First time reloaded at the range.

[rockquarry]

Once again, thank you all for sharing your knowledge with me.

I don't have a ransom rest nor a chronograph. During my last visit at the range, i found that 20,4 to 21.3 gr where pretty good, arround 1" to 3/4" at 25 yards and shoooting boths arms in the air . But, Lyman 50th edition show the starting load at 19.3 as opposed to Hornady 10th ed showing strating load as 20.4

By reading a lot about IMR 4227, it seem that this powder is more accurate near top load and compressed. But, the target reacquisition is longer for me. Also, i'm concerned about the well being of my 629-6 for always shooting full magnum load all the time.

As for "dirtier" powder, it's a little concern to me. Cleaning is also part if the ritual.

A chronograph is very handy, but the Ransom rest... spend the time to learn good shooting technique and use a good rest. Shooting at 25 yards, a skilled shooter will see little or no advantage in using a Ransom rest as long as the shooter is not fatigued. The Ransom doesn't get tired. Also, it will do better than most of us at 50 yards.

I learned to shoot from a rest. I sold my Ramsom rest.

 

[stansdds]

A good chronograph is a very handy tool for the hand loader. A Ransom Rest, not so much. A Ransom Rest is good for determining pure accuracy of a load and firearm combination and it does not get tired, but it is not a necessity.

 

[oysterer]

I see you have HS-6, the best accurate mid power powder there is for 44 specials, use with a mag primer. I use 44spl brass around 8-8.4 gr. Never any better load I found. Use at own risk, use a manual.

 

[BLUEDOT37]

There is a cannelure in the plated bullet. The bullet is seared halfay in the cannelure. Coal is 1.610"
So, what is it i'm doing wrong when applying the roll crimp?

Cannelures on most plated bullets are usually nothing more than seating references. Too shallow & the plating is too thin.

Typically only premium plated bullets, like Speer's Uni-Core Gold Dots, are made for full magnum loads & heavy roll crimps.

I went to Campro's website & while they don't list a max velocity they do say they'll suitable for magnum velocities, & their powder charge data reflects that, but they don't list any associated velocities for them.

Seeing these appear to be of higher than "typical plated bullet quality" there's definitely no need to limit yourself to a taper crimp with them.

I actually wish they had some around here to try. How expensive are they?

Can you post a close-up picture of the bullets only, so we can get a better idea about them?

.

 

[Pat73]

The 44 240gr are arround $82 canadian for 500 ogives.

I've included a pic of a brand new Starline brass with a rool crimp. Looks much better than the previously fired. Per instruction from the company, the coal is 1.610, in the middle of the cannelure. Should i seat the bullet deeper in the the brass in order to obtain 1.600 and fully cover the cannelure?

 

[Pat73]

I see you have HS-6, the best accurate mid power powder there is for 44 specials, use with a mag primer. I use 44spl brass around 8-8.4 gr. Never any better load I found. Use at own risk, use a manual.

I'll try it for sure. Thank's for the input.

 

[gwpercle]

You're right on all counts. A magnum primer is often worth trying. It seems that shooters today needlessly obsess over "dirty" powders or "dirty" loads as well as a few flecks of unburned powder.

If they can get beyond this and concentrate on accuracy, they'll be way ahead. I only use conventionally lubed cast bullets in handguns so everything is dirty, but accurate. A real dirty handgun takes no longer to clean than one that is only slightly dirty, but some have yet to figure this out.

So very , very true ... they hear how "dirty" Unique is and pass up one of the best powders ever made ...
Accuracy and versatility beats a few unburned flakes of powder any day ... at least in my reloading book .
Gary

 

[Carrier]

After more than a year reading books and lurking on forums, i finally try my hand at reloading. I used my 629-6 and my Henry Big Boy.

I've used once fired Starline brass with IMR 4227, CCI 300 and some 240gr plated bullets from a Quebec company, Campro.

The loads where:
20.4, 20.7, 21, 21.3, 21.5, 21.9, 22.2, 22.5, 22.8 and 23.1 target was at 15 yards for revolver and 50 yards for my lever action.

From 20.4 up to 21.3, the recoil was strong, but ok and grouping was 1" to 1/4"

From 21.5 to 23.1 recoil was very strong and grouping grew bigger than 3"

For the lever action, all reloaded ammo where excellent and grouping was 3/4" for all rounds.

I need more practive with the revolver. Only down side was the unburnt IMR 4227 kernel no mather the amount of powder and how dirty it was.

Needless to say i will try the other powders bougth last month:
Titegroup, HP-38, Universal, Hs6 and W572.

Please feel free to gave me advice on all powder i have and that you are using.

I use a lot of Campro bullets from 9 mm to 45 Colt. Campro makes a really good plated bullet. I also use pretty much the same powders as well as the FCD. You might want to back off a little on the crimp. But with what you are saying about the way they are shooting you are doing good. Try HS6 but use a magnum primer.
The load data that Campro gives on their site mirrors what Hodgdon gives for jacketed bullets.

 

[glowe]

The 44 240gr are arround $82 canadian for 500 ogives.

I've included a pic of a brand new Starline brass with a rool crimp. Looks much better than the previously fired. Per instruction from the company, the coal is 1.610, in the middle of the cannelure. Should i seat the bullet deeper in the the brass in order to obtain 1.600 and fully cover the cannelure?

Thanks for adding the image. That is for sure a cannelure and one that I do not see often in plated bullets. For me, I think you are still crimping too much. With a roll crimp, the top of the roll should make contact with the bullet in the cannelure. There should be no "collar" or ridge above the crimp. I think with that particular bullet, you could raise your crimp around a 1/16" so it produces a nice rounded crimp without the collar. Again, the goal is to secure the bullet, as well as not stress the brass any more than is necessary so you will be able to maximize the life of the brass.

 

[Pat73]

Thanks for adding the image. That is for sure a cannelure and one that I do not see often in plated bullets. For me, I think you are still crimping too much. With a roll crimp, the top of the roll should make contact with the bullet in the cannelure. There should be no "collar" or ridge above the crimp. I think with that particular bullet, you could raise your crimp around a 1/16" so it produces a nice rounded crimp without the collar. Again, the goal is to secure the bullet, as well as not stress the brass any more than is necessary so you will be able to maximize the life of the brass.

Thank you. Tommorow i will disassemble y dummy round and will be adjusting my Lee fcd a liitle at the time. I will post picture. And talking about pucture, how can i turn picture in the up position? The forum seem to turn my picture conterclockwise.

 

[glowe]

Are you attaching a standard jpeg? If using the Forum to post the images, they sshould show up as you see them on your computer. If using your phone, I understand that some will rotate images.

 

[Pat73]

Just readjust my Lee fcd during my lunchbreak.

It looks more round and not crushed in the cannelure.

 

[oddshooter]

I'm with Glowe,

The crimp is too strong for that bullet or the die is too deep?
Not a giant deal shooting sometimes, but you will eat through your brass.

Prescut
I can tell a crimp strength by how many wacks it takes in a puller. Mine are usually two good wacks to release completely. Always inspect and measure the bullet afterwards and see what the seating and crimping may have changed.

 

[glowe]

Just readjust my Lee fcd during my lunchbreak.

It looks more round and not crushed in the cannelure.

Looks much better, but guess I am too much of a perfectionist and would set the bullet slightly deeper so the crimp ends fully in the center of the groove. That crimp would be fine for revolver, but might allow the bullet to push rearward when stacked in a levergun magazine?? Take a reload and push the bullet hard against a solid surface and check for movement.

With today's shortages of brass, it is more important than ever not to over-stress your cases when reloading, if you want to be sure to get maximum life. As for heavy crimps that can increase pressure and if one is loading heavy already, it is best not to over-crimp.

 

[Pat73]

Glowe, i have seated the bullet deeper, passing from 1.610 to 1.603. I must say you are right. It looks better and the crimp seem really rounded with no distress brass.

Without a closeup on the bullet, it look not overcrimped. But when zoomed, it look overcrimped.

 

[STORMINORMAN]

I'll throw in my $0.02 worth...

1. That seems to be quite a bit (in excess of 20 gr) of 4227 powder and pretty high velocities for a plated bullet: a!most any plated bullet? I would save that powder for jacketed or hard cast hunting loads.

2. You have a couple powders in WIN 231 and Universal that are a lot more thrifty and which can handle your plated 240 gr bullets at respectable velocities for range/target action.

Just IMHO...

CHEERS!

P.S. Your latest crimps look fine to me... Again, IMHO.

 

[ddixie884]

Glowe, i have seated the bullet deeper, passing from 1.610 to 1.603. I must say you are right. It looks better and the crimp seem really rounded with no distress brass.

Without a closeup on the bullet, it look not overcrimped. But when zoomed, it look overcrimped.

I like that much better and think you are getting a better feel for loading quality handloads. I'd give that a 9.5...........

 

[Pat73]

I like that much better and think you are getting a better feel for loading quality handloads. I'd give that a 9.5...........

Thank you sir.

 

[Greenjoytj]

If the crimp shown in the photos from a LEE Factory Crimp Die that die is a collet style crimp die. The collet creates maximum crimp two ways.
Look in the top of the die when you see the collet fingers close that's maximum crimp the first way.
The second way is how far the die body is turned down to the shell holder.
Turning the die body down to touch the shell holder creates the widest pressed in band of brass around the case mouth.
Turning the die body up the collet will create the beginnings of a light roll crimp. LEE says their collet factory crimp die can swage a crimp into a bullet with out a cannelure.
This LEE die create a crimp pattern/style crimp like a Redding Profile crimp and RCBS has a similar crimp die product. None of these die make a classic roll crimp, they make a pressed in band factory ammo style crimp.