Firing pin - NOT

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I have a new S&W 642-2 in .38 Spl. I just replaced the cylinder and now the firing pin is not functioning. What gives ?
 
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What do you mean the firing pin isn't functioning. It doesn't come out through the bushing when the trigger is pulled and the cylinder is open? Working the thumb piece while cylinder is open will allow you to dry fire it and if you hold the trigger the firing pin should should be sticking out slightly into the frame opening.

If it is its possible your new cylinder has to much head space and the firing pin isn't striking the primers hard enough.

If you mean the action isn't working and you can't pull the trigger and fire it, your cylinder isn't fit right.

You can not just replace the cylinder and go to firing it. Sometimes you get lucky, but usually some fitting by some one who knows what they are doing is needed.

Unless you messed with the hammer or firing pin I don't think the firing pin is the problem.
 
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I have a new S&W 642-2 in .38 Spl. I just replaced the cylinder and now the firing pin is not functioning. What gives ?

Why on earth would you replace the cylinder on a NEW 642-2? That certainly doesn't make sense without further explanation. As a first-time poster, would you provide a few more details?
 
We need a lot more information. And the information needs to be correctly gathered and documented. So far, it is just a guess. But, come to think of it we are rather good at making good guesses at problem solving. . :-)
 
Firing Pin - NOT

The firing pin does not come out thru the bushing when the trigger is pulled. I can pull the trigger when the cylinder is closed but not when it is open.

When the cylinder is open the firing pin does not protrude past the bushing.
 
The firing pin does not come out thru the bushing when the trigger is pulled. I can pull the trigger when the cylinder is closed but not when it is open.

How do you know the firing pin is not passing through the bushing? Does your revolver not fire, when loaded with ammo and the cylinder is properly closed?

The trigger on you revolver is not supposed to function when the cylinder is open.
 
The trigger is not suppose to cycle when the cylinder is open. That's not a defect. It's a feature.

And the firing pin won't come thru the frame unless your finger remains on the trigger. Otherwise, the hammer block comes up and blocks it. Again... a safety feature, not a defect.
 
In order to test the firing pin, open the cylinder, hold the cylinder latch to the rear, than cycle the action. With the cylinder latch in the resting position it locks the action, holding it to the rear releases the action, just as if the cylinder was closed. Also, since the action rebounds, you have to hold the trigger to the rear after cycling the action in order to see the firing pin protrusion.
 
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The firing pin does not come out thru the bushing when the trigger is pulled. I can pull the trigger when the cylinder is closed but not when it is open.

When the cylinder is open the firing pin does not protrude past the bushing.
It will not work with the cylinder open. The trigger will be locked in place and the firing pin not visible. Notice that the cylinder release is also in the forward position. It springs back when the cylinder is closed. Normal function of any S&W revolver I've ever seen.

Also why did you replace a new cylinder?

Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk
 
Nor does the hammer block lift the hammer. The rebound slide does that.
Your right, though I didn't say the hammer block lifted the hammer. Just blocked it.

Now I see it's the position of the rebound slide that prevents the hammer from going forward if the trigger is not held all the way to the rear.

Lean something new everyday.

Next time I have a side plate off I'm going to have to do some experiments.
 
Thanks HRichard - you've been the most help so far. At least now I have something to work with.
 
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