1 and 2, I don't want too long of a LOP from the backstrap to the trigger.
3. Recoil was and is not an issue. Our duty ammo during the revolver era was the Treasury .38+P. Other than that I only shot .38 wadcutters for practice and competition.
4. I want enough traction to allow me to maintain my grasp on the revolver. Although our jurisdiction was coastal, and thus cool, most of the matches were inland, which could get well over 100 degrees.
Out of these requirements I have determined my two favorite (and only) grips; nylon Hogues and Rogers (later Safariland).
I got serious about finding the most suitable grips when I got my first PPC revolver, built up on a Ruger Six series. At that time there was not much available for this frame, not even the Ruger target grips. I was using Pachmayrs, no grooves and they covered the backstrap.
Not too long afterward Rogers and Hogue came out with grips to fit the Ruger Six square butt frame. I got both (whatever it takes for a couple more Xs). The rubber Hogue Monogrip was not yet available, so I went with nylon. I still think it is better.
It was a close call, but I ended up using the Rogers. The Rogers had just a little more of a shelf at the base which greatly aided gripping the revolver at the barricades. The stippling on the Hogue allowed greater traction between my hand and the grip. That is still the best grip traction surface I have ever found. It allows a solid grasp but not so solid as to preclude grip adjustment between shots when necessary.
To get around the lesser traction of the Rogers, I carried a rosin bag with me on the line. Messy but effective.
Since we also fired barricades on our qualification courses, I put Rogers on my duty revolver at the time, the 4" S&W 66, then switched them to my 4" 686 when we made that transition (caused my me). I also have them on my competition 586.
When I decided I needed a personally owned .357 snubby that was more robust than the K frame, I bought a 2 3/4" Ruger Security Six. On that revolver, where the weight is biased much more to the rear, the nylon Hogue is perfect - for me.
If this discourse points out anything, it is that we have our own individual needs and preferences for grips, and those needs and preferences should be how each of us determines what grips we will use.
What you will not find here is beauty. Revolvers that I shot all the time, at least way back then, were functional tools only.
On my SAAs, and all SAAs are objects d' art though, I have stag grips, some real, some faux. But I think that is somewhere written in the Code of the West, or it should be.
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