Hammer/firing pin problems Safety Hammerless

[Polyphemus]

Installed a new mainspring to my 4th model Safety Hammerless. The old spring was a Bubba special, cut down from a larger spring and shimmed in place with scrap metal. The Numrich spring seemed to have a slight reverse curve and was quite hard to get into place.

Attempting to cycle (dry fire) the gun, I find that the hammer doesn't rebound far enough for the pawl on the trigger to engage the hammer. A trigger pull moves the trigger less than a quarter inch, not enough to drop the cylinder stop.

I find that the firing pin has failed to rebound. I can break open the gun and push it back manually, after which the lock works for one pull: cylinder stop drops, hand rotates the cylinder, hammer drops.

Even after manual 'rebounding' the firing pin still protrudes a little, between 1/32 and 3/64 inch.

What do I need to do to get the rebound back to normal? Could the main spring be too stiff? I have the disassembly instructions from Chicoine's book.

 

[Polyphemus]

Installed a new mainspring to my 4th model Safety Hammerless. The old spring was a Bubba special, cut down from a larger spring and shimmed in place with scrap metal. The Numrich spring seemed to have a slight reverse curve and was quite hard to get into place.

Attempting to cycle (dry fire) the gun, I find that the hammer doesn't rebound far enough for the pawl on the trigger to engage the hammer. A trigger pull moves the trigger less than a quarter inch, not enough to drop the cylinder stop.

I find that the firing pin has failed to rebound. I can break open the gun and push it back manually, after which the lock works for one pull: cylinder stop drops, hand rotates the cylinder, hammer drops.

Even after manual 'rebounding' the firing pin still protrudes a little, between 1/32 and 3/64 inch.

What do I need to do to get the rebound back to normal? Could the main spring be too stiff? I have the disassembly instructions from Chicoine's book.

 

[rayj101]

Hi, Just a SWAG. Back off on the tensioning screw? Careful! The firing pin can bind and break when it is protruding as the cylinder is brought back to the closed position.

 

[Polyphemus]

Tension screw has no effect. Fortunatley, the pin doesn't stick out far enough to hit the cylinder.

Problem appears to lie in rebounding mechanism.

Thanks

 

[Polyphemus]

Bumping this again. I really need an answer. If my readers don't know, does anyone know of good information sources on 'smithing New Departures?

Thanks

 

[NKJ nut]

I am very fond of these revolvers. Unfortunately I can't tell you what is wrong.

David Chicoine is the expert on these old guns. His web site is oldwestgunsmith. I think. I am sure he can help you get your SH back going.

 

[mmaher94087]

Polyphemus,it sounds as if the rebound spring on the firing pin is broken. I've heard of people replacing the spring with one cut down from a ballpoint pen. I've never tried it. Your best advise is, as JKJ nut said, talk to Dave Chicoine. Mike

 

[Polyphemus]

Thanks all;

This puts me back to another question: what punch sizes do I need to disassemble the Safety Hammerless? There are some eensy-weensy pins, in several different eensy-weensy sizes here.

Thanks again

 

[mmaher94087]

Polyphemus, although I can't specifically answer your question because all my punches are packed for moving, I can say that Brownell's sells a punch kit that is ideal. The punches are hollow ground to fit the rounded pins. They are less likely to slip off the pin and mar the gun finish. They also do not flatten the end of the pins. Brownell's also makes short "starter" punches to start the pin moving. Mike