Fix Your Shield Before It Fails!!!

[xdmshooter59]

NOn,

Personally, I honestly commend you for bringing this potential problem to light and a possible fix. Had I not seen this thread I likely would have never noticed that the spring was not fully seated and because of your thread I did seat it. I may have never had an issue, but now I have something to watch for.

No company is perfect, large company or small. Defects are a part of manufacturing. I work in Quality control and sometimes business decisions ($) take precedence over quality decisions. That usually comes down from upper management. Sometimes corners are cut due to cost savings and backfire, other times the design is just plain flawed. I don't consider myself a so called "S&W coolaid drinker" If I have a legit gripe I won't be bashful in stating so. In the case of the Shield and this particular issue we have no way to know or can we speculate what percentages of Shields are failing due to this issue. My best guess is a small percentage in comparison to the sheer number of Shields sold and that are actively in use.

But I have to admit when I first came across the title "Fix your Shield before it Fails !!" It did sound like a not "if" but "when" it happens statement. Please don't take it the wrong way, I think most of us are applauding you for bringing this up.

 

[Nonuthin]

NOn,

Personally, I honestly commend you for bringing this potential problem to light and a possible fix. Had I not seen this thread I likely would have never noticed that the spring was not fully seated and because of your thread I did seat it. I may have never had an issue, but now I have something to watch for.

(snip)

But I have to admit when I first came across the title "Fix your Shield before it Fails !!" It did sound like a not "if" but "when" it happens statement. Please don't take it the wrong way, I think most of us are applauding you for bringing this up.

Thank you for your comments and your participation.

 

[Fastbolt]

No mention was made in a Shield armorer class of any particular "problem" with the spring working its way loose. Yes, it's easy to glance it as part of a normal visual inspection during cleaning, just like visually confirming other parts & assemblies on the guns appear in normal condition.

The spring isn't intended to be removed as part of any "routine" cleaning or inspection, either. Don't pick and pry at it. (This isn't exactly a new thing, either, kind of like how the rear sight base and extractor was mentioned as never being removed for "normal maintenance" in the previous 3rd gen S&W pistols, only being removed for repair/replacement.)

This little U-shaped slide stop lever spring is only intended to be removed for replacement. Replacing it involves using something flat to press the spring into the recess in the side of the locking block. The flat end of a new brass punch (think 1/4") can do nicely, positioned across the top end of the spring, to push/seat the widened "wiggle" part of the spring flush into the recess. The "wiggle" spot in the wire provides for a tight press fit in the groove.

BTW, this is the same sort of spring/block housing design used to power the Shield manual safety lever, too.

We've got a fair (and growing) number of guys and gals shooting Shields and carrying them off-duty, and some retired guys, and aside from a couple of them finding the recoil spring assemblies stiff to retract, the little guns seem to run pretty well. Nobody has had the slide stop lever wire spring work its way loose yet. If one does, one of our armorers will no doubt remove it and press in a new one.

 

[xdmshooter59]

We've got a fair (and growing) number of guys and gals shooting Shields and carrying them off-duty, and some retired guys, and aside from a couple of them finding the recoil spring assemblies stiff to retract, the little guns seem to run pretty well. Nobody has had the slide stop lever wire spring work its way loose yet. If one does, one of our armorers will no doubt remove it and press in a new one.

Here's the perfect solution to that. Makes a very noticeable difference. This mod IMO is superior to the factory spring/rod assembly. Makes the slide much easier and smoother to manipulate. A no brainer. Smith and Wesson Shield 9mm & 40 cal Stainless Steel Guide Rod Assembly - Stainless Steel Guide Rods

 

[Fastbolt]

Here's the perfect solution to that. Makes a very noticeable difference. This mod IMO is superior to the factory spring/rod assembly. Makes the slide much easier and smoother to manipulate. A no brainer. Smith and Wesson Shield 9mm & 40 cal Stainless Steel Guide Rod Assembly - Stainless Steel Guide Rods

Thanks, but there might be a couple of potential issues with the use of an aftermarket guide rod/RSA to consider when it comes to an authorized/personally-owned weapon dedicated to an off-duty (or even duty) role.

First, since we're talking about approved off-duty/secondary duty weapons, any changes of parts from original factory (aside from something relatively simple, like sights or a grip sleeve) may introduce a degree of unnecessary exposure to potential liability in the event of a mechanical problem. Also, if it's not a factory provided or factory approved part, then the factory can (reasonably, and understandably) claim a lack of responsibility for its usage and any unwanted performance.

Secondly, if the "problem" were to involve unwanted/unpleasant consequences for the user, then the armorer who decided to take it upon him/herself to "authorize" the aftermarket part would be exposed to a degree of personal, individual responsibility and liability that might not otherwise exist if the factory (or factor approved) parts had been used, and the armorer had followed practice and policy of adhering to the factory armorer training (use of factory parts).

Factory provided/approved parts typically receive a lot of R&D, and ongoing monitoring of user/customer feedback, to make sure the parts meet the desired performance and reliability standards set by the engineers. Sure, sometimes these things get revised, and things can sometimes start to change once the product gets out in the hands of actual owners/users.

Anyhow, let's say the use of some aftermarket part/assembly resulted in a problem which resulted in injury or death to the user/owner. Now, even if the aftermarket company can be found to have some degree of liability ... it's still the armorer who has to explain to the family why a non-factory part was used in the first place, and perhaps without approval (depending on policy). Not a position in which I'd ever wish to find myself. What armorer would, right?

In earlier duty pistol times we even had to give careful consideration to making changes to relatively "simple" things like recoil springs, mainsprings and magazine springs. We'd sometimes use aftermarket springs in them, but only after careful consideration and having them approved by someone in the decision-making chain (also called the liability loop ).

FWIW, since most major gun makers have their springs made by outside spring makers, it's sometimes possible to end up using "aftermarket" springs made by the original OEM spring maker, but then you still have to give some consideration to how you're now stepping outside the original engineering specs, as determined by the gun engineers.

Making changes to sporting and gaming guns is one thing, but when you enter the area of anything that's dedicated to service as a defensive weapon, and especially as an "approved & authorized" weapon, there's always going to be the degree of liability exposure to consider. It's often prudent to act to avoid unnecessary exposure to liability.

 

[garddogg56]

Just checked mine 1000 + rounds NO PROBLEM

 

[ThrowinRocks]

To avoid any confusion I may have can someone tell me if mine looks normal?
See attached photos.
Thanks.

 

[akdude]

Looks fine, easiest way to tell if its starting to come out is look for the black paint on spring wearing off!

 

[rwsmith]

What bothers me...

What bothers me is that a warranty repair that they used to turn around in less than two weeks is taking longer.

 

[Old_Cop]

I saw this thread and I just had to look. Sure enough the spring is silver on the side from rubbing on the slide. I tried tapping it back but can't seem to get it entirely inside the block. It seems to be captive in side the polymer frame. I don't carry the gun but it is in my truck. I'll check it every time that I clean. One more thing to worry about.

 

[Nonuthin]

I saw this thread and I just had to look. Sure enough the spring is silver on the side from rubbing on the slide. I tried tapping it back but can't seem to get it entirely inside the block. It seems to be captive in side the polymer frame. I don't carry the gun but it is in my truck. I'll check it every time that I clean. One more thing to worry about.

Silver on the entire spring is not so good. As you already found, the spring is not fully inset flush with its locking block groove. Silver on just the end is worse because that's the end that can pop out and cause shooting malfunctions and prevent slide removal.

Either way, I have been successful tapping the entire spring back into its groove by using a small tack hammer, a 1/16" pin punch and starting at the little wrinkle in the center of the spring and working toward the curved end that disappears down into the frame, then working toward the end until the spring is fully flush. Sometimes I had to repeat this 2-3 times before it was flush along its entire length. No heavy hammering is necessary! This has worked for me every time on my own 13 Shields, 9mm, 40's & 45's.

And, to appease the S&W KoolAid drinkers who criticize my thread title wording, let me offer this disclaimer again:

There have been numerous instances of these springs popping out and causing malfunctions and preventing slide removal - WAY TOO MANY for my taste. It may never happen to you because we know that after 6 years of Shield production, not every spring has popped out. If you believe S&W's marketing claims, over 1 Million Shields have been sold. Obviously, they all didn't pop their slide lock springs and jam. As to what production dates seem to pop most, my first hand experience with 13 of my own Shields and 3 of my friends with Shield 9mm's dating back to 2016 production, all are suspect from 2016 to present. One friend's 2017-made, 9mm Shield spring end DID pop completely out and cause stovepipes, failures to return to battery and prevented slide removal. It seems that the problem of the spring end jamming the slide appears more frequently on the most recent production guns.

So, again I say FIX YOUR SHIELD BEFORE IT FAILS because if it does pop its spring, the likelihood of your being able to seat the spring back into its groove and for it to stay there is almost zero because of the spring end distortion that will likely occur once it pops out and jams the slide.

In my opinion, it's certainly worth checking this spring to avoid malfunctions like that and/or a long trip back to the factory.

 

[DBasye1]

In my opinion, it's certainly worth checking this spring to avoid malfunctions like that and/or a long trip back to the factory.

Your opinion is absolutely correct. Since there appears to have been a problem with a few pistols out there.

Doing this VERY SIMPLE visual check, when you disasemble the weapon, seems to be a no brainer.

Many people clean without inspecting things, even a quick glance could address this and many other portential problems

Proper message is everything

People like myself, who have owned many different brands of rifles and pistols and who have unfortunately seen warranty work from a few, and who arent really tied to any manufacturers's weapons, appreciate sound advice.

Almost ALL of what you have offered is sound advice..........

SOME of what you have offered sounds like sky is falling advice, which quite frankly is NOT what is happening.

It sound like there are a small number of weapons being sent out that have this problem. SW needs to address this

Thanks for MOST of this thread........ I will keep an eye on it moving forward.

 

[xdmshooter59]

Either way, I have been successful tapping the entire spring back into its groove by using a small tack hammer, a 1/16" pin punch and starting at the little wrinkle in the center of the spring and working toward the curved end that disappears down into the frame, then working toward the end until the spring is fully flush. Sometimes I had to repeat this 2-3 times before it was flush along its entire length. No heavy hammering is necessary! This has worked for me every time on my own 13 Shields, 9mm, 40's & 45's.

This is exactly the process I performed to seat mine. AS Nonuthin stated, you must start at the middle or the wrinkle and slide the punch toward each end all the while tapping the spring back in. I also had to do it several times to push it all the way in, but it worked.

 

[clarkg1124]

I checked mine last night,and it is was completely seated from the factory.Mine is a .45(mfg.3/17/17).I did a close inspection of the internals,and could find no wear.
Clark

 

[Coyote56]

Let's see. . .this sounds like why I don't and never will carry a Shield. No need for anybody to say, "I've never had a problem with mine." I will not carry any handgun that isn't proven to be 100% reliable. Those guns can sit in my collection. . .not in my pocket or on my belt. My carry gun is a M10 or M64 RB snub.

Anything made by humankind will never be 100% reliable.
Used to carry a Model 28. One fine day, while sitting in a drawer the main spring decided to snap in two...just like that. Imagine my surprise when I took the revolver out to shoot it. The rattle and VERY light trigger pull gave it away.
That is why a routine, cursory inspection of any gun you plan on using...for any purpose, is mandatory.

 

[Fastbolt]

I saw this thread and I just had to look. Sure enough the spring is silver on the side from rubbing on the slide. I tried tapping it back but can't seem to get it entirely inside the block. It seems to be captive in side the polymer frame. I don't carry the gun but it is in my truck. I'll check it every time that I clean. One more thing to worry about.

Hey, if it worries you that it's not flush with the side of the locking block, why not have it checked by S&W? If there's something just slightly out-of-spec with either the spring (too wide) or the locking block (shallow spring groove), it's easy for the factory to replace the parts with new ones.

BTW folks, I was just told that the company is either approaching 3 million Shields sold, or has passed it. It's broken every sales record for S&W firearms ever set in the company's history.

 

[Bamabred]

Finally checked mine again yesterday. It wasn't flush, but it is now. Thanks for the reminder.

 

[gdnagle]

Nothing is 100% reliable. Everybody makes compromises in what they carry . . .

Correct if it’s mechanical it will eventually break or wear out, not saying today or tomorrow but it will wear and break. Heck I’ve even seen solid objects break, broke a axel shaft 1” solid steel, defect in casting. The only thing you can count on being 100% is you will die sometime.

 

[rsrocket1]

What bothers me is that a warranty repair that they used to turn around in less than two weeks is taking longer.

It all depends on how busy or short staffed they are. A couple of years ago turn around time was over 3 weeks. The slide lock tab broke off of my M&P 40 and rather than simply sending me a replacement to install myself, I had to send it in. Fortunately I have lots of other range toys to play with so I wasn't without a gun during that time and even though it's my favorite, I didn't miss it too much.

 

[Hurryin' Hoosier]

Could you post a pick pointjng out the exact area your talking about?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

I'll second that. I don't know what he's talking about either.