I still have the better part of a pint of GI bore cleaner, the white stuff that looks like milk. Probably dates back to Korea or maybe even earlier. Works great as a cleaner, I follow up with some oil and all my guns are happy.
Gunsmith says "stay away from CLP." Really?
- Thread starter LawDawg72
- Start date
italiansport
Member
I have been using what's handy for cleaners and lubricants for over 50 years. including the govt. surplus stuff.
All of my guns are still in good operating condition and I've never found are real difference in any of these products.
The ONE thing I never do is coat the exterior of my guns with any kind of oil since it attracts airborne particles.
Nuff said:
Jim
Autococker07
US Veteran
AS others have said, CLP is just fine, so is motor oil, lard, frog lube, etc etc..... they all have different strengths and weaknesses.
Breakfree did change the CLP formula a bit sometime in the last 10-20 years, I remember the older stuff being a bit more aggressive with carbon build up, etc.... the newer Breakfree CLP is more of a general oil. I still use it on some guns.
I have an aluminum framed ruger single six from 1957 that my dad bought brand new..... it has been used, lubed and stored in Hoppes #9 since new. It still looks new. I have had folks tell me hopes will eat aluminum also.... I just smile and say "bless your heart" LOL.
Everyone has their cleaning routine.... I use Hoppes for the big stuff, CLP as a general machine oil, and froglube on some newer plastic guns. I like all three.
Breakfree did change the CLP formula a bit sometime in the last 10-20 years, I remember the older stuff being a bit more aggressive with carbon build up, etc.... the newer Breakfree CLP is more of a general oil. I still use it on some guns.
I have an aluminum framed ruger single six from 1957 that my dad bought brand new..... it has been used, lubed and stored in Hoppes #9 since new. It still looks new. I have had folks tell me hopes will eat aluminum also.... I just smile and say "bless your heart" LOL.
Everyone has their cleaning routine.... I use Hoppes for the big stuff, CLP as a general machine oil, and froglube on some newer plastic guns. I like all three.
Gunslinger808
Member
CLP works great, but so do most other oils.
I mean, look at some of the pics of classic firearms that still look new, how did they ever stay that way without the latest and greatest one lube wonder?
It's more about a good regiment of preventive maintenance than the actual product used.
I mean, look at some of the pics of classic firearms that still look new, how did they ever stay that way without the latest and greatest one lube wonder?
It's more about a good regiment of preventive maintenance than the actual product used.
OP
LawDawg72
Member
Well, I was just wondering if I had goofed crossing over to CLP. Prior to that I was using Hoppes Elite which I thought worked pretty good too. I think the most important thing is to actually clean and perform proper maintenance. Brand loyalty to cleaning/lubricants are not as important. I have some of my grandfathers guns that are over 50 years old and he never used anything other than WD-40.
Rastoff
US Veteran
Both of these are examples of flawed logic. Just because someone finished last in their class doesn't mean they aren't good at what they do. Remember, Einstein dropped out of school at the age of 15.
Hogwash!!! Pure drivel. Just because you haven't seen something doesn't mean it doesn't exist. There are scads of scientific tests on cleaners, lubricants and protectors. There are many more "anecdotal" tests run by forum members from many boards. Here's one you should seriously look at: Results of gun care product evaluation | Mossberg Owners
People need to quit using the letters C-L-P when describing a product. I suspect that you mean Breakfree CLP when you say this, but we don't know because you haven't told us. CLP means Cleaner, Lubricant, Protectant. There are many companies that make CLPs. Frog Lube is one of them. Is that the product you've switched to?
Also, if your granddad has used WD-40 for decades, and his guns are all in good shape, why on God's green Earth would you change now? Isn't that enough test data for you?
Rastoff
US Veteran
Wow, I just read my last post. I need to take a break. I honestly didn't mean it to come off that harsh. Sorry fellas.
BigBill
Absent Comrade
I use the orginal USGI RIFLE BORE CLEANER on everything "but" my nickel guns. I use moly as the lube in everything. I use the USGI LIGHT WEAPONS OIL in my bores. Oil is for the bores to prevent freckling and rust it does nothing to prevent wear.
My ww 2 USGI RIFLE BORE CLEANER will eat the chrome off a trailer hitch. I have a case of it. This stuff has been used by for decades with shooting corrosive ammo. I never lost a barrel yet.
I used clp in my magazines.
My ww 2 USGI RIFLE BORE CLEANER will eat the chrome off a trailer hitch. I have a case of it. This stuff has been used by for decades with shooting corrosive ammo. I never lost a barrel yet.
I used clp in my magazines.
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BigBill
Absent Comrade
CAJUNLAWYER
Member
Kinda like the time I was discussing the merits of a Yeti vs an Igloo. My buddy was saying how the new $400 yeyi he had just bought was so much bettth than my beat up old Igloo (that costs $20). Told mt that it could keep Ice for 9 days vs only just two days for my Igloo. I told him that first off I ain't never been fishing for 9 whole days in a row before without coming ashore and that even if I'm out for three days, buying more ice was still cheaper than the Yeti 
I like using an old rag that is permeated with 3 and 1 to wipe down my guns. That and an old sheepskin pad that has God knows what kind of petroleum based lubricants imbedded into it over the years. I think that old rag and sheepskin are close to 20 years old and live their life in my ammo box between cleanings.
I like using an old rag that is permeated with 3 and 1 to wipe down my guns. That and an old sheepskin pad that has God knows what kind of petroleum based lubricants imbedded into it over the years. I think that old rag and sheepskin are close to 20 years old and live their life in my ammo box between cleanings.
OP
LawDawg72
Member
No prob. Yes, I'm using Break Free CLP. I didn't even think about clarifying that. It's the same brand the Gunsmith warned my friend against.
OP
LawDawg72
Member
Kinda like the time I was discussing the merits of a Yeti vs an Igloo. My buddy was saying how the new $400 yeyi he had just bought was so much bettth than my beat up old Igloo (that costs $20). Told mt that it could keep Ice for 9 days vs only just two days for my Igloo. I told him that first off I ain't never been fishing for 9 whole days in a row before without coming ashore and that even if I'm out for three days, buying more ice was still cheaper than the Yeti
I like using an old rag that is permeated with 3 and 1 to wipe down my guns. That and an old sheepskin pad that has God knows what kind of petroleum based lubricants imbedded into it over the years. I think that old rag and sheepskin are close to 20 years old and live their life in my ammo box between cleanings.
I prefer my cheap old worn out igloo too. If I spent that much money on a Yeti there'd be nothing left for beer. LOL
I'm 72 and I remember my grandpa using 3N1 on his guns and it is still what I use. Larry
Ed's Red, although I still have some VN era GI bore cleaner left from the two cases I bought about 25 years ago. Along with some surplus light oil that was 50 cents a gallon at the time.
Hot soapy water and dang near any oil you name will suffice in practice. I've seen a lot of really old guns. A few--very few--are ready for inspection. Most of the bad ones were killed by sheer neglect. Not much middle ground.
Thank God for noncorrosive priming. Not quite a cure for stupid, but it's a start.
Hot soapy water and dang near any oil you name will suffice in practice. I've seen a lot of really old guns. A few--very few--are ready for inspection. Most of the bad ones were killed by sheer neglect. Not much middle ground.
Thank God for noncorrosive priming. Not quite a cure for stupid, but it's a start.
No CLP? No way!
Had to do that......I use the Breakfree product on everything.....be careful with WD40, it can turn gummy on the Iinternals.
I have friends that exclusively use Mobil 1 Non Detergent stuff on their guns, and these are high speed, low drag, high volume shooters. I'm pretty much in the "use what you want" camp. I'm also in the low speed, high drag camp......
Had to do that......I use the Breakfree product on everything.....be careful with WD40, it can turn gummy on the Iinternals.
I have friends that exclusively use Mobil 1 Non Detergent stuff on their guns, and these are high speed, low drag, high volume shooters. I'm pretty much in the "use what you want" camp. I'm also in the low speed, high drag camp......
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Rastoff
US Veteran
Yep, that's what people on the internet will tell you. Interestingly though, no one can replicate this mysterious "gumminess" from WD-40. What WD-40 will do is react with other chemicals in adverse ways. Those that have gunk in their guns after using WD-40 probably didn't clean the other lubricant out before using WD-40.
I will say though, WD-40 is not a great lubricant. Spray some on, shoot a hundred rounds or so and then spray it again to clean it and you'll be fine. However, spray it on and then wait a week, shoot a hundred rounds, wait another week and shoot a hundred more. Then you'll be looking at some issues.
Fishslayer
US Veteran, Absent Comrade
Go hug a dog. It works wonders.
If I was limited to only Hoppes and CLP (Breakfree) I could undoubtedly get by but where's the fun in that? I have a shelf in my garage that looks like a massage parlor for firearms.
I don't have a study, I only know what I have seen, LONG before Uncle Al invented the interwebs. WD 40 was recommended and used almost exlusively by the WSP for their service weapons. In the mid/late 60s and early 70s there were a number of fail to fire/fail to funtion issues going on. Any time that happened the guns were shipped back to Fleet & Supply for repair. The gunsmiths came out with a directive to stop using WD 40 because it was turning to a gummy substance in the lockwork and causing the problems. I believed them, and still do. You want to use it, go ahead, I won't.
LVSteve
Member
I don't believe in ANY of the products that say they can do it all. I base this on my experience with milsurp rifles. A proper bore cleaner like Outer's Foaming or Sweets will get more stuff out of the bore than the makers of Hoppes or CLP ever knew existed. Sure, I use the more universal stuff as a lube and preservative, but as a bore cleaner, no way.
My favourite out of the list in that link, Eezox. Brings out blued guns really well IMHO.
My favourite out of the list in that link, Eezox. Brings out blued guns really well IMHO.
I think........
I think that there are more products/substances that make good gun cleaners than there are that are bad for guns. Avoid drain cleaners, strong acids, chlorine, mercury compounds, tar or ammonium phosphate. If you avoid these most everything else will work just fine.
Really, anything within reason that you've seen widely recommended on this site will do a good job.
I think that there are more products/substances that make good gun cleaners than there are that are bad for guns. Avoid drain cleaners, strong acids, chlorine, mercury compounds, tar or ammonium phosphate. If you avoid these most everything else will work just fine.
Really, anything within reason that you've seen widely recommended on this site will do a good job.
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