Flame cutting questions

[annasophia]

Sorry for the Ruger question here, but I have a Ruger Blackhawk in .357 and like to play around with moderately hot hand-loads and cast lead bullets. Probably 80% of my shooting is cast lead from Bumble-bee and Laser-cast in .38 spl brass. I bought the gun used in about 90% condition, so it was fairly well used before I got it. It's quite accurate and probably about average on how tight it is with cylinder lock-up. The timing is still good from what I can tell. I've noticed some flame cutting on the top strap of the frame just above the barrel/cylinder gap. It's quite minor at this point (just a little indented line or divot) but I was wondering if it's anything to worry about. I didn't notice if I caused this or if it was already that way when I bought it second-hand. Do they tend to get worse with any particular type of load (ie, fairly hot loads, or lead vs. jacketed bullets, or particular powders etc.)? Also, does this problem tend to happen more with blued steel or stainless steel revolvers?

 

[Tripwire229]

It tends to happen more with slower powders and lighter bullets, lead vs jacketed doesn't matter. It is maximized when the powder is still burning hot and the back of the bullet is just entering the forcing cone blocking it and creating the disc shaped jet of hot gas. Using 158 grain bullets should cut it down but all revolvers flame cut to some degree.

 

[71firebird400]

It won't be an issue on the Ruger, but like Tripwire said it's typically from pushing light bullets very fast! I've heard that flame cutting will reach a certain point and then stop, but I can't vouch for that. Regardless I would suggest doing everything you can to cut through the strap because destroying a Ruger Blackhawk would put you in a very, very elite club and bring you instant internet stardom. (In other words, I doubt you could ever hurt the thing )

 

[MichiganScott]

Flame cutting is supposedly self limiting. I have a Model 28 with tens of thousands of rounds down the barrel. It will outlast me.

 

[Titegroups]

If you cut it in half you can always buy another.

 

[44wheelman]

After 200 rounds of max loads of W296 with jacketed 215gr bullets, my brand new 657 exhibited a pretty good flame cut (like .015 to .020" deep.) I now use 2400 (& H4227 with my larger calibers) and haven't noticed any more flame cutting. Maybe it had nothing to do with the powder & the flame cutting just reached it's limit.

 

[fyimo]

Even a 22LR revover can flame cut as my Grandson has a 17-3 that has fairly deep flame cutting on it and we bought it that way. The gun is very accurate so we pay it no attentio and just keep shooting it.

 

[STCM(SW)]

H110 & WW296 are know to do this with magnum loads, even after just a few cylinders of fireing.

This from a friend of mine:

"I bought my old 1972 M28-2 back a few years ago and knew it hadn't ever had H110/W296 used in it. I had made a picture of the top strap as it was when I used it and one after 5 shots of H110. Here's the comparison, before:

After:

He uses only 2400 for magnum loads now.

 

[Titegroups]

I think part of the problem may be rapid firing not allowing the heat to dissipate at the surface between shots. Combine that with a hot burning powder you basically have a torch.

 

[Pisgah]

I don't have the gun in hand, so I cannot say for sure -- but I would bet there is zero flame cutting in that photo. I have seen the same thing on literally hundreds of revolvers and without exception it has turned out to be a deposit of vaporized lead and powder residue -- looks like a cut, feels like a cut, but with assiduous cleaning, sometimes using a wooden or copper scraper, it disappears. Flame cutting exists, but it is really quite rare.

BTW, my 28 has had hundreds of H110/W296 loads through it -- no trace of cutting.

 

[M3Stuart]

Once I clean the lead buildup off of mine, I've never noticed any actual indentation into the gun. Maybe some discoloration, but never any indentation.

 

[Drail]

It will reach a certain depth and stop. The reason is the shape of the cut in the metal will deflect the gases out to the sides instead impacting straight on. Don't worry about it. It's completely normal. You should however keep a close eye on the forcing cone. Light bullet loads with certain powders will erode the forcing cone and do more damage than the top strap receives. Don't ask me how I know. I ruined a nice Ruger by shooting heavy charges of Blue Dot with 125 gr. bullets. That load came straight out of the Speer No 11 manual. It's has been removed from the current manual.

 

[hoppes-no9]

I don't have the gun in hand, so I cannot say for sure -- but I would bet there is zero flame cutting in that photo.

Agree 100%. I do not believe 5 shots of even the hottest H110 loads could produce visible flame cutting.