Grease for 1911
- Thread starter glag25
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If you are referring to a slightly heavier lube for the frame and slide rails, I use either Brownells Action Lube Plus, or Tetra Gun Grease. Tetra is not as much of a mess as the Brownells grease, which contains moly. (it's black)
Many members here prefer Lubriplate. (moly-lithium base)
A little goes a long way.
Many members here prefer Lubriplate. (moly-lithium base)
A little goes a long way.
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29aholic
Member
I am a long time believer in Super Lube. The heat range it is good for is very wide. It is a dielectric and can be found at most electrical supply places and sometimes Harbor Freight
cstep
Member
I use tw25b grease for the rails on all my 1911's. The tight as a drum Les Baer, the slightly less tight all stainless Dan wesson, and the fairly loose colt series 70 reissue. Works great on all of them.
I also use RIG.
Highhawk1948
Member
I use Gun Butter on my 1911.
Brian Enos (Google his forum) sells some of the slickest (literally) stuff I've ever seen. Pretty amazing stuff!
I use Lubriplate 105 assembly lube. You can find it at auto parts stores. It's cheap and a tube will last a long, long, time.
Maddog 521
Member
Another vote for Lubriplate.
Wee Hooker
Member
I found Wilson Combat Ultima-Lube II Universal Lube last year and have been very happy with it. It's thick enough to stay where you put it but thin enough to spread between tight fitting parts. It's all I use on slide to rail fit these days.
Flattop5
Member
I also use Lubriplate, which is what I was first trained to use while "vacationing" at Parris Island in 1965. It always works great. Recently I needed to order more and did not check the "quantity" closely enough at the Amazon website - 10 ounces for ~ $9.00. Now I have more than a lifetime supply!!
No matter what anyone else says, 1911s do have to be "greased" to run smoothly. I have never had a FTF or FTE with a lubed 1911. This is really important with these new alloys [includes stainless], especially those for which the slide is of a different material than the frame, as in "galling".
Lubriplate cleans up easily too after a trip to the range, or hunting, etc. Most of it comes off easily with just a rag or t-shirt, or old cloth diaper. I finish the job with low air pressure from my Porter Cable "Pancake" compressor.
Lubriplate also has many other uses around your home, your car, RV, etc., wherever a great, stable lubricant is required.
No matter what anyone else says, 1911s do have to be "greased" to run smoothly. I have never had a FTF or FTE with a lubed 1911. This is really important with these new alloys [includes stainless], especially those for which the slide is of a different material than the frame, as in "galling".
Lubriplate cleans up easily too after a trip to the range, or hunting, etc. Most of it comes off easily with just a rag or t-shirt, or old cloth diaper. I finish the job with low air pressure from my Porter Cable "Pancake" compressor.
Lubriplate also has many other uses around your home, your car, RV, etc., wherever a great, stable lubricant is required.
Mainsail
Member
The "best" is going to be DuPont Krytox but it ain't cheap.
I'm running it on my P229 Legion.
This article discusses galling and tests hundreds of oils and greases, and in the end most were pretty lousy, some worse than no lube at all. It's long but well worth the read: Why use only DuPont Teflon Bearing Grease?
I'm running it on my P229 Legion.
This article discusses galling and tests hundreds of oils and greases, and in the end most were pretty lousy, some worse than no lube at all. It's long but well worth the read: Why use only DuPont Teflon Bearing Grease?
I've used both Tetra and RIG.
Both work fine, and are less messy than running it suitably wet with gun oil.
There may well be slicker greases out there but it's a 1911, designed in 1911. It's not rocket science and it doesn't need a super lubricant.
Both work fine, and are less messy than running it suitably wet with gun oil.
There may well be slicker greases out there but it's a 1911, designed in 1911. It's not rocket science and it doesn't need a super lubricant.
Geronimo Jim
Member
Mobil 1 works ok for my car engine and guns.
G.T. Smith
US Veteran
I bought a can of Colts T6 grease. It seems to do a good job. I use it on the rails and a very light film on the end of the barrel where the bushing contacts it. Stays on good but I clean and re lube after shooting it anyway.
It smells like the machine shop my Dad worked at all his life. Brings back memories.
Peace,
Gordon
It smells like the machine shop my Dad worked at all his life. Brings back memories.
Peace,
Gordon
Flattop5
Member
Zebra War Wagon
Member
I have been using white lithium grease for decades on all my semis and the rails all look like new after many years of shooting. It's cheap and effective for my situation. I was always taught if it slides use grease, if it spins, use oil.
Mobil 1 is a synthetic oil which changes the miloques in the oil itself. Instead of being round like Dino Oil which leaves gaps on rounded parts the synthetic molocues are oblong in shape and are more resistant to heat breakdown in a engine. These two do not mix well to-gether at all. Its total overkill in a handgun for being a lubricant I did my thesis in 1981 on oils and oil additives for my Automotive engineering Degree. Yes it will also damage certain plastics such as found in some grips.
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N4KVE
Member
I use Tetra here in Florida. GARY
ParadiseRoad
Member
...the slide on mine was sticking bad...no gun oil...so I put a little olive oil on it...worked well...
just plain joe
Member
I use Slip2000 EWL30. I carried a Springfield Pro LR while on patrol as well as on a special weapons team. The weapon was exposed to both heat and cold while outside for hours on end. I had no failures with that weapons platform and lubricant. The EWL 30 is thicker and seems to stay put and not drain towards the muzzle when carried in a conventional holster. In cold weather, it did not slow down the slide velocity and cause malfunctions.
Not having experience with other lubricants, I'll stay in my lane and forego commenting. I do use lubricants and cleaners specifically formulated for firearms. Also, I have tried to stay away from petroleum based cleaners/lubes when possible. If you check there is normally a warning that continued contact with the chemicals used in these cleaners/lubes may cause cancer. In law enforcement we call this a "clue".
HTH.
Joe
Not having experience with other lubricants, I'll stay in my lane and forego commenting. I do use lubricants and cleaners specifically formulated for firearms. Also, I have tried to stay away from petroleum based cleaners/lubes when possible. If you check there is normally a warning that continued contact with the chemicals used in these cleaners/lubes may cause cancer. In law enforcement we call this a "clue".
HTH.
Joe
Flattop5
Member
Vegetable oils will eventually turn rancid. Use gun oil. Breakfree works well. For best results, wipe it on, don't squirt it on (that is too much at one time). For hidden places, use a needle point oiler filled with Breakfree.
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