I'd get the 8oz but it'll last a long time. Just wipe down after Simple Green. The heat will dry off the rest.
Frog Lube and a M&P
- Thread starter CJ_mp40c
- Start date
I'd get the 8oz but it'll last a long time. Just wipe down after Simple Green. The heat will dry off the rest.
My FrogLube came in and I cleaned my guns with it. It does have a winterfresh smell that does go away. The guns look great and everything slides nicely. I haven't shot with them yet but I'm sure it'll go well.
I have used Frog Lube exclusively on my recently purchased M&P 40 VTAC. With over 500 trouble-free rounds through it, I now swear by Frog Lube. I purchased a kit with the wax and the liquid; both forms have their benefits. I believe the wax will last longer when brushing it on for the initial "seasoning" of the weapon; the liquid works well for the bore and the trigger mechanism and the sear area. I also use the liquid to drop on the seven areas identified in the owners manual. The side benefit is the great smell and the ability to clean weapons indoors without the need to ventilate the fumes from typical gun cleaning products.
For two excellent videos on the use of Frog Lube for the initial seasoning as well as the subsequent routine cleanings, search for the Crucible Arms channel on You Tube.
For two excellent videos on the use of Frog Lube for the initial seasoning as well as the subsequent routine cleanings, search for the Crucible Arms channel on You Tube.
Are there any truly long term tests proving the lubrication performance?
That is the only concern holding me back. All I have seen online regarding lubrication is anecdotal.
My #1 reason to switch is to get away from the vapors of traditional products, but I'll stick with that before giving up proven petroleum lubrication.
That is the only concern holding me back. All I have seen online regarding lubrication is anecdotal.
My #1 reason to switch is to get away from the vapors of traditional products, but I'll stick with that before giving up proven petroleum lubrication.
Rastoff
US Veteran
OK, so how "long term" does it need to be? There's plenty of evidence that isn't just anecdotal.
I've used Frog Lube exclusively on my M&P .45 since new. I now have 1,789 rounds through it. Is that enough?
My Ed Brown 1911 now has 6,030 rounds through it. I've been using Frog Lube on it for the last 2K or so rounds. Is that long enough? Further, you can read about my inadvertent torture test on the 1911 here: A 1911 Won't work if dirty - 1911Forum The gun had been lubricated with Frog Lube prior to that experience. Is that anti-anecdotal enough?
GrumpyBear
Member
I use it on all my semi auto guns,and as advertized clean up is much easier now.
Did a class two weeks ago 600 rounds,no issues with my M&P 9mm.
Did a class two weeks ago 600 rounds,no issues with my M&P 9mm.
EugeneNine
Member
I haven't even used the paste, I bought their wipes that have it in them.
I use the their oil on the 7 points, though getting down into the sear could use a longer tip on the bottle.
I bought a couple of the 1 oz bottles for to make a small range kit then refill them with the larger when they get low.
I use the their oil on the 7 points, though getting down into the sear could use a longer tip on the bottle.
I bought a couple of the 1 oz bottles for to make a small range kit then refill them with the larger when they get low.
George9
Member
Seal 1 CLP plus. Anyone try this and frog lube? What one is better. I only used the Seal 1 and I found it to be great slickest lube I used so far. great for actions, slide rails anything you want to glide. I found it to make a real difference. They say it treats the steel and when heated it goes right into the steel.. I have the gel, easier to work with.. I did one heat test on it.. I used stainless steel lightly coated it with Seal 1 and put it on a wood stove that leveled off at 500degs. at that temp it turned the steel black and was not cleanable.. I'm not saying that's bad but I would not use it on a weapon that could run hot enough to cook of a round in the chamber like a AR or at least not in the barrel or chamber.. This is strictly my opinion on it with a very redneck test.. If I get some frog lube I try the same test for the heck of it.. So who has tried both? What's you opinion? George
I'm still on the fence with Frog Lube, I have two M&P pistols. A .40 compact that I have used Hornedy One Shot on exclusively, and my Shield, that I have used Frog lube on exclusively. Both show the same amount of wear on them. Both have about the same amount of rounds through them. One makes me smell like an old man with an arthritic hip and the other has no smell at all. Both guns have about the same amount of powder buildup after a couple hundred rounds though them. The gun using the Hornedy is much easier to clean, you don't have to use a heat gun and wait for it to cool to finish the job, so one less step for the One Shot. But the Frog Lube is an eviromentally friendy product. Both are pretty good products. But I will not side with either product at this time, due to the fact that enough testing has not been completed.
Rastoff
US Veteran
You don't have to heat the gun every time. Only on the first application.
I am currently using it on a half dozen revolvers and pistols. So far it has worked exactly as advertised. Gun cleanup is much easier and the lack of oil/grease stains is an added bonus. I have noticed when I am doing a firearm for the first time, I start with a gun that I think is already clean using my normal products. Then I degrease the gun using "Gunscrubber". Warm the gun with a heat gun, and brush on the paste. I use the liquid on a patch and run it down the bore. Let it sit under a 100 watt light bulb for an hour. Interestingly, when I run a dry patch down the bore to remove any residue from application, I still get a dirty patch. Whatever this stuff is made of, it gets the bore cleaner than anything I have yet to discover.
If all you have is the paste, how do you clean the barrel? For regular maintenance, does the gun have to be heated up every time you use FL? After the initial alcohol strip, heat and application, how often does the gun have to be treated this way, if ever? There are many videos on the first application of FL, but I have not seen any on routine clean and lube.
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The Crucible Arms channel on You Tube has two separate videos; one on the initial treatment and one the routine cleaning. Both are very well done and worth a watch.
Apparently Seal 1 and FrogLube are very similar, if not identical products (except for color and scent). Rand CLP is a new product that is liquid only, bonds with the metal, does not require heating and is biodegradable. I am running FL on a couple of my guns, but also picked up some Rand to compare. I am hearing very good things about Rand.
George9
Member
I use the Seal 1 but I think Frog lube said that 2 to 3 treatments and shooting cycles for full protection and full advantage of it as far as protection and cleaning ease.. But I'm not 100% sure.. George
George9
Member
Yes Seal 1 does have that Minty Ben-gay smell to it.. I'll have to pick up some of that Rand CLP.. I got guns for over 35 years that have done just fine in every way with good old Hoppe's bore solvent and Hoppe's gun oil. No rust wear is fine I'm Happy in every way. I'm I crazy to be trying all the new products against things i know work?George
George9
Member
Rastoff,
Why don't you use Frog lube on your sear? I use Seal 1 a very similar product and that's where I find it to shine. All types of lock works sear and hammer on guns with one. seem to really slick it up making the trigger noticeably better upon the first use.. It realy cleaned up my M&P FS .45's trigger to the point of liking it now. I use it on sear and trigger bar also top of firing pin plunger! George
Rastoff
US Veteran
Trigger sears don't need any lube. Mine is at 4.5lbs. That's perfect for me.
