Fixing Scratch on Matt Stainless SW1911? (Pics)

[oldiron1]

Hi Guys, I just purchased my first Smith & Wessson 1911 that I really like the feel of. It was a like new, used model that I purchased online and had shipped to my FFL.

While I love the gun, my heart sank when I noticed the big scratch under the dust cover, on the front of the trigger guard...I'm pretty sure the seller didn't take much care when packaging and put the 2nd magazine loose in the blue plastic S&W box and during shipping, the mag rubbed on the pistol...I know it doesn't affect it's function, but really bothers me and am wondering if there is a way to fix it, or make it even just less noticeable?

Thanks in advance for any input/education!

 

[TAROMAN]

I have had good luck blending such spots by using a Scotch-Brite™ Ultra Fine Hand Pads #7448.
Can find these in auto body supply places.
Local NAPA here has them.

 

[Nframecollector]

Scotch brite or 0000 steel wool.

 

[ronnie gore]

scratch

that is on the matte part of the frame polishing with 3m pads will make it shiney, get the edge of the frame lightly bead blasted to blend it.

 

[scooter123]

Locate a shop nearby that does Media Blasting (usually under Sand Blasting in the yellow pages), detail strip the pistol to the bare frame, and then take it to that shop to have the finish blended. With the correct media it's actually less than 5 minutes of work and a good media blaster will know what media to use. They may also do it for no charge at all if you wait for it. Then take the frame home, clean it up well in warm soapy water and dry it using a hair dryer. Then re-assemble the pistol and you have a perfect result.

 

[dfariswheel]

NOTE: Be careful about having local shops bead blast stainless or aluminum.
If the blaster has been used to blast carbon steel, the pressure will embed tiny particles of carbon steel into the metal and it'll rust later, ruining the surface.

I once had a customer who blasted an aluminum gun in a garage bead blaster and who was amazed when his aluminum frame started rusting.

If you have it done locally, make CERTAIN the blaster is used only for stainless, or make sure it's cleaned out and refilled with all new media.
Don't take anyone's word for it. A lot of local gunsmiths will just blast it in the same blaster they use for everything else and figure you'll never know the difference.
If it rusts later, "Hey it's not my fault".

Also, not all blast media is the same. What works well on auto or machine parts may not be even close to the finish on a gun.

One technique that might work if the scratches on your gun aren't too bad is to use wet or dry abrasive cloth and a small hammer.
Put a piece of sand cloth on the area and tap it with a small hammer.
Lift and move the cloth to a fresh area of the abrasive lay it down and tap again.
This can do a reasonable faux bead blasting on small areas, but the only thing that will match bead blasting is more bead blasting.

Sand paper, Scotchbrite pads, and metal polish will all make the area shiny and will absolutely not look anything like bead blasting.
This is one down side to a matte bead blasted finish.
Marr it and there's no real fix other than a fresh bead blast, and the problems with finding a unit used only for stainless AND one that uses an appropriate type of media.

 

[TEXVET]

I recently purchased a Model 66-0 (circa 1971). It had some ugly "use" marks on the frames sides. (I got it cheap).
The gunsmith at a local gun store did a fine glass bead on this gun. The scratches are still there, but you really have to look to see them. This ugly duckling now looks like a prom queen. He charged me $100, but I consider it money well spent.
The gun shoots really accurately. The factory finish was toast, so I figured and glass beading would only improve the quality of the gun.
Steel wool and a light glass bead blast should solve your situation.

I feel your pain when it comes to receiving damaged firearms. a few years ago I ordered a Les Behr Premier II. I paid $175 more to get the 1 1/2" shot group guarantee he offered. After 16 weeks of waiting, the pistol arrived at my local FFL. When we opened the cardboard box, there on the front of the slide was an 1/8" diameter area (about the size of a BB) where the bluing did not take to the steel. The Les Behr company informed me that they have no control over delivery and they would not warranty the problem.
When I pay close to $2K for a 1911, I kind of expect a sympathetic ear when I have product issues. Last Les Behr firearm I will ever own, due to their customer service.

 

[oldiron1]

Thanks guys, I really do appreciate your input and the education.

It sounds to me like I may just get used to the scratch (I'll call it character for now) until I find a qualified individual to bead blast it.

I never thought of Matte Stainless being so tough to fix, or to at least make prettier, but I do understand now after reading and thinking more about it - how it became matte in the first place.

 

[Big Cholla]

Thanks guys, I really do appreciate your input and the education.

It sounds to me like I may just get used to the scratch (I'll call it character for now) until I find a qualified individual to bead blast it.

I never thought of Matte Stainless being so tough to fix, or to at least make prettier, but I do understand now after reading and thinking more about it - how it became matte in the first place.

It is not hard to fix. You seemed to have disregarded the only correct answer given...........Use new fresh sandpaper of the correct grit, a very small ball peen hammer with a new hammer face (very important) and place the frame in a padded vise. Gently tap the backside of the sandpaper (probably 400 grit, but have some 300 and some 600 available) while holding it in place. Do a little and check your work. Keep using new surface area of the sandpaper. Wipe off the surface of the metal with a dry cloth between applications. You will gradually restore the matt finish to the point only you will know there is anything but factory finish on your frame. I have done this job many times. It shouldn't take you more than 30 minutes the first time you do it. Half that time with practice. DO NOT rub the scarred area with any abrasives. ........... Big Cholla

 

[KAC]

Please don't use steel wool on stainless. Particles of the wool will imbed in the stainless, providing a catalyst for rust. Once started, this rust will be hard to stop.

 

[flintsghost]

Take the gun apart completely down to the last part. Get some Navel Jelly that is used as a rust remover from steel. It contains nitric acid, but it uses water to stop the action of the jelly. Use a Q tip to dab it on the scratched portion. When it matts out, wash it off with cold water and then put a thick oil on it for about 24 hours. It should look a lot better. Nitric acid is what S&W uses in their acid bath on stainless when new.

 

[richarwi]

I recently used a slight variation of the method described by Big Cholla (#9). I successfully removed/hid 2 scratches on my matte stainless Sig 1911. Maybe I did something wrong, and I had never done this before, but I made little progress with the tapping using a small hammer. Then I cut out a small piece of soft wood about 1/2 x 1/2 x 3, laid 400 grit wet/dry on the scratch, and rubbed the wood block front to back over small portions of the scratch at a time. I checked carefully on the progress as Big Cholla mentioned and proceeded cautiously. It took some time, but I managed to hide both scratches to my satisfaction. Note carefully that the 400 grit was held in place on a scratch as the piece of wood rode across the sandpaper applying various degrees of pressure.