Grand Canyon Backpacking Report

esterroid

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Well, I made it to and across the Grand Canyon and survived! Had a really great time!

A fair number of forum members posted their canyon experiences or offered equipment/route suggestions.

My son and I originally thought we would simply start at the North Rim and take two or three days to walk the approximately 25 miles to the South Rim. As we planned our trek it stretched into six days and covered over 50 miles.

Since I'm about to have my 59th birthday I counted ounces in assembling my equipment. I blew the cobwebs out of wallet and sprang for a new pack – Osprey Atmos 65, a new sleeping bag – a REI #800 goose down wonder that weighs a little over a pound, and lightweight just about everything else. It wasn't cheap, but I got my total pack weight with two gallons of water down to 40 pounds! I had intended to lose ten pounds before starting but I only shaved seven pounds off my bulk. The heavy Nikon SLRs stayed at home and I used my wife's Nikon point and shoot. There were a couple of times I longed for a longer or wider lens, but every time I started to complain I remembered I didn't have to lug the stuff out of the canyon!

I also invested in a new pair of boots, New Balance Rainers. A couple of pounds lighter than my old Danners and they have a lug pattern that kept my feet on the trail. I bought a pair of carbon fiber walking sticks. I never used two sticks before and they proved to be worth their weight in gold!

With a little practice I could climb down without killing my knees! They were also great at climbing over obstructions. After 50 miles my back didn't hurt, the knees were fine, and I wasn't particularly sore. In fact, I felt ten years younger…

James and I started at the North Rim campground, walked the 15 miles to the Bright Angel Campground near the river. Temperatures were in the low 30s when we started and hit about 100 when we went through the Box. The next day we left about seven in the morning and hiked nine miles to Clear Creek. We probably should have left earlier as the temps on the Tonto Platform got a little toasty. On several occasions we sought the shade of a large rock and ate and rested. The last three miles to Clear Creek were particularly hot and we were lucky to find a shallow cave to rest in for an hour or so before we made the descent to the creek.

Clear Creek is a beautiful oasis in the middle of the canyon. We were the only people there and the solitude was wonderful.

When we left we climbed back up to the Tonto Platform in the evening and camped there. An absolutely incredible view at sunset. Walked back to Phantom Ranch and spent two days walking out of the canyon. It could easily be done in one, but we wanted to take a couple of day hikes out of Indian Garden.

All in all we really lucked out on the weather for early June. Only rarely broke 100 and we didn't have to resort to hiking at night. After getting caught in the heat on the hike over to Clear Creek we always started walking by 5:00 to avoid the real heat.

Had a wonderful time and told my son it was a great early birthday/father's day gift.

Thought you might enjoy a few photos.

At the north rim, still smelling fresh....

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My son on the Transept Trail

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Sunset from the North Rim

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North Kaibab Trail above Roaring Springs

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My son James didn't drink enough water on the way down and we had to stop for a bit after entering the Box

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made it to the Colorado

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bridge to the South Kaibab Trail

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Inner Canyon from the Clear Creek Trail

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In a cave getting ready to take a siesta prior to descending into clear creek

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view from the cave

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Clear Creek

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Hiking up the wide part of the trail out of clear creek. Around the corner it narrows to a 12" path carved into a 45 degree slope of kermit shale. On the walk down I thought if one slipped and really tumbled he would only get a bunch of bruises from the shale. what we didn't see from the top was the 100' vertical drop where the shale ended. needless to say the camera was put away on for the rest of the trip to the platform.

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On the Tonto Platform

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talk about a room with a view!

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panorama before sunset

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nothing like a rattler to catch your attention

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a ton of lizards too

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almost back to Phantom Ranch. we ran into a couple of fellows heading out to clear creek and we took photos of each other. They were leaving rather late in the day and I wonder how they coped with the heat..

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mule train on the Bright Angel Trail

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son sitting on the edge of Plateau Point. It's a long way down to the river from here..

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all cleaned up on the South Rim

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Wow! Beautiful pics! Thanks for sharing. Looks like you and your son had the experience of a lifetime!
 
I just drove from Oklahoma City to Coronado Island in San Diego with my 9 and 14 year old daughters, and they are going to stay with my sister-in-law for about a month on the island and see some of the sights in Southern Cal. I had frequent flyer miles but wanted to drive, so we could spend time together and they could see America the old fashion way. We drove straight and then spent the night in Flagstaff which is a beautiful city, and had a great evening out on the town. The next day we were going to drive to the Grand Canyon but my oldest daughter said...."why"?.... "It's just a big hole in the ground. Why don't they fill it in and build shopping malls"?
 
That's truly a trip of a lifetime.
I made a similar hike down to Phantom Ranch when I was 14 and it darn near killed me. Kudos to your for your determination and stamina.
 
What a great trip! Your son may have have given you an early birhtday/Father's Day gift, but you gave him a trip to relish and re-tell for a lifetime. So this trip will last thru his generation, another 50-60-70 years maybe? That's a lot of great mileage....
 
Excellent adventure, thank you for the pictures. Is it my imagination, or do you look a little thinner at the end (I'd insert a smiley face here if I knew how)?
 
Wow - breathtakingly beautiful even in pictures! It must have been the greatest experience to be there with your son in the middle of it all.
 
I visited the GC some 5 years ago while on the way from Sedona to Bryce then down to Vegas. The GC is AWESOME and pictures and videos do not do it justice. It is truly an American treasure.
 
Good trip! You both know what you are made of to be able to do that.

Quite a few years ago I went down the New Hance trail on the south rim to the Colorado and back after an overnight stay. My toes wore out the inside lining of my boots and a week or so later I lost most of my toenails.
 
yes, it was an experience of a lifetime

Had to laugh - my son, who is an Air Force pilot [he's a t-38 instructor right now at Laughlin AFB], called a coupe weeks before I left and asked if I had checked with my doctor before planning the trip!

[actually, I did mention it during my annual physical]

The side trip to clear creek was something of a calculated risk. It's a place I wanted to see, but we originally planned to do the hike in early May when the weather would have been much cooler but we couldn't get the necessary permit. The Clear Creek Trail is entirely south-facing and most guidebooks say that it is almost impassable during the summer months due to the heat.

But summer doesn't start til the solstice, right? Nevertheless I had set an upper bound on temperature for aborting that part of the trip. We also carried two gallons of water each just in case we ran into an unexpected difficulty. The little bit of risk - a snake bite or serious broken bone, etc would have posed a challenge to say the least - made the hike a bit more rewarding.

Yes, my belt remains one notch looser to this day. I did leave a bit of my lard in the canyon! That was a good thing!

Just when you're feeling pretty good about yourself someone always brings you down to earth. When we were descending the NOrth Kaibab we ran into a father and son hiking up. The son was probably just a little younger than me and the dad was in his seventies. They just had daypacks containing camelbacks, a bit of food, and walking sticks. They had left the southrim at 1:00 in the morning and were doing a rim to rim walk. Just as my son and I said "wow" the older fellow said "no, we're doing a "double" we're going to rest on the North Rim till evening and then do the hike back!"

They didn't look like they were hardly breaking a sweat.....

Actually, I think the hike can be done by just about anyone in reasonable health. It does require a bit of planning. We saw a quite a few people with not enough water or with poor shoes. We helped a woman who was losing her toenails - a pretty common occurance according to a ranger who we chatted with.

Looking forward to doing this again in ten years - this time with my grand kids!
 
Terrific report. Good for you guys! I hope I can remember to do something like that when my son graduates from HS. It would be a great time, if the old man can make it. :o
 
Those of you who appreciate a bit of dark humor might want to take a peek at a book, "Death in the Canyon." [iirc that's the title] My son bought a copy after we climbed out, Probably good that he got it after we finished, although we could have diverted to some interesting sights,

What it provides is an accounting of every recorded death in the canyon. Some are truly tragic - like the case of a young girl whose horse play was conducted just a bit too close to the edge.

Others demonstrate the efficacy of Darwin. A father who pretends to fall off the south rim, but miscalculates slightly and plunges 600 feet. His family was so used to his antics that they refused to believe that he fell at all. The miss set parking brake that resulted in a Thelma and Louise moment. The young fellow who headed into the canyon on a hot summer day with just two cokes. Rangers tossing bales of hay off the rim in an attempt to divine where a body might be.....

Although i often think that the Park Service is an outgrowth of the nanny state [ya gotta pack your used toilet paper out....] reading some of the stories of rangers risking life and limb to save pretty stupid people gave me new respect for the boys in brown.
 

What beautiful photographs. Is this a great country or what?
 

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