Galloway Precision Trigger Kits

jpendergrass1...Thank you for your comments. And thanks to Apex for being candid. With my current 5.75, I have no beef with Apex's stated numbers. I'm waiting to see if anyone out there is able to achieve Galloway's stated numbers or even close to it. It's awfully quiet out there re folks chiming in with their pull numbers. If the numbers don't come close to the "3.5 to 4.5", then someone needs to change their product advertising. Just like Apex is a good company, many people have been happy with Galloway and the products they provide.
 
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I just purchased another little handgun that I won't mention the name of since this is a Smith and Wesson site, and it has a hammer and shoots double or single action. Single action is so smooth, and it is in the 3.5 to 4.5 range.

Is that a SAR B6 Compact, by any chance? It's OK to discuss other guns here!
 
I have two SD40VE both with Apex kits installed. Didn't measure the trigger press beforehand. Using a Lyman Digital Trigger Pull Scale, I got the following (average of 5 presses):

SD40VE #1 - 6 lbs 8 oz
SD40VE #2 - 6 lbs 6 oz.
 
modern pistols with a firing pin block safety do not have the issue of discharging when dropped. That said, unless your internals are broken, or your finger (or other object snags it) is on the trigger, it won't fire.


Fixed it for ya
 
I installed a Galloway spring kit in my sd40ve. I followed the video on there site for the install, which I found was not to hard to complete. The trigger pull I had before the kit was 7.9lbs. After the Galloway trigger kit it was lowered to 5.2lbs. Took it out to the range and am very happy with the pull. Its still heavyer than my m&p shield but way better than before. For 30$ and a three day waiting for it to arrive time, it was worthwhile. I recommend Galloway.
 
Austin...Glad to see that you got a 5.2. I'm still waiting for someone to post that has the advertised "3.5 to 4" numbers.
 
I have the older SW40F. The sear block has only 1 spring in there. Must have come from the factory that way as the pins are staked. How do i go about getting them out without hurting the block.
 
sorry for reaping an old thread but has anyone used the apex kit and installed the galloway sear spring, they are selling it seprately now for $5 and i was thinking it might be worth it. being me pull is at 4lbs 12-14oz now i could onld only guess it would go around low 4's-high 3s range wich i would love. this is my range gun, not my EDC so no worries and im fairly competent with mechanics.
also any good/bad comments on their SS rod and springs? i was going to get the 20lbs (sd9VE) to outfit mine, as i think it would look better and match tge upcoming mag extensions from apex.
 
Coming a little late to this party, but wanted to chime in anyway. I purchased 2 Galloway trigger kits just to play with. Neither kit reduced trigger pull weight and neither improved the trigger in any way. I used different SD's had a buddy install a kit in his just to make sure I didn't do something wrong, etc., etc. The Galloway kit was essentially like replacing factory OEM parts with factory OEM parts. I wrote Galloway about the issue and they were pretty glib about it. Then I started playing and began combining the Galloway kit and the Apex kit to see what kind of franken-kit I could put together. When it was all said and done the best combination (hands down) was to put the Galloway springs back in their plastic bag and just use the Apex kit. IMO Galloway dropped the ball on this kit and really should pull them from their site. Advertising 5lbs when it cannot produce anything better than 7.5+ lbs is false advertising. They did offer to give me my money back, so I appreciate that.
 
I forgot to mention (in all fairness) that I also purchased Galloway's extended take down levers and really like them. Just enough width to allow me to get a good grip. They don't seem to be quite as well finished as the extended levers I have purchased for my Glocks (Brownells & Lone Wolf), but they works just as well. A nice addition for people with large hands (or small hands).
 
Is that Galloway sear spring by itself a good match with the Apex spring kit?

Also my Apex spring kit came with a trigger spring that had felt padding in it just like the factory spring trigger. The Apex tutorial video showed that their trigger spring did NOT have any felt in it which is why he filled it with lithium grease? Anyone care to shed light on this?
 
Is that Galloway sear spring by itself a good match with the Apex spring kit?

Also my Apex spring kit came with a trigger spring that had felt padding in it just like the factory spring trigger. The Apex tutorial video showed that their trigger spring did NOT have any felt in it which is why he filled it with lithium grease? Anyone care to shed light on this?

The Apex video has an overlay (or a comment, forgot which) that says they now use a felt insert.
 
Thanks for those replies. I'm glad I didn't just get a factory part from an aftermarket company. After the installation of both polymer trigger and spring kit. I'm happy. Even though I had to file the heck out of that trigger. The back of it looks real Mickey Mouse but it works. I'll make it look pretty later on. Still feels a bit spongy. Anyone know how to get rid of that?
 
Thanks for those replies. I'm glad I didn't just get a factory part from an aftermarket company. After the installation of both polymer trigger and spring kit. I'm happy. Even though I had to file the heck out of that trigger. The back of it looks real Mickey Mouse but it works. I'll make it look pretty later on. Still feels a bit spongy. Anyone know how to get rid of that?

when you slowly pull the trigger does the right side of the poly frame push outward ?

If it does (which most do) the trigger arm is pushing on it sideways, not straight back as it should.:(

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when you slowly pull the trigger does the right side of the poly frame push outward ?

If it does (which most do) the trigger arm is pushing on it sideways, not straight back as it should.:(

3

They all do that except for guns where the owner has bent the forward prong on the trigger bar inward to push the center instead of the edge of the striker blocker. That may affect the S&W warranty, don't know.

In my case I simply smoothed the outside of the trigger bar and put some grease between the bar and the frame. Solved the problem for me.

Keep in mind that there is a slight gap where the trigger bar pushes the sear and that can cause a sort of unusual feel at the beginning of trigger pull.
 
He asked if anyone knew how to get rid of the spongy feeling in the trigger.

Since the trigger bar actually bends outward (spongy feeling) as you said, you have to bend stuff a little.

The trigger bar should be thicker and not bend or push outward when you pull the trigger trying to make it's way around the striker block.

They should have made it where the prong does go over the center of the striker block to begin with instead of rubbing and pushing on the frame which adds to a crappier trigger.

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I polished the right side of the trigger bar and it is very smooth without the slide attached. The sponginess occurs when I dry fire with the gun fully assembled. I haven't tried applying any grease to the trigger bar.

Should I slight bend it? Sounds scary.
 
I polished the right side of the trigger bar and it is very smooth without the slide attached. The sponginess occurs when I dry fire with the gun fully assembled. I haven't tried applying any grease to the trigger bar.

Should I slight bend it? Sounds scary.

Pull the magazine out and look up into the slide. As you pull the trigger you will see the forward prong on the trigger bar push the striker blocker. It hits the blocker along one edge and is pushed towards the frame. S&W knows this and apparently doesn't consider it to be a problem.

Some folks bend that prong to align with the center of the blocker.

I don't bend mine because it would probably void the lifetime warranty. I just grease the side of the trigger bar instead.

Not sure what you mean by "spongy" so maybe you can describe it in more detail.

Remember that there is a slight gap where the rear of the trigger bar hits the sear system. You can observe that by pulling the trigger with the slide off. Is that what you are feeling?
 
Pull the magazine out and look up into the slide. As you pull the trigger you will see the forward prong on the trigger bar push the striker blocker. It hits the blocker along one edge and is pushed towards the frame. S&W knows this and apparently doesn't consider it to be a problem.

Some folks bend that prong to align with the center of the blocker.

I don't bend mine because it would probably void the lifetime warranty. I just grease the side of the trigger bar instead.

Not sure what you mean by "spongy" so maybe you can describe it in more detail.

Remember that there is a slight gap where the rear of the trigger bar hits the sear system. You can observe that by pulling the trigger with the slide off. Is that what you are feeling?

It just feels gritty like plastic rubbing together with metal. I'm hoping this isn't something that can't be fixed. I've emailed pictures and video over to Apex Tactical so I'm eager to hear what they'll say tomorrow. I function checked it and everything is working fine.
 
The trigger pull is smooth when the slide isn't on. It's when the weapon is fully assembled that the trigger gets gritty.
 
The trigger pull is smooth when the slide isn't on. It's when the weapon is fully assembled that the trigger gets gritty.

When the slide is on the sear engages the lug on the striker and pulls it further back, same as any double-action gun.

Try this - with the slide off, turn it upside down and pull the striker back with your fingernail.

How does that feel? Gritty?
 
When the slide is on the sear engages the lug on the striker and pulls it further back, same as any double-action gun.

Try this - with the slide off, turn it upside down and pull the striker back with your fingernail.

How does that feel? Gritty?

YES! That is the grittiness I feel!
 
I figured it out. I had installed the striker spring stops backwards. That was causing the plastic on metal friction. I'm an idiot for doing that. There was a white sleeve that came out though that looks like it goes over the striker spring. However the Apex installation video doesn't show that ever. Anyone know what that white sleeve is or does??

Besides that, the trigger feels great. No friction. As smooth as butter. Thanks for the help!
 
I figured it out. I had installed the striker spring stops backwards. That was causing the plastic on metal friction. I'm an idiot for doing that. There was a white sleeve that came out though that looks like it goes over the striker spring. However the Apex installation video doesn't show that ever. Anyone know what that white sleeve is or does??

Besides that, the trigger feels great. No friction. As smooth as butter. Thanks for the help!

Are there perhaps two pieces of plastic sleeve, one not removed?

Look at parts 35 and 6 in this Glock schematic.

http://www.brownells.com/schematics/Glock-/Models-17-42-sid858.aspx#r5sid858
 
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I believe the nylon sleeve is there to prevent metal to metal friction from the striker sliding in the striker channel. The longer sleeve just slides over the spring end of the striker assembly. The other nylon bushing is locked on until you disassemble the striker.

L8R,
Matt
 
i dropped the galloway kit in a older sigma 40. it took the trigger pull down to 6 pounds. then after several boxes of ammo shot the trigger got better. with my old lyman trigger pull scale puts it at around 5 pounds. not bad for a gun that was over 8 pounds. thinking about doing a second galloway kit for my second sigma 40.
 
Galloway vs Apex

Apex actually used to get their springs from Galloway precision and spring are the same
 

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