Grease for 1911

ParadiseRoad said:
...the slide on mine was sticking bad...no gun oil...so I put a little olive oil on it...worked well...
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True story. Last week I was in my local pizza joint. The owner knows I work with the largest FFL in Florida, & do gun shows all over the state. He showed me a Glock that was bone dry. I couldn't leave it like that, so all he had was olive oil, & I lubed it with it. GARY
 
WHAT HE SAID!!!

Wee Hooker said:
I found Wilson Combat Ultima-Lube II Universal Lube last year and have been very happy with it. It's thick enough to stay where you put it but thin enough to spread between tight fitting parts. It's all I use on slide to rail fit these days.
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Why make do when you can use the best? (!!!)

And if you must use grease, they have that too----they even recommended it------about 20 years ago.

Ralph Tremaine
 
Lubrication threads are great!

I use... Mobil 28 aviation grease! Rated for -65ºF to 350ºF. Sticks where you put it. Works great. Cheap.

$17 for a 13.4 ounce tube... I put it in a small oral medicine syringe (bought on ebay) to apply to rails, locking block, barrel, etc.

Mobilgrease 28

One testimonial I can give it is this: My P239 has been greased with Mobil 28 on the barrel, locking lug, etc. And, after almost a year and couple of thousand rounds -- no smileys on the barrel.
 

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HCH said:
Might want to take a look at this article:
Lubrication 101: Gun oil, snake oil, and how to tell the difference. - [url]www.GrantCunningham.com www.GrantCunningham.com[/url]
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I agree with Grant Cunningham. What I use works extremely well. Castrol Braycote 803 Series High Vacuum Grease : Z05194 : SPI Supplies Little goes a long way. Expensive! Life time supply. Ran a DW Valor 2K rounds without cleaning during a class that I took. Not a hiccup.

Food grade is what I am trying now. Bio-Food Grade EP Grease Tried it several times and seems to work.

Amsoil makes a food grade which I will pick up a tube and give it a try. AMSOIL X-Treme Synthetic Food Grade Grease

Not sure if the food grade lubes will turn rancid in long term use. I will watch this.
 
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A couple years ago I needed to replace my empty can of Hoppe's gun oil. At a LGS found a can of Birchwood Casey synthetic gun oil for around $7. Works great.
 
Rotella synthetic, blue bottle. My goldwing takes a gallon, I pour the leftover in a quarter bottle. It is a vastly superior lubricant to the gun oils. The additive such as zinc etc in this package have to handle shear and stress loads that are beyond anything a firearm will ever encounter.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
 
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No grease for the 1911 guns here, thank you.

Many canvas U. S. Mint cent sacks-full of .45 handloads have been run through the 1911 guns here, including the Model 1911 Colt since 1978 and the Colt Gold Cup since 1981.

Singer Sewing Machine oil has kept them all lubricated with perfect satisfaction.
 
S&W Rover said:
Lubrication threads are great!

I use... Mobil 28 aviation grease! Rated for -65ºF to 350ºF. Sticks where you put it. Works great. Cheap.

$17 for a 13.4 ounce tube... I put it in a small oral medicine syringe (bought on ebay) to apply to rails, locking block, barrel, etc.

Mobilgrease 28

One testimonial I can give it is this: My P239 has been greased with Mobil 28 on the barrel, locking lug, etc. And, after almost a year and couple of thousand rounds -- no smileys on the barrel.
Click to expand...

I too like the Mobil 28. I used to get it from my mechanic that worked on the jet. When we closed the shop, I grabbed up an almost empty 5 pound can and cleaned it out. Works great on anything that needs to slide smoothly.
 
If you live in a cold climate, I would use caution, applying grease to the slide rails on a 1911, if it's a gun you rely on for self defense.

A few years ago, I was really into 1911's, and took a Dan Wesson 1911 out to the range. I applied 30w oil to the rails when it was just below 20 degrees. It was in the truck for several hours, and when I first started shooting, it was not reliable until it warmed up after about five shots. It was a tight gun, but had about 1500 rounds through it, and was 100% reliable in normal temperatures. So I imagine any kind of grease would have exacerbated the problem.
 
I had some Amsoil grease leftover in the grease gun, so I put a dab on a cotton swab and rubbed it lightly into the slide rails. Never been an issue on my wife's Ruger SR1911.
 
TAC said:
If you live in a cold climate, I would use caution, applying grease to the slide rails on a 1911, if it's a gun you rely on for self defense.

A few years ago, I was really into 1911's, and took a Dan Wesson 1911 out to the range. I applied 30w oil to the rails when it was just below 20 degrees. It was in the truck for several hours, and when I first started shooting, it was not reliable until it warmed up after about five shots. It was a tight gun, but had about 1500 rounds through it, and was 100% reliable in normal temperatures. So I imagine any kind of grease would have exacerbated the problem.
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This is a good observation for most grease types. You can test your pistol with grease in your freezer and then see how much resistance is experienced when racking the slide.

But extreme cold is where that Mobil 28 Aviation grease excels! It has an extreme temperature range (-65 to +350). It is engineered to work in those flaps, slats, etc., after they've been at 35,000 feet.

It is apparent from everyone's comments that a lot of different kinds of lubes will work and protect a pistol under most circumstances. Consider Mobil 28 Av Grease for extreme cold. The only thing that probably should never be used is WD-40!
 
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I also use Lubriplate, which is what I was first trained to use while "vacationing" at Parris Island in 1965.
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After Coast Guard Boot Camp in 1965 I went to work in our armory. We had over 1500 weapons from 22s to 50 cal. We used Lubriplate. I've used it since.
 
I agree as all Good lubricants will work well and make life easier for our toys.Just Clean, Lube them and shoot them is all.
 
Have used MPro-7 oil for several years now on all semi-automatics (including 1911s) and revolvers. Very good product.

During the Korean War - Chosin Reservoir Campaign - It was so cold that the Marines had to run all their weapons dry to help prevent freeze up. Occasionally they urinated on them to unfreeze them. That is cold!

Thanks to all our veterans for their service!!
 
My dad told me that during the Battle of the Bulge they put Vicks on their rifles as well as using lots of it for the intended purposes.
 
If synthetic oils are not good for firearms and can attack plastic parts, I wonder why Kimber strongly recommends Shooter's Choice FP-10, a synthetic lubricant, for their 1911s, some of which come with plastic grip panels. Having owned three Kimber 1911s (since replaced with S&Ws), I bought a large bottle of FP-10 and have used it for years on all my guns without any problems.

Ed
 
There are many different grades of synthetic lubricants on the market. Some of which are great for what we are doing with them. Its just knowing which is better then others to use for the best protection as possible. They are all a class of polymeers which basically is a liquid plastic. Some much better then others for the job intended.
 
bmcgilvray said:
No grease for the 1911 guns here, thank you.

Singer Sewing Machine oil has kept them all lubricated with perfect satisfaction.
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Bravo! When I think of grease, I think of axles, car chassis, farm tractors, practical jokes, etc., etc...not pistols, and especially not 1911s.
 
Usually the aroma of whale oil will put you completely off. It can be extremely strong in a nasty way.
 
BSeabrooke said:
I also use Lubriplate, which is what I was first trained to use while "vacationing" at Parris Island in 1965. It always works great. Recently I needed to order more and did not check the "quantity" closely enough at the Amazon website - 10 ounces for ~ $9.00. Now I have more than a lifetime supply!!

No matter what anyone else says, 1911s do have to be "greased" to run smoothly. I have never had a FTF or FTE with a lubed 1911. This is really important with these new alloys [includes stainless], especially those for which the slide is of a different material than the frame, as in "galling".

Lubriplate cleans up easily too after a trip to the range, or hunting, etc. Most of it comes off easily with just a rag or t-shirt, or old cloth diaper. I finish the job with low air pressure from my Porter Cable "Pancake" compressor.

Lubriplate also has many other uses around your home, your car, RV, etc., wherever a great, stable lubricant is required.
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It's what is recommended for use in M-1 Garands, by most knowledgeable "authorities". It's also what SIG ships it's new 1911's lubed with. No need to re-invent the wheel.
 
I am still using, and happy with, LSA. If I was planning on using the gun in cold weather I would clean it and apply just a tiny bit of RemOil. As a general rule I don't care much for grease on 1911s, but I have used Molysulfide grease when first "breaking in" a new pistol. After a couple applications I then change over to LSA.
 
The wrong oil is better than no oil.
That said I run Mill-Comm products in my 1911.
 
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