Frog Lube opinions

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captcook

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Just cleaned and treated my pistols with frog lube. Anybody else tried this product and if so what is your opinion ? The science of it makes sense but being my first time using it I just wanted to get some feedback.
Thanks
 
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I have been using it on my handguns for almost a year. Seems to work well. It does require a bit of initial "set up" but then works great. Be sure to follow the instructions and heat the metal before applying the paste. After doing this 3 times, I have not applied the paste at all since and just use the green liquid. The barrel cleans easily and quickly. I have cleaned some of my handguns a bunch of times since the first initial application and so far no signs of needing to do the paste again yet. I plan to reapply the initial paste procedure about once per year. Other handguns have not been used much since first application so I can't comment on them but I have 3 or 4 that have been cleaned a lot.
I have not used it on my AR-15s or AK 47 yet but I may at some point.
 
I have FrogLube on the internals of the 642-1. It works great. My revolver is just as smooth as when I used a little conventional lubricant.

People who have experienced difficulties generally left a visible layer of FrogLube on the surfaces they lubricated and had the excess inhibit the movement of their gun's action at some point, usually in very low temperatures.

Used on external surfaces, like cylinders and the frame near the forcing cone, even if you "wipe it all off" there may be enough to create a little black gunk when you fire the revolver. I believe the manufacturer even cautions you about this phenomenon. If you wipe the black gunk off while the gun is still hot, no worries!

My cylinder is titanium, intended for a 340PD. Either the coating S&W uses or the metal itself seems to have prevented me from enjoying the "effortless carbon deposit cleaning" that some other people report with FrogLube. Oh, well.

I recently bought a two ounce container of FireClean, for about the same cost as the four ounce container of FrogLube paste that I chose. I have only used it on the cylinder and for only one shooting session, so far. It made carbon removal after shooting a little easier that FrogLube did for me.

Neither is quite as magic as I would like, but the FireClean comes closer for me and it is pretty much impossible to over apply because it resembles Mobile1 synthetic oil in appearance and does not require a heat lamp. I am also pleased that it is completely odorless.

Both manufactures recommend using as little of their product as possible for best results. Tiny amounts of FireClean on the cylinder yoke spindle provide very smooth operation, for me.

As always, YMMV.
 
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I bought a Sig 220 Elite that had been treated with FrogLube. Felt slick as snot on a doorknob. Jams and failure to fires were common. Spent several hours in a detailed strip and cleaning noting that the pins were all hard to remove and left a waxy residue around the holes when the pin finally came out. Firing pin and spring were gummed with the same waxy residue.
Long story short after a thorough striping and proper lube with oil and grease as required the pistol was put back together and has functioned PERFECTLY since. NO parts were replaced.
My opinion: Anything that can cause misfires if applied improperly has no place on any of my guns and I would never buy or use it.
Chip King
 
I have used FL on all my M&Ps and have not had any problems. Great stuff when used as directed.
 
My LGS said to just "Gom it on my gun" I think he may have misinformed me of course I did not "gom" it on and put on a light coat on hot parts. But I will give it a chance they have had one treatment and I will do two more before I make my decision. My LGS said "bring it in and and we will do the first treatment for you" I had my M&P 9 with me but I decided against letting him touch it I think I made the right choice.
 
I use FL on all my guns, I shoot around 1200 rounds per week. No failures. I think the people that have problems with it are putting too much on. I use the paste, brush it around and then remove as much as I can find. Every time I see a picture with streaks of grease on the slide or drops of oil on the barrel it makes me cringe. The picture below is at around 35K rounds on one of mine.
 

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I have used it for over a year on all my poly semi autos and every steel revolver I own. I do use as little as possible, and have not yet had any any issues other than it takes me half the time to clean my guns that it did when I used solvents and oils.
 
I got some to test to see if it lived up to all the hype, it worked OK for me, nothing special though. It seems to me like a very expensive version of T/C Bore Butter, and does not remove carbon fouling as well as the home brew Ed's Red. For me the bottom line is I guess it works, But I will continue to use bore butter on my Black Powder arms and ER on my smokeless cartridge guns.
 
wingnuut said:
if any gets in the stricker channel your in trouble it hardens up , why use something you have to worry about
Click to expand...

If ANYTHING gets in there you are in trouble! The stiker channel should ALWAYS be clean & dry & free of ANY cleaners or lubricants.



I have been using frog lube for a few years now on both my f/s 9 & my 9c & I gotta say its without a doubt the BEST product I have ever used!!
 
I have used it since January, 2014 on my Shield 9mm and 2 H & K'S and am very satisfied with it. As said, best if you make sure to remove all excess. Initial application with heating the parts is time consuming but worth it.
 
I am continuing to use Breakfree CLP in general, with the somewhat thicker Breakfree LP on slides and barrels. I am using W25B, which is recommended by Sig, on my SP2022 as a sort of long term experiment. The kit came with oil, grease, and cleaner.

In the past I tried lubriplate but ended up with dried, hardened goop on key parts. Probably would work fine if applied right before use and removed right after use; that's too much work for me.

I am sold on the idea of grease of some sort on slide rails and barrels, with oil on everything else -- I am trying two separate "systems" (one petroleum based and one not) and am enjoying good results with both. How does that answer the OPs question on Frog Lube? 1. I believe the comments on following instructions. 2. Breakfree CLP and LP are the "standard" and make a good base for comparison of results. Good luck with the FL.
 
Kanewpadle said:
Been using Tetragun for over ten years. It's all I need.
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Probably so, sir!

Some of us more gullible folks, that would include me, feel a need to waste $14.95 on the latest wonder snake oil from time to time, just because we can.

Some have worked our remarkably well. WeaponShield comes to mind in that category.

But, most are a bit like the last two I tried FrogLube and FireClean. They offer amazing promises but don't quite meet my resulting expectations.

Fortunately, I still have a healthy supply of the tried and true products. My various firearms seem to like that.

Still, it is cheap entertainment . . . so, what's next? ;)
 
Been using it on my handguns for about a year and no issues. Will be switching the long guns to it when the large bottle of hoppes I bought before I found Frog lube runs out.
There have been reports claiming that frog lube has resulted in stuck firing pins but not a single one that I have read gives any details regarding now it was applied or how "wet" the gun was left after treatment.
I will likely redo the initial treatment process on the handguns at some point this summer as routine maintenance especially now that I have a more effective heating method than when I first used it.
 
TucsonMTB said:
Probably so, sir!

Some of us more gullible folks, that would include me, feel a need to waste $14.95 on the latest wonder snake oil from time to time, just because we can.

Some have worked our remarkably well. WeaponShield comes to mind in that category.

But, most are a bit like the last two I tried FrogLube and FireClean. They offer amazing promises but don't quite meet my resulting expectations.

Fortunately, I still have a healthy supply of the tried and true products. My various firearms seem to like that.

Still, it is cheap entertainment . . . so, what's next? ;)
Click to expand...

Waste? I don't think so. ;)

A good lube/cleaner is an investment.:eek:

If you really want to be cheap, buy a big jug of Mobil One. It works good too!!;):o Last ya a lifetime.
 
I have used FL for the past year on all 3 of my M&P's and my revolver. Love the stuff. Applied correctly and it is a breeze to clean with no jams or "gunking" up.
 
Frog Lube probably works about as good as a dozen other lubricants. They also can scientifically prove that they work. For me, Ballistol has been proven to work for over 100 years, is earth friendly and safe to drink if you want. Mobile One mixed with some ATF works great and is much cheaper than Frog Lube. If someone wants to use it, more power to him. Personally I think it is a solution looking for need.
 
When I bought into frog lube, I went all out with the paste, liquid, and spray bottle. I have since switched back to mobile 1 full synthetic engine oil in bore of my heavier use guns such as my AR and my M&Ps. The oil just seems like it makes the bore easier to clean, especially since most of what I shoot is cast bullets.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2
 
I started using Frog Lube when we first bought handguns 3-4 months ago. I'm sure most of the gun-specific cleaners/lubes do a fine job. Certain aspects of Frog Lube happened to appeal to me, the non-toxic nature being right at the top of the list.

Many threads mention the expense of Frog Lube and I don't doubt that it's more expensive than other lubes, but if you calculate the cost/round or cost/ month, etc., any treatment cost would be in the noise.

Once you do the initial treatment with Frog Lube the amount used per cleaning thereafter is minuscule: a few squirts down the barrel to loosen any residue, wipe down and a tiny dab of paste at each of the normal lube points. I might be spending a few dollars each time I clean our three handguns.
 
rdtompki said:
I started using Frog Lube when we first bought handguns 3-4 months ago. I'm sure most of the gun-specific cleaners/lubes do a fine job. Certain aspects of Frog Lube happened to appeal to me, the non-toxic nature being right at the top of the list.

Many threads mention the expense of Frog Lube and I don't doubt that it's more expensive than other lubes, but if you calculate the cost/round or cost/ month, etc., any treatment cost would be in the noise.

Once you do the initial treatment with Frog Lube the amount used per cleaning thereafter is minuscule: a few squirts down the barrel to loosen any residue, wipe down and a tiny dab of paste at each of the normal lube points. I might be spending a few dollars each time I clean our three handguns.
Click to expand...

Good point about the paste at the lube points. That had not occurred to me.
 
Anything that is complicated to apply, and/or can cause problems with a firearm if not applied just so, just should not be used.
My lifetime supply for lube is 2 1 quart cans; one of Mobil 1 lithium grease (slide rails and such) and one of Mobil 1 synthetic motor oil for things that turn. I also have a big can of Break Free, and assorted cleaning stuff. I use hypos of various sizes to apply both grease and oil, those plus the ever useful silicon cloth completes the necessaries of gun servicing. For really cold conditions the Break Free is usually the answer, but the M1 grease is quite good in the cold.
 
I have been using frog lube for a few years now and it works good for me.
 
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