First Revolver

Which revolver

  • Taurus Model 65

    Votes: 1 0.6%

  • Smith and Wesson Model 10 no dash

    Votes: 23 14.9%

  • Smith and wesson Model 64-5

    Votes: 78 50.6%

  • Other (write it down below)

    Votes: 52 33.8%
  • Total voters
    154
  • Poll closed .
My first revolver was a Highway Patrolman, pictured below in blue next to my second revolver a 586. Both inexpensive gun show finds.
 
"Mattel Fanner 50" when l was nine.. Kinda basket case too.

Still have it too.I doubt Mattel's willing to rebuild it..
 
Around here I trip on 586 4" guns in pawn shops and stores with used guns, most often for around $500. I'd take one of those over the choices given. But out of those, take the 64.
 
Well I have to admit this is kind of awesome. I didn't expect so many replies. In my area you can find snubbies pretty cheap, but full size revolvers run high in price(even used ones). With the 64's I have five to chose from at the moment(or more I forgot my count), sorry about any confusion. btw there is also a 64-3 but I think the 64-5 has a better trigger. My current main handgun is a SD9VE(stock), just so you now where I'm coming from/used to.
 
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I know people that are very happy with their Tauruses....

steamloco76 said:
I've owned a few Taurus revolvers and while they were generally accurate and reliable (except for a model 85 UltraLite!!!) they just do not have the refined trigger actions, fit and pride of ownership you get with a Smith and Wesson.

I voted for the model 64-5 as the stainless .38 Special revolver is a fine all around choice. I owned a model 64-2 which was a corrections department trade in and it was a fine shooter.

If you budget allows a stretch into the $600 range, I would look for a 4 inch model 686 .357 Magnum. The 686 can shoot any .38 Special or .357 Magnum ammunition you will find and has the advantage of good adjustable sights. The Ruger GP-100 also fills this role very well and can be had for $450 to $500 used.
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....but it's kind of hit or miss when it comes to getting a good one because they have had up and down quality issues.
 
Did you ever.....

Brianbasic said:
Well I have to admit this is kind of awesome. I didn't expect so many replies. In my area you can find snubbies pretty cheap, but full size revolvers run high in price(even used ones). With the 64's I have five to chose from at the moment(or more I forgot my count), sorry about any confusion. btw there is also a 64-3 but I think the 64-5 has a better trigger. My current main handgun is a SD9VE(stock), just so you now where I'm coming from/used to.
Click to expand...

Did you ever sit down and decide what you want it for and what kind of shooting you intend to do.

My first gun was a model 10 snub because I wanted something for HD. After I got it I realized how much I liked guns and shooting. In order to get a 686 I had to TRADE IN the model 10. Boo hoo hoo. Goodbye old paint. I hope to get another some day with a longer barrel. I'm more disciplined now but back in the day I wasn't very good at shooting the snub.
 
A FIRST S&W Revolver recommendation from me would be a Vintage Model 15 if a .38 Spl. is desired or a Vintage Model 18 of a .22 is desired. IMHO they are two of the very best Smith every made.
 
My first revolver (and first handgun purchase ever) was a brand new 6 inch S&W Model 617, that was quickly followed by a new 6 inch Model 686, then a used Model 640, and lastly a new 6 inch Model 629.

That's one J, one K, one L, and one N frame. No desire for an X frame at all. The next handguns I have set my sights on <pun intended> will not be revolvers, I'm thinking its time to experience semi autos and am looking at the Beretta 92FS and/or a CZ 75 B.
 
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If we are talking about first gun, mine was a Colt Python, serial #6306 bought in 1959 when I was in school at Aberdeen Proving Grounds in Maryland as a young GI. $125 at the time and my pay was $78/month.

Stu
 
Yea if we're talking about our personal first revolvers, mine was a 629-5 4 inch 44 magnum. I wanted a revolver to carry while hunting and found it at a gun show. But I would recommend a 357 over a 38 special because a 357 can shoot both where the 38 can't. So maybe look for a 357 smith and wesson or if you set on getting a model 64 get one off gunbroker if possible. There are a lot on there for less money, police or security trade ins. I looked today and seen several for $300 to $400 buy it now price. Also I would watch some videos or research how to inspect a used revolver. There is a lot you have to look for to see if it's been abused or messed with internally.
 
340 CT

I am pleased with my choice of first revolver. Easy to conceal , weighs as much as my cellphone. 357 magnum loads were a hand full. I had MagNa Porting done and today was my test run. There is much less recoil and I didn't notice excess muzzle flash. I'm writing this because I read a lot about to port or not. I highly recommend it. This gun that was great is now awesome. 38+p was easy for me to handle, 357 is still tough but manageable. I was planning on getting a 640 but now i dont feel the need.
 
A 617 or 17. Maybe not the one you were hoping but nonetheless a very useful, cheap to shoot and great for everyone old/young, male/female,
And really teaches you the fundamentals on the cheap
 
The first suggestion in this makes the second of questionable value.
chrishu44 said:
[...] or if you set on getting a model 64 get one off gunbroker if possible. There are a lot on there for less money, police or security trade ins. I looked today and seen several for $300 to $400 buy it now price. Also I would watch some videos or research how to inspect a used revolver. There is a lot you have to look for to see if it's been abused or messed with internally.
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A huge advantage of buying locally is that you can inspect it before deciding. That is lost if you buy off GoneBroker. Using the average of your closing prices, after paying shipping and FFL fees at best he'd save $50. That assumes the $453.26 price the original poster said allowed him to chose between 5 Model 64s did not include sales tax which he he did not write and assumes no negotiation is possible. States vary but in my state an FFL has to collect use tax in lieu of sales tax on out of state auction purchases. For the small price difference I'd buy locally so I could pick a revolver that does not arrive in need of a tune up.
 
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I would get the 64. One of the easiest revolvers to learn to shoot, durable, lots of options for grips and holsters. Since this is your first revolver you will probably want to practice with light loads anyway so the lack of .357 magnum is not a dealbreaker imo.
 
k22fan said:
The first suggestion in this makes the second of questionable value.

As far as I understand you can inspect any gun you buy online before you pick it up at the ffl. If there was a obvious function issue you wouldn't accept the gun, it would get sent back. Most of the auctions have a no fire inspection, same as in finding one in a local store unless they have a range or something. I would rather support local businesses, but if you can find a much better price or its a rare gun online shopping is a option.
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chrishu44 said:
k22fan said:
The first suggestion in this makes the second of questionable value.

As far as I understand you can inspect any gun you buy online before you pick it up at the ffl. If there was a obvious function issue you wouldn't accept the gun, it would get sent back. Most of the auctions have a no fire inspection, same as in finding one in a local store unless they have a range or something. I would rather support local businesses, but if you can find a much better price or its a rare gun online shopping is a option.
Click to expand...
Usually when buyers reject a gun they pay return shipping costs and the seller does not refund their original shipping costs. That means it cost the customer $80 to $100 to inspect the rejected revolver.

While eBay does not even allow a picture of a gun in a holster ad they do have a way buyers can force sellers to pay the costs of shipping a rejected item both directions. The buyer can start a case in their Resolution Center claiming the item received was "not as advertised." That is likely to be contested by the seller but if eBay sides with the buyer the seller has to pay for a shipping label that the buyer down loads off eBay. I've not heard of a similar system within Gun Broker but I never had to research it. If you buy out of the classified ads here you can expect to pay shipping for both directions if you reject a gun.
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Oh, this is now a first revolver thread?

Way late to this game, bought used in 2012.

DSC_0006_zpsd0bc114b.jpg
 
Thanks K22 for setting me straight, thats a lot to think about when looking at online sites. I won't clutter this thread since I've already gave my opinion.
 
For the OP, M64-5 . As long as all the available revolvers are reasonably tight and timed, cherry pick for smoothest and most consistant DA pull.

For myself, I'd take the M10 no dash.
 
What I bought

I bought the Model 64-5. I found out it was a former Anheuser Busch Security gun. It has some odd features(as far as I know their odd) tritium night sights, SN# on butt and frame by dash #, and no assembly # on the frame. I will make a tread and post pics sometime in the next 2 weeks. Marry Christmas.
 
If you were comparing the Taurus to a Rohm, I might pick the Taurus, but no one would buy a Taurus over a S&W if money were not an issue. BTW, you don't see a lot of no dash model 10's around.
 
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My first revolver was a model 28 , 6" barrel . They have gone up some in value . If looking today for something under $400 , I would watch for a model 15 . They are 38spl . I had one once , still remember it .
If you are patient they can be found for $400 , or less and they have bigger sights and adjustable sights , easier to see . Good Luck
 
My first was a brand new nickle 4" heavy barrel model 10 that my dad gave me when I graduated high school. The following Christmas I got a new nickle 4" 19.

A little latter he traded me a new 64, and 66 for them. I was seriously into stainless.
 
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