I'd pay $500 for that one in a heartbeat.
First N Frame
- Thread starter Anothergrumpyoldman
- Start date
Well done- 1917s are awesome at any price, much less at $500!
The 1917 has shallow grooves for hardball jacketed bullets. Factory loaded lead bullets are too soft. For lead bullets, use a harder lead alloy like Lyman # 5 alloy, or slow down the velocity, or both for improved accuracy.
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- Dec 29, 2014
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You're in good shape
I bought a raggedy 1917 parts gun a year or two ago for $250. It was all assembled, but the barrel was obviously loose in the frame. When I got it home, I tried to remove it, but as it unthreaded, it was harder to turn all the way out. After I had it in hand and could take some accurate measurements, I realized that some one had probably installed a replacement barrel, didn't get it to time up with the barrel tight and decided to shoot it anyway. Apparently for a while. The OD at the rear of the barrel was about .008" larger than just ahead where the threads began, so they had beaten the forcing cone into submission and belled the rear of the barrel by shooting it with a loose barrel, which explains why it was so hard to remove.
I ran a S&W N frame tap into the frame and was relieved to see that those threads were still snug and in good shape. The original barrel was pitted in the bore as well as the rear end damaged, so I scouted around for a new barrel. Looked high & low with no luck for anything that would work. Happened to mention my sad mess to a friend who told me that he used to have one, but had traded it to another guy to sweeten up a trade deal they had done. Turned out the guy still had the barrel and it wound up coming to me at no charge. And it is dang-near perfect, no pitting, great rifling, except for the bluing about gone. Perfect barrel to go with my franken-1917.
The chambers are about as pitted as the barrel was and while I'd use it if I had to, I'm still looking out for a cylinder in better condition.
So for what you got for $500, you scored big!
I bought a raggedy 1917 parts gun a year or two ago for $250. It was all assembled, but the barrel was obviously loose in the frame. When I got it home, I tried to remove it, but as it unthreaded, it was harder to turn all the way out. After I had it in hand and could take some accurate measurements, I realized that some one had probably installed a replacement barrel, didn't get it to time up with the barrel tight and decided to shoot it anyway. Apparently for a while. The OD at the rear of the barrel was about .008" larger than just ahead where the threads began, so they had beaten the forcing cone into submission and belled the rear of the barrel by shooting it with a loose barrel, which explains why it was so hard to remove.
I ran a S&W N frame tap into the frame and was relieved to see that those threads were still snug and in good shape. The original barrel was pitted in the bore as well as the rear end damaged, so I scouted around for a new barrel. Looked high & low with no luck for anything that would work. Happened to mention my sad mess to a friend who told me that he used to have one, but had traded it to another guy to sweeten up a trade deal they had done. Turned out the guy still had the barrel and it wound up coming to me at no charge. And it is dang-near perfect, no pitting, great rifling, except for the bluing about gone. Perfect barrel to go with my franken-1917.
The chambers are about as pitted as the barrel was and while I'd use it if I had to, I'm still looking out for a cylinder in better condition.
So for what you got for $500, you scored big!
I have a very nice triplelock .44 HE that has had the front sight modified in a manner similar to yours. My local gunsmith has told me that he could restore it to factory dimensions and that only he and I and possibly a very astute collector would ever know. He also told me that I should try shooting it with the modified sights as someone went to all the trouble for a reason. It is a fixed sight variant and this always plays the devil with me because I have a tendency to shoot high and to the left with fixed sights and if this were the only handgun I owned I would learn to compensate for the aberration and get along just fine. I am inclined to add a Wondersight to this revolver and enjoy shooting it more often.
I do enjoy shooting my Brazilian model of 1917, I had it shortened to 4", installed a Wondersight and while getting it shortened I had my friend install a red ramp Baughman style front sight. I do most of my handgun shooting at 10 yards offhand and on a standard profile target I can stay in the 9 ring off hand unsupported, I do real well left handed with it also. Until I picked up a sweet 3" 24-3 Lew Horton model it was my favorite carry/car piece. I don't fool around with moon clips and switched to .45AR years ago, never looked back. I shoot mostly 185gr. Rainier plated bullets loaded the same as 185gr. Hornady XTPs which are used for carry.
Have fun with your new N-frame, I have found that with the heavier frame .45ACP or .45AR is a real pleasure to shoot. If you haven't tried a Model of 1955 you owe yourself a real treat. I have one of those that was cut down to 5" and worked over to shoot bowling pins, it is a real pleasure to shoot and shoots lights out, much better than I am capable of. I spend too much time shooting black powder muzzleloaders and really should spend more time shooting the nice revolvers I own.
I do enjoy shooting my Brazilian model of 1917, I had it shortened to 4", installed a Wondersight and while getting it shortened I had my friend install a red ramp Baughman style front sight. I do most of my handgun shooting at 10 yards offhand and on a standard profile target I can stay in the 9 ring off hand unsupported, I do real well left handed with it also. Until I picked up a sweet 3" 24-3 Lew Horton model it was my favorite carry/car piece. I don't fool around with moon clips and switched to .45AR years ago, never looked back. I shoot mostly 185gr. Rainier plated bullets loaded the same as 185gr. Hornady XTPs which are used for carry.
Have fun with your new N-frame, I have found that with the heavier frame .45ACP or .45AR is a real pleasure to shoot. If you haven't tried a Model of 1955 you owe yourself a real treat. I have one of those that was cut down to 5" and worked over to shoot bowling pins, it is a real pleasure to shoot and shoots lights out, much better than I am capable of. I spend too much time shooting black powder muzzleloaders and really should spend more time shooting the nice revolvers I own.
Reminds me of a time when, as a young machinist, I saw an older fellow fix a messed up part and make the repair look like it had never been repaired. I asked him how he learned to do that, because I was amazed. His reply, " I screwed up a lot when I was learning my trade. Had to learn to fix 'em good so I didn't get canned."Ralph, How'd you get so smart. I needed to hear that
Great deal on a nice revolver...
Robert
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I happen to be one of those who would regard a functional ramped front sight as an improvement. I understand what's going on with collectors, but I just don't care. POA=POI? Small group? $500 N-frame in .45ACP? That's not a question; that's bragging.
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OP
Anothergrumpyoldman
Member
I picked up some 230 gr FMJ bullets at my gun clubs swap meet on 10-21.
Loaded up 50 rounds with 5.1 gr. of Universal Clays and WLP primers. Nice mild load for my messed up hand. Here are the results hand held at 10 yds. 12 shots, one flyer ( my fault). I think it will be much improved from a rest as I am not as steady as I used to be.
Loaded up 50 rounds with 5.1 gr. of Universal Clays and WLP primers. Nice mild load for my messed up hand. Here are the results hand held at 10 yds. 12 shots, one flyer ( my fault). I think it will be much improved from a rest as I am not as steady as I used to be.
Attachments
Remind me to not stand in front of you!!
Ralph Tremaine
Ralph Tremaine
Jack Flash
Member
You have to remember that these were sold as surplus for very reasonable prices after both World Wars. At the time, they were considered by many as a cheap gun to chop, file, and modify any way they wanted to. It looks like yours got off lightly.
When you change over to Pachs, be sure to carefully store the original stocks in a labeled bag somewhere you can find them easily. They are worth a lot all by themselves. Remember that the serial number was written in pencil on the inside so with the aid of a strong light held at the correct angle you may well find that these do number to the gun.
When you change over to Pachs, be sure to carefully store the original stocks in a labeled bag somewhere you can find them easily. They are worth a lot all by themselves. Remember that the serial number was written in pencil on the inside so with the aid of a strong light held at the correct angle you may well find that these do number to the gun.
OP
Anothergrumpyoldman
Member
Jack Flash,
I checked the penciled numbers on the stocks with a strong light and magnifier. They don't match. All other serialized parts do. The weird part is the first 3 numbers don't match but the second three do. I wonder if someone screwed up when penciling the numbers. All my stocks that aren't used are in a parts draw labeled to the gun they belong too. Good advice.
I checked the penciled numbers on the stocks with a strong light and magnifier. They don't match. All other serialized parts do. The weird part is the first 3 numbers don't match but the second three do. I wonder if someone screwed up when penciling the numbers. All my stocks that aren't used are in a parts draw labeled to the gun they belong too. Good advice.
