First J frame

[P&R Fan]

Everybody has been voting for the Centennials, and I agree. Those are the ones with the totally enclosed hammer. I.E. the Models 40,42,340,342,442,640 and 642.
For a .38 Special I would recommend the M642. It is less likely to rust.
I bought a M640-1 .357 Magnum and a M642-1 .38 Special on the same day about 17 years ago. Never really carried the M642-1 very much but carried the M640-1 a great deal. I swapped out the rubber factory grips for a set of Eagle Secret Service wood stocks. They don't help with the recoil in a 23 ounce .357 Magnum as much as the rubber ones, but they don't catch on my covering garment like rubber does.
I have pretty much retired both of these since I got a M340PD a few years ago. It's an 11 ounce .357 Magnum Centennial, and it lives constantly in my left side pants pocket. (I'm right-handed). I put the wood Eagle stocks on it. It is actually painful to shoot with full power Magnums, which is what I always have in it. These are "shoot seldom, carry often" guns. I shoot them enough so I am totally familiar with them, but it ain't no fun!
The .38 Specials are pretty easy to shoot, even with +Ps and wood stocks. That is my recommendation.
Jim

 

[Jhamblen86]

So, would it be smarter to get a 357 j frame so I put magnums, +p, and standard specials through it?

 

[photoman]

642, three finger grip of your choice and Hornady FTX 110 grain standard pressure ammo.

 

[Boogsawaste]

While you could get a j magnum, they aren't the most comfortable for some to shoot with 357 and a lot end up carrying +p in them anyway. So it's up to you if you want to spend the extra $$ for one. Completely depends on what you want.

 

[MikeyB]

So, would it be smarter to get a 357 j frame so I put magnums, +p, and standard specials through it?

Trust me, it's no fun shooting .357's in a J-frame. I put 10 rounds of .357 through my M&P 360 and I was done. I carry .357's in the cylinder but only shoot .38's. And I have the Pachmayr Compact grips.

Also found it more difficult to use .357's in speed loaders so my speed loaders have .38 +P for quicker reloads.

 

[snubbyfan]

So, would it be smarter to get a 357 j frame so I put magnums, +p, and standard specials through it?

That's a question I had concerning my carry gun.
Do I pay extra for the scandium J's or the extra weight of the all steel J's for the capability of shooting .357 magnum?
After shooting magnum loads in a 4" K frame, I decided that .38 special +P would be plenty out of a J frame snubby. In fact my preferred carry load for my 442 is Federal Hydra-shok 110 grain low recoil. Less muzzle flip for a quicker, more accurate follow up shot.
It was my theory that with a 5 shot J frame, bullet placement is paramount and getting back on target is very important.

 

[Jhamblen86]

Have any of you had issues with bullets jumping the crimp in the scandium frames?

 

[P&R Fan]

Have any of you had issues with bullets jumping the crimp in the scandium frames?

No, I haven't.
I always carry Federal 125 grain hollowpoints in it. Maybe other brands might have that problem.
Jim

 

[PRM1]

I've been carrying J frames as a part of my work since the 1970s. For a daily working gun it's hard to beat the older Model 60s and the Model 649. I really like the pre-lock guns and the all steel SS construction is a real performer and is more forgiving than the blued models.

I've also got a Model 36-1 with a round butt, 3 inch heavy barrel (sweet). The longer heavier barrel really is a plus for range work and quick follow up shots.

Changing the factory grips for custom is also a big plus.

 

[Jhamblen86]

Thanks to everyone for the input. It will be beneficial to me in my decision.

 

[MikeyB]

Have any of you had issues with bullets jumping the crimp in the scandium frames?

Hasn't been a problem for me with the M&P 360.

 

[hotrod150]

Esp for a first j-frame, I'd suggest either the standard 442 or 642. I'd prefer a no-lock but the lock is easily removed. See how you like carrying and shooting it with standard and +P light and heavy bullet loads. See how you like carrying it. If you like it, and the recoil isn't an isue, then think about upgrading to a scandium and/or 357 model. I'm not a big recoil fan, and while I don't find my airweight j-frame 38 spl's pbjectionable to shoot I wouldn't want to deal with much more recoil.
You have to look but you can often find great deals on used j-frames both new and old. I've bought a couple old M36's as well as a couple 442-2's for around $300.

 

[C Broad Arrow]

A Model 36 or Model 60 is a good choice. I like them both. Here is a picture of my 36. The Model 60 - Chief's Special - with a Hogue grip is also a great choice. My wife calls it a "real" gun compared to her G19.

 

[Double-O-Dave]

My J-frame collection, minus my Model 34, is pictured below. My first J-frame was the Model 432PD (.32H&R Magnum) [top Right, photo #1], followed by a Model 642-1 (.38 Special) [bottom Right, photo #1], and then the Model 38-0 (.38 Special) [bottom Left, photo #1]. I then bought the Model 60-7 (.38 Special) [top Left, photo #1], but traded it to a fellow Forum member. Photo #2 shows my Bodyguards (all in .38 Special): Model 38-0 (top), Model 649-0 (bottom, left), and Model 638-1 (bottom, right). I really like the Bodyguard style (the original Bodyguard, NOT the newer version). The Model 649 is all (stainless) steel, and I use it primarily as a range gun, or for winter carry in a coat or jacket pocket. I generally carry the Model 38-0 and the Model 638-1 as my EDC (Every Day Carry).

Good luck,

Dave

 

[jframejoey]

K?

Broad Arrow looks like you have a model 10 or 12 there not a 36, still a nice peice. Got one on hold at the LGS til after xmas. - Joe

 

[hangnoose]

J frames

If you have never shot a full load 357 in a snubby, try it before you buy one. They are extremely loud, recoil is fierce, a large flash (blinding at night?) and a follow up shot is slower than with a mild mannered 38 special, + the cylinder of the 38 spec will be a tad shorter. An enclosed hammer is a + for pocket carry as it won't collect dust & you could shoot thru a coat pocket without drawing if needed. I have a 640 no dash as well as an ultra light & prefer the feel of the extra wt & all steel as well as shooting it much better. Wood vs rubber stocks are up to you I use the rubber as it fills my hand, stays put, and absorbs recoil better. the wood slides out of the pocket slick as can be, without catching on clothes.

 

[C Broad Arrow]

Broad Arrow looks like you have a model 10 or 12 there not a 36, still a nice peice. Got one on hold at the LGS til after xmas. - Joe

Hi Joe...The crane stamp would tend to disagree with you

 

[guskody]

j frame

my first J was a 642 no lock.

my last J was a 640 pro.

If you were going to use it for pocket carry only, I would consider the 642 no lock.

However for me, it would be the 640 pro...a truly versatile little revolver. I can pocket carry (works for me, maybe too heavy for some), or carry IWB or OWB depending on how I am dressed.

Add in the night sights and moon clip feature, it's pretty tough to beat.

As mentioned, grips can be changed out to best fit you.

 

[jframejoey]

36?

Thats cool. Ive seen Smiths stamped as other models but usually K frames as other K frames not a K as a J. - Joe

 

[C Broad Arrow]

Thats cool. Ive seen Smiths stamped as other models but usually K frames as other K frames not a K as a J. - Joe

What would make you think this is a K frame?