Frog Lube and a M&P

S&WForty said:
Should a new user get the FL solvent or just use isopropyl alcohol?
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I spoke to FL when I bought mine and they said any degreaser will work. They recommended Simple Green cleaner. Has worked well for me.

The other day my RO asked what the hell I was doing sniffing my gun. Yes, it was safety checked, empty, and pointing down range. It's weird to smell mint on a gun but the cleanup is FAST. I just put a little liquid FL on a boresnake, passed it through the barrel, and wiped down the gun. Done!
 
Your gun will smell like it pulled a hamstring for a week or more, but people swear by the stuff. I've seen test rip it up, but I recently switched to find out how I like it. Currently have it on my 357c, but can't find any ammo to test it, or the gun.
 
Lol genetic, yeah you dont have to get their solvent, and like has been said the stuff will eat any grease u dont get.

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Thanks for the feedback Maddmax and Zotzer. I will go ahead and treat the 7 lube points at every cleaning, even with full treatment of my MP9C… can't hurt. Glad that I purchased both the FL paste and liquid versions; can see the utility of both.

Good to read all the posts about initial degreasing. I opted not to get the FL solvent, as I figured FL is a CLP product and would be redundant. I have gun cleaning solvent, but would much rather use Simple Green or Dawn as degreaser to ensure I'm removing all petrochemicals & stuff. Will rinse and use air compressor to blow out my pistol (as Robert W commented).
 
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I started using FL about 2 month ago and treated all my handguns with it (made the heat treatment 3 times just in case) All I can say is Wow. This thing works on Polymer, Aluminum and Stainless Steel frames. More than 1000 rounds thru all my handguns and they look and feel great. After a range trip you only have to wipe with a cloth, put a bit on the rails and other friction parts and the gun is good to go.
 
After reading all the great reports, I had to place an order for some FL!
 
I just switched this week, I hope to head to the range next week. I have done my Sig230, M&P Shield 9mm, Glock 30, Berretta 92....long guns next.
Basically everything in this thread is exactly how I understand it. You tube is awesome for how to vids. Once going with FL do not clean or use anything else as the FL will eat normal petroleum products away.
If you think about how it works it makes perfect sense.
 
I've really enjoyed reading thru this thread.. I will have three new firearms shortly (M&P 9mm FS, M&P 9mm Shield, and a Beretta PX4 Storm .40 FS) and plan on doing all three with the Simple Green cleaning and then the FrogLube paste method with heat. Since I am new to firearms, I know one important step is cleaning the factory grease out of them, from what others have said, Simple Green works well, is compressed air needed or just a good wipe down with paper towels and rags okay? I would think that the heating with hairdryer process will dry up any additional leftover Simple Green..

Also, seeing as I will be doing three, will it be better to get the 8oz kits versus the 4oz kits?

Thanks for the replies..
 
CADMAN88 said:
I've really enjoyed reading thru this thread.. I will have three new firearms shortly (M&P 9mm FS, M&P 9mm Shield, and a Beretta PX4 Storm .40 FS) and plan on doing all three with the Simple Green cleaning and then the FrogLube paste method with heat. Since I am new to firearms, I know one important step is cleaning the factory grease out of them, from what others have said, Simple Green works well, is compressed air needed or just a good wipe down with paper towels and rags okay? I would think that the heating with hairdryer process will dry up any additional leftover Simple Green..

Also, seeing as I will be doing three, will it be better to get the 8oz kits versus the 4oz kits?

Thanks for the replies..
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I'd get the 8oz but it'll last a long time. Just wipe down after Simple Green. The heat will dry off the rest.
 
My FrogLube came in and I cleaned my guns with it. It does have a winterfresh smell that does go away. The guns look great and everything slides nicely. I haven't shot with them yet but I'm sure it'll go well.
 
I have used Frog Lube exclusively on my recently purchased M&P 40 VTAC. With over 500 trouble-free rounds through it, I now swear by Frog Lube. I purchased a kit with the wax and the liquid; both forms have their benefits. I believe the wax will last longer when brushing it on for the initial "seasoning" of the weapon; the liquid works well for the bore and the trigger mechanism and the sear area. I also use the liquid to drop on the seven areas identified in the owners manual. The side benefit is the great smell and the ability to clean weapons indoors without the need to ventilate the fumes from typical gun cleaning products.

For two excellent videos on the use of Frog Lube for the initial seasoning as well as the subsequent routine cleanings, search for the Crucible Arms channel on You Tube.
 
Are there any truly long term tests proving the lubrication performance?
That is the only concern holding me back. All I have seen online regarding lubrication is anecdotal.

My #1 reason to switch is to get away from the vapors of traditional products, but I'll stick with that before giving up proven petroleum lubrication.
 
S&WForty said:
Are there any truly long term tests proving the lubrication performance?
That is the only concern holding me back. All I have seen online regarding lubrication is anecdotal.

My #1 reason to switch is to get away from the vapors of traditional products, but I'll stick with that before giving up proven petroleum lubrication.
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OK, so how "long term" does it need to be? There's plenty of evidence that isn't just anecdotal.

I've used Frog Lube exclusively on my M&P .45 since new. I now have 1,789 rounds through it. Is that enough?

My Ed Brown 1911 now has 6,030 rounds through it. I've been using Frog Lube on it for the last 2K or so rounds. Is that long enough? Further, you can read about my inadvertent torture test on the 1911 here: A 1911 Won't work if dirty - 1911Forum The gun had been lubricated with Frog Lube prior to that experience. Is that anti-anecdotal enough?
 
I use it on all my semi auto guns,and as advertized clean up is much easier now.

Did a class two weeks ago 600 rounds,no issues with my M&P 9mm.
 
I just got some not too long ago. Used a heat gun I use at work. So much better than having my room smell like hoppes for weeks
 
In addition to using it on my personal weapons, my buddies who are Scout Snipers who use it on their rifles as well.
 
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I haven't even used the paste, I bought their wipes that have it in them.
I use the their oil on the 7 points, though getting down into the sear could use a longer tip on the bottle.
I bought a couple of the 1 oz bottles for to make a small range kit then refill them with the larger when they get low.
 
Seal 1 CLP plus. Anyone try this and frog lube? What one is better. I only used the Seal 1 and I found it to be great slickest lube I used so far. great for actions, slide rails anything you want to glide. I found it to make a real difference. They say it treats the steel and when heated it goes right into the steel.. I have the gel, easier to work with.. I did one heat test on it.. I used stainless steel lightly coated it with Seal 1 and put it on a wood stove that leveled off at 500degs. at that temp it turned the steel black and was not cleanable.. I'm not saying that's bad but I would not use it on a weapon that could run hot enough to cook of a round in the chamber like a AR or at least not in the barrel or chamber.. This is strictly my opinion on it with a very redneck test.. If I get some frog lube I try the same test for the heck of it.. So who has tried both? What's you opinion? George
 
I'm still on the fence with Frog Lube, I have two M&P pistols. A .40 compact that I have used Hornedy One Shot on exclusively, and my Shield, that I have used Frog lube on exclusively. Both show the same amount of wear on them. Both have about the same amount of rounds through them. One makes me smell like an old man with an arthritic hip and the other has no smell at all. Both guns have about the same amount of powder buildup after a couple hundred rounds though them. The gun using the Hornedy is much easier to clean, you don't have to use a heat gun and wait for it to cool to finish the job, so one less step for the One Shot. But the Frog Lube is an eviromentally friendy product. Both are pretty good products. But I will not side with either product at this time, due to the fact that enough testing has not been completed.
 
I am currently using it on a half dozen revolvers and pistols. So far it has worked exactly as advertised. Gun cleanup is much easier and the lack of oil/grease stains is an added bonus. I have noticed when I am doing a firearm for the first time, I start with a gun that I think is already clean using my normal products. Then I degrease the gun using "Gunscrubber". Warm the gun with a heat gun, and brush on the paste. I use the liquid on a patch and run it down the bore. Let it sit under a 100 watt light bulb for an hour. Interestingly, when I run a dry patch down the bore to remove any residue from application, I still get a dirty patch. Whatever this stuff is made of, it gets the bore cleaner than anything I have yet to discover.
 
If all you have is the paste, how do you clean the barrel? For regular maintenance, does the gun have to be heated up every time you use FL? After the initial alcohol strip, heat and application, how often does the gun have to be treated this way, if ever? There are many videos on the first application of FL, but I have not seen any on routine clean and lube.
 
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had2 said:
There are many videos on the first application of FL, but I have not seen any on routine clean and lube.
Click to expand...

The Crucible Arms channel on You Tube has two separate videos; one on the initial treatment and one the routine cleaning. Both are very well done and worth a watch.
 
Apparently Seal 1 and FrogLube are very similar, if not identical products (except for color and scent). Rand CLP is a new product that is liquid only, bonds with the metal, does not require heating and is biodegradable. I am running FL on a couple of my guns, but also picked up some Rand to compare. I am hearing very good things about Rand.
 
I use the Seal 1 but I think Frog lube said that 2 to 3 treatments and shooting cycles for full protection and full advantage of it as far as protection and cleaning ease.. But I'm not 100% sure.. George
 
Yes Seal 1 does have that Minty Ben-gay smell to it.. I'll have to pick up some of that Rand CLP.. I got guns for over 35 years that have done just fine in every way with good old Hoppe's bore solvent and Hoppe's gun oil. No rust wear is fine I'm Happy in every way. I'm I crazy to be trying all the new products against things i know work?George
 
Rastoff said:
There will never be a consensus among gun owners. Especially when it comes to lubricants.

Having said that, I like Frog Lube. I use it exclusively on my handguns. I have used nothing but Frog Lube on my M&P 45 and have had no issues with it. I don't put any on the sear.
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Rastoff,
Why don't you use Frog lube on your sear? I use Seal 1 a very similar product and that's where I find it to shine. All types of lock works sear and hammer on guns with one. seem to really slick it up making the trigger noticeably better upon the first use.. It realy cleaned up my M&P FS .45's trigger to the point of liking it now. I use it on sear and trigger bar also top of firing pin plunger! George
 
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