Getting rid of the grit!

swbrian

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Rather than knocking off the sights (mine are tritium) and getting to the plunger for a polish job, has anyone tried simply leaking some flitz into the plunger cavity then pulling the trigger hundreds of times to polish the plunger/cavity, then thoroughly flushing the cavity out? Thanks.
 
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The only problem I see is that the Flitz wil be cycling thru more than just the striker block hole with all that dry firing. I would imagine it will also get to the striker block spring and more importantly the striker assembly and the polymer channel liner.

I doubt it would hurt anything but if you try it, I would recommend replacing the polymer channel liner and cleaning out the channel really well before re-installing.

Good luck, if it works let us know.

Dave
 
APEX Ultimate Striker Block.
Problem solved. ;)

I know you said you didn't want to remove your rear sight, but I'm a believer in APEX.
A little tip: Mark the sight with a pencil before removal. That makes it easier to zero when you reinstall it.
 
Yes! I pulled the trigger at least over 1000 times while firing, mostly IDPA matches. Over 500 rounds or more will improve the trigger. How many have you shot through yours? P.S. I didn't install my apex and TFO sights till after I shot over 1000 rounds.
 
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Forgive my ignorance but why does the rear sight have to be removed.

I don't own one yet.

3
 
Forgive my ignorance but why does the rear sight have to be removed.

I don't own one yet.

3

Because the striker block is actually under the rear sight blade.
You remove the sight & the striker block is right there.

Here is a pic of the striker block.
It is the circular plunger shown.
yqapube5.jpg


Here is a pic of the side profile with a mirror to show the striker block's location compared with the rear sight:
huvaguru.jpg



I hope that helps.
 
The gritty feeling comes from the shape of the striker block. I don't think your Flitz idea will accomplish anything. May cause a lot of heartache. Either get the Apex or live with it.
 
The gritty feeling comes from the shape of the striker block. I don't think your Flitz idea will accomplish anything. May cause a lot of heartache. Either get the Apex or live with it.

Not this ^^^^ :(

The striker block hole is where many have found the grittiness to be. It is very possible there is a burr inside the hole that can be polished out and that will smooth the trigger instantly. There is a fab video on this forum showing the process... I can't remember who posted it, but it is a really good video. ;)
 
Ok gotcha Hillbilly

I agree with fonejack the grittyness doesn't come frome frome the plunger.

I know on my SD40VE I had to reshape and polish my trigger bar to get a smooth feeling.

I also bent the bar a little off center to the plunger.

Don't know how the M&P actually works though.

3
 
The striker block hole is where many have found the grittiness to be. It is very possible there is a burr inside the hole that can be polished out and that will smooth the trigger instantly. There is a fab video on this forum showing the process... I can't remember who posted it, but it is a really good video. ;)

^^^^^^^^
This could be a possibility.


In my experience the striker block itself was the problem.
The Apex one is much smoother & more rounded than the OE one.
The M&P40 FS I had was very gritty until I installed the Apex striker block. After the install, it was smooth as glass.

S&W did a great job updating the trigger sear in the new M&P's. I wish they would update the striker block as well.
 
As the thread became captive to people who ignored 'my requirement' to NOT take off the rear sight to get at the plunger and hole...

- The plunger IS definitely part of the problem.
- However, you can smooth the grittiness out by simply polishing the TOP of the trigger bar which engages the plunger, so that as it engages, it smoothly does so, smoothing the take up considerably.

Then to get a decent trigger, install the APEX hard sear, and sear spring.
 
I spent 3 evenings with Flitz and I cycled the trigger with Flitz spread on the contact surfaces. I didn't dry fire but just cycled the trigger. I would estimate I went through several thousand cycles over 3 days. The trigger smoothed up and I ran it that way for awhile until I bought the Apex sear. I am happy with my trigger now. A shooting buddy did the same to his with good results as well. I think the biggest part of the "grit" was from the firing pin block.
 
Not this ^^^^ :(

The striker block hole is where many have found the grittiness to be. It is very possible there is a burr inside the hole that can be polished out and that will smooth the trigger instantly. There is a fab video on this forum showing the process... I can't remember who posted it, but it is a really good video. ;)

^^This^^

Disassembled mine the other night and polished the bore with a drill and a small sand paper roll. Fixed it right up.

robkarrob11 who is a member here has a video on you tube with the step by step procedure.
 
I understand not wanting to tap on the night sights, so if you do decide to remove the sights as has been suggested, whether to polish or put in Apex parts, you might want to search for sight pushers. Prices for them have gotten more reasonable.

Here's one from member epj. Current prices on page 2 post #70
http://smith-wessonforum.com/access...ew-mk-lll-xtreme-duty-model-m-p-xd-rated.html

Dave[/QUOTE
I purchased this sight pusher about 6 wks ago, fast delivery, instructions and i quickly and easily removed and replaced sights on 2- SD40VE's. The pusher is well made, well designed and reasonably priced. It should last many lifetimes. Be Safe,
 
@swbrian. Kind of sounds like you had the solution before posting the thread.

I've had my 9FS for a year and shot more than 2500 rounds thru it. Even combined with some reasonable number of dry fires, the trigger pull still wasn't smooth. I went the Apex route and couldn't be happier with the change.

I put my 10 8 sights on at the same time, so I had no fear of removing the stock sights.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
 
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